2013 F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 problems

[FloridaReLoaded]

I have a Ford F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 engine with 55,000 miles that is junk! First of all it just stalls without warning in the middle of freeway, highway, road, parking lot wherever it feels like it with out any warning anytime which make it very dangerous. I have a screen comes up with a large wrench on it but no check engine light. You have to come to a complete stop, put it in Park and start it back up, runs fine for a day or two or maybe just an hour, it varies. I took it to the dealership and they ran a diagnosis on it and nothing came up. They ran a history on it and still nothing. It's not under warranty anymore, they said its probably the fuel throttle body but without a code showing it could be several different things. Going back tomorrow spending 400.00 dollars hoping it fixes it.


Oh also the serviceman drove it to see if he could get the light to come back on, when he came back hes like, you don't feel that shaking when you apply the brakes? I'm like yeah but right now I'm just trying to keep it running not worried about stopping. He then said that my rotors were warped and more than likely will have to be replaced. He then asked me if I towed a travel trailer and told him a lite one and he said there's your problem. I'm like what? he said we've had several come in that had to be replaced caused they were warped. I'm like well what good is a tow package and a heavy payload package if it's going to warp the rotors? He just shrugged his shoulders.

What ya'll think? anyone else out there with this problem, I'm surprised no one has gotten killed from it just stalling like that, oh it goes into a limp mode but it want go, it just lets you turn and apply the brakes. very dangerous!!

[atwowheelguy]

'13 3.5 EB with 99,600 miles, purchased new.

Front rotors turned once and then replaced once.
Front and rear brake pads replaced.
One boost sensor replaced. CEL came on, but it was still running with no problem.
One windshield wiper switch replaced. It wouldn't turn off.
Oil and oil filter changed every 5,000 miles.

Anti lock brakes activated once when towing a 6700 lb. camper and stopping quickly from 55 mph for a traffic light change. Discovered that the trailer brakes needed adjustment.

No engine performance issues, ever. It just pulls the camper strongly and quietly. I've been eyeing a new 10 speed, but I can't come up with any reason to trade.

[Flapper]

Late to this topic - rv.net wouldn't let me reply a couple of days ago....

"The Wrench" - A couple of years ago, had the problem towing our Jayco fifth while on the way to Mobile, AL. After a whole day at the dealer there, it was found to be a cracked electrical connector. The only good news, because it knocked out the turbos, I was getting near 40 mpg on highway (not towing). Of course, it took a loooong time to get up to speed, but.....

Last summer, started to get the occasional wrench as described above. No codes, ever. Dealer said while they could not guarantee that it was the needed fix, they replaced the throttle body. Trouble free for the last 11,000 miles.

Trailer controller - the factory one moderates the braking force based on speed, making it hard to conventionally test. If you are going slow, it doesn't brake as hard as it does if you were going faster. Ford's attempt at sort-of ABS for trailers.
Others have reported that poor trailer braking is more usually due to trailer brakes not fully adjusted. If you have self adjusting it can take many, many repeated stops before they fully self adjust.
A rough test, with everything stopped, is to pull the emergency braking pin, then try to pull the trailer - wheels should remain locked up.

[transamz9]

Camper G wrote:
A lot of new rotors these days cannot be turned as in years past unfortunately. The rotors are not made as thick and can't be turned many times and still be above minimum thickness.

Also, often times (especially on cars) the rotors can be bought about as cheap.

[Camper_G]

A lot of new rotors these days cannot be turned as in years past unfortunately. The rotors are not made as thick and can't be turned many times and still be above minimum thickness.

[rowekmr]

I keep and occasionally drive my FIL F150 Ecoboost. Haven't read much up on them so thought they had a good reputation.
His only has 35K miles on it and the brakes also seem not right. They are sometimes grabby and only a few times I have noticed the pedal pulsating when stopping. Lately after letting it sit for awhile they don't stop as well at idle almost like the ABS is coming on. I guess it is time to replace all pads/rotors now.

