Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

Can't say about reliability. New design of the charger. Interesting features. Very expensive!

IMO choice is automatic TC2 for twice the money as manual adjustable voltage PowerMax.. With the manual adjust, you are your own temperature compensator--Eg at 40F, I set 15.2 instead of 14.8 volts.

Xantrex in general has been getting a bad rep lately... at least with the inverters. I understand the TC2 runs the fan continuous and could be annoying depending on placement.

Consider a PD9260 14.8 for those GC2.

http://www.bestconverter.com/9200-148-Modified-Deck-Mount

time2roll wrote:
Xantrex in general has been getting a bad rep lately... at least with the inverters. I understand the TC2 runs the fan continuous and could be annoying depending on placement.

I think that is from the previous generation of Xantrex products, where people could not get technical support anymore and all that.

ISTR in the last year or so, people on here report they do get technical support and there is a new generation of products. So maybe they got a new boss or whatever.

jseyfert3 wrote:
As I understand, this means take to 14.4 volts (bulk), hold at 14.4 V until the current drops to small percent of capacity (absorption).

Note Trojan really calls for 14.8 volt absorption. 14.4 may require more frequent equalization. And equalization at 16 volts should be done with the RV disconnected as you are above voltage spec on some control boards.

http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/battery-chargers/truecharge-2-2.aspx

I don't understand the charging percent display. Why not just put in a straight ammeter instead of this?

If the batteries want to get down to 2 amps to be full, that is 5% of the 40 amper, but 5% of the 60 amper is 3 amps.

Also, AGMs want to get down to 0.5a/100AH so 5% of whatever isn't going to work. You want to see the actual amps, and have control over the drop to Float voltage. Auto drop at 5% would leave your AGMs undercharged every time.

time2roll wrote:

jseyfert3 wrote:
As I understand, this means take to 14.4 volts (bulk), hold at 14.4 V until the current drops to small percent of capacity (absorption).

Note Trojan really calls for 14.8 volt absorption. 14.4 may require more frequent equalization. And equalization at 16 volts should be done with the RV disconnected as you are above voltage spec on some control boards.

Yeah. I actually originally had a super long post, that I really, really simplified as it was an absolute wall of text and not conducive to my main question of reliability of the TrueCharge2. In there, I stated that technically, Trojan specifies a charge current of 10-13% of C20 until the voltage is at 14.7 volts, then hold that voltage until the current drops to 1-3% of C20, then hold that current until the voltage climbs to 14.82 V. That is the Trojan specified way to charge the T-105 to my understanding, but you're going to need a really fancy charger to do that automatically or you'll need a CV/CC power supply and monitor to do it manually. The equalization should also be 16.2 volts, not 16.

I emailed Trojan about 14.4 vs 14.82 and they said it would just affect how long it took to charge the battery. Not certain how true that is one way or another.

time2roll wrote:
Xantrex in general has been getting a bad rep lately... at least with the inverters. I understand the TC2 runs the fan continuous and could be annoying depending on placement.

Consider a PD9260 14.8 for those GC2.

http://www.bestconverter.com/9200-148-Modified-Deck-Mount

Hmm. Didn't realize PD had one specifically for Trojan. Unfortunately, PD isn't temp compensated and doesn't have an equalization mode.

BFL13 wrote:
http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/battery-chargers/truecharge-2-2.aspx

I don't understand the charging percent display. Why not just put in a straight ammeter instead of this?

If the batteries want to get down to 2 amps to be full, that is 5% of the 40 amper, but 5% of the 60 amper is 3 amps.

Also, AGMs want to get down to 0.5a/100AH so 5% of whatever isn't going to work. You want to see the actual amps, and have control over the drop to Float voltage. Auto drop at 5% would leave your AGMs undercharged every time.

Yeah. This is somewhere that Xantrex got so close, yet not quite there. If you dig into it, they say that the charger can do a custom charge profile, but they only allow OEMs to program a custom charge profile. Unfortunate, as allowing the end user could do that would allow setting the complete three step charge to 14.82 V that Trojan outlines (see top of this message), set the current at which charge stops, perhaps even set max charge rate so you could have a 60 amp but only charge at 45 if you wanted. If only they sold that tool to program the charger...

One thing I mentioned is I don't plan on replacing the stock converter. I plan on keeping that to power the DC while on shore power, and use automatic disconnects so it doesn't charge the batteries normally. The TrueCharge or other charger would only be used to recharge after a dry camping trip (usually after we get home), or to equalize. Depending on where we camp and what is allowed, it might also be used to recharge off a generator in the middle of a week long dry camping trip.

For $124 you can do it all and do it right instead of not quite all, not quite right for over twice that money.

Easy to use as a portable charger by cutting the end off a set of jumper cables to clamp on with.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-60lk-12-volts-60-amp-power-converter-battery-charger-w-led-light

Two 105s can take 70 amps but a 2000w gen will struggle with that many amps so go with the 60. (That Trojan 10-13% is for when on shore power and gen time not a problem. Off-grid you do 50-90s and at max amps the batts can take and what the gen can run, whichever limit comes first)

Yes for a temporary connection to service as needed I agree with BFL's solution.
I would not use TC2 as a portable.

With the money you save consider 200 watts solar on the roof.

BFL13 wrote:
For $124 you can do it all and do it right instead of not quite all, not quite right for over twice that money.

Easy to use as a portable charger by cutting the end off a set of jumper cables to clamp on with.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-60lk-12-volts-60-amp-power-converter-battery-charger-w-led-light

Two 105s can take 70 amps but a 2000w gen will struggle with that many amps so go with the 60. (That Trojan 10-13% is for when on shore power and gen time not a problem. Off-grid you do 50-90s and at max amps the batts can take and what the gen can run, whichever limit comes first)

I see. I misread your first reply in this thread. You're saying save my money, get the powermax and a cheap thermometer, and just adjust the output voltage manually, especially as I will only be using it to charge the batteries together. That makes sense, then I can charge to the full 14.82 (at 70 °F) voltage Trojan specs instead of 14.4 volts.

I'd probably not use as a portable, but instead mount inside one of the front outside storage compartments in my camper, with disconnect switches to connect and disconnect it.

I like it. This is why I like forums, you can get great ideas from other people! :)

Is the 10-13% just better on the batteries than high current? Or what would be the reason they specify 10-13%? We likely won't be using a generator a lot, but the quicker it charges at home after a trip the nicer as well, since we have to keep it at home till it charges then take it to a storage lot. Majority of our trips are weekend.

EDIT: Also forgot to add I have a Honda eu2200i, so I'm good for 1800 watts continuous on the occasions I do use a generator.

time2roll wrote:
Yes for a temporary connection to service as needed I agree with BFL's solution.
I would not use TC2 as a portable.

With the money you save consider 200 watts solar on the roof.

Not a bad idea. I've thought about some solar. We don't typically do much dry camping, but with the batteries it will sure make it easier, and solar even more so. Here in Wisconsin we typically do state parks (though I should look for other ways to camp too), which don't allow generators. Well, at least technically. I saw a bunch of Hondas at a state park the other weekend where it was cloudy and rainy at 45 in the day and 32 at night.