Xantrex/magnum inverter

I missed one item.

I have a trik-l-start between the "house" bank and the starter battery. This allows the solar panels to keep the starter battery in tip top shape.

Here is a picture of the led equipped (low amperage) switches:

rickhise wrote:
Thanks. I may have more questions This explanation looks quite thorough

Thanks. I may have more questions This explanation looks quite thorough

Hi,

I have four AGM 12 volt telecom jars.

Two are wired in a balanced manner and connect to a buss using a 1000 amp contacting switch.

The other two are wired through a second identical switch.



This allows me to charge one bank while using the other, or to strap them together, or to disconnect them entirely.

I use the connection to the inverter as the buss.

There is a third oem disconnect switch for the regular low amperage loads for the RV.

The solar charge controller has two 25 amp switches--one for each bank. Again that allows me to use one and charge the other, strap them together, or turn them off entirely. The switches have led lights built in to let me know visually if they are on or off. The charge wires go directly to the battery bank from the output of the solenoids.

The alternator charging path again has two separate paths, one of which is OEM and the other with #8 wire, with isolated relays rated at 100 amps each. I replaced the OEM 60 amp fuse with 50 amp automatic circuit breaker. I added a 2nd automatic circuit breaker to the "add on" charging path. I have manual control of each solenoid with a 2nd pair of led switches. The charging wires go directly to the battery banks. I monitor the charging using a hall effect digital meter. It shows a negative when the "house" bank is sending energy to the alternator.

rickhise wrote:
I need to a find out how you split the banks
and charge individual banks interested!
any interest in sending me those details

Diagram I could provide to my engineer
Thanks

Airdaile wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

jplante4 wrote:
If you do do Magnum, be sure to get the remote panel. Having a remote panel increases the warranty from 2 to 5 years.

Where did you get this fact? This is Magnums warranty. And, WHY would having a remote more than double the warranty? Doug

I sent my 4 year old Magnum to the factory to be repaired and they didn't charge me anything. I investigated it at the time this was the policy.

Why would I make it up?

click

You need to clarify what you think you know. The Remote panel you relate too is NOT the regular RV remote panel. You just stated get the Remote panel. The required panel is the MMP or MP panel for the 5 year warranty. I have NEVER seen that panel and can gurantee it is not in any OEM RV below 1 Million dollars

Just talked to Magnum and that panel is not called a remote panel but a BOX panel. Magnum also stated that it is not warrantied in a RV mobile install. Only for Home or business use only and that will carry the warranty.

I am MOST interested in products that in fact need a warranty. The epitome of the "Best Warranty"

LIFETIME WARRANTY

Exchanged 6 times in 5 years. 2-times while on vacation, both were two hundred dollar tow jobs off the freeway. One time in a remote national park by a company that does not accept insurance ($375) the second time it took five days for a truck to arrive. Another time the parts store was out of stock

OR....

No warranty and six years of trouble-free service just like the new factory starter.


One of these scenarios will appeal to the person who drives 15 miles across town to save twenty five cents per gallon on gasoline.

Their inverters cost more, but Outback has unrivaled history of fewest warranty claims. My 1993 2500 SB Trace inverter sort of reassures me I chose wisely over Trace's competition. And outback was the destination for Trace's top engineers when they learned that XANTREX bought out Trace. They fled in droves. Xantrex downgraded Trace's FETs and transformer's to Junk status, to save a few dollars.

My Samlex is heavy and trouble free doing very occasional work.

It took me twenty six dollars to upgrade my Megawatt to the point where I can SHORT CIRCUIT the output leads and eventually the 1200 watts of input circuit board fuse fails. My least concern is that I damaged something.

Concentrate only on price and warranty and lose your hind end, part of both legs and most of your colon.

I need to a find out how you split the banks
and charge individual banks interested!
any interest in sending me those details

Diagram I could provide to my engineer
Thanks

MrWizard wrote:
could be he is using the 12vDC generator plug
instead of shore cord and converter ?

I have the remote panel and I chose the amount of Amps to put back
In I thought by reducing the amount of amperage I recharge
Was better than high recharge amperage?

The Honda 2000 will handle about 10 amps while running the
boat too. Frig lights tv etc

On shorepowet I can select a lot higher amperage
thought that would shorten the life of the batts?
Thanks

For AGMs to "live long and prosper" you need to be able to charge at 0.2 C. I.e. 20 amps per 100 amps of storage. I get around this 'feature' by having dual twin banks so I can charge one at a time.

rickhise wrote:
If I go back with 8- 6 volt AGM’s
With a 2500 inverter/charger

What size batt would you recommend

500 amp/hrs minimum. Heavy use would be more. 3000 watts I would be at 24 volt battery and 400 amp/hrs.

As for charging I would get something that will about max out the little Honda. 1000 ~ 35 amps, 2000 ~ 70 amps. You need 120+ amps when utility power is available.