Dave H M I can't find a local place to turn rotors it's like a lost art now, most places just replace the rotors. I like you rather keep them especially if they are factory ones and in spec. Some of the parts store rotors to me don't seem to be as high a quality metal as factory ones. Our local climate tends to put light haze of corrosion on them after a few days of rain/sitting. I haven't noticed that on factory rotors.

[Dave_H_M]

I am not a throw new rotors at guy. If the rotors need turning why not turn them. Those babies have been toasted and maybe picked up the final warp which can be taken care of with turning as long as the rotor thickness meets spec when done.

[brulaz]

Loved my 2011 Ecoboost. But it does have weak engine braking.

After many steep descents in the mountains and at least one severe over-heating of both the trailer and truck's brakes, they started to vibrate. So front rotors were replaced at 75K kms.

I never got the brakes to lock up on pavement with the OEM brake controller. But did on gravel. And I never really hit brakes that hard as I didn't want everything in the trailer to fly around. Still, the trailer brakes certainly dragged the truck quickly to a stop.

[AlmostAnOldGuy]

Regarding the integrated trailer brake controller...

Per the manual they say to adjust to where you can lockup the trailer brakes by manually throwing the controller to max brakes. I forgot the exact mph, 10 or so. I have no problem locking up the brakes on my tandem axle unloaded at about 7k.

I would check the trailer brakes. You can also check the voltage recorded at the connector. I am not sure what the expected voltage would be, maybe 10 volts. Per eTrailer they just indicate the circuit tester light is bright.

Good luck,
Stu

[Learjet]

so you had a problem and got it fixed...I guess it is NOT Junk...LOL

[patperry2766]

FloridaReLoaded wrote:

AlmostAnOldGuy wrote:
Your rotors should not warp, maybe the trailer brakes are not doing their share of the work. Do you have the integrated brake controller? If you do go ahead and reset the brake controller setting as described in the manual and you should be good.

Good luck,
Stu

Okay they replaced the throttle body and it appears to have fixed it. Thought about trading it in but after looking around it seems as tho they just don't make trucks like they used too. So I'm thinking of just keeping this one and hoping and praying for the best.

Now to my warped rotors, first of all I do have the integrated brake controller and I have it turned up to the max setting of 10. Ive had others brake controllers on previous rigs so I know how they are supposed to work but this one is NOT making the trailer do it's share of the stopping. With the controller set on 10 (max) doing 25 mph and sliding all the way over it just slows the trailer down. It does NOT lock up the trailer wheels like it supposed to. Now the trailer is only a year old so its basically still pretty new. But is my problem with the travel trailer brakes or with the integrated brake controller?

And thirdly, since Ive already been told that both the rotors and brake pads will more than likely have to be replaced, will it hurt it to continue driving it like it is. The shaking to me when applying the brakes is bearable.

thank you

I had to replace the rotors/brakes on my 2013 F-150. I did the work myself for about $200. Advance Auto Parts has a 25% off coupon on the website. If you do decide to do it, there is a special size allen wrench that you will need.

[tragusa3]

My brake controller does the same. I believe, like Grit dog, they are tied to the computer in some fashion that keeps things from locking. I don't like it.

I have great confidence in my truck, after I've towed cross country a few times. But stories like yours do put that hair of doubt in ones mind.

[Grit_dog]

Hope they got er fixed this time. Trading is not a great option IMO. Eco boosts are dime a dozen and that won't help your trade in value.
If it doesn't do it for a while you're probably set.
Regarding trailer brakes, the newer integrated brake controllers are somewhat linked into the vehicle's nanny systems. I can't lock the trailer wheels on multiple trailers with multiple newer trucks of all 3 flavors, but my old Dodge with an old school Tekonsha brake controller will lock em up hard if I push the lever.
But unless you have something to compare to, either another truck or trailer, it may be the trailer brakes are glazed, out of adjustment, grease on them etc.

For your truck, it's likely just front rotors. Bad rotors drive me nuts and they'd be in the recycling bin yesterday if it was my truck. New pads and rotors are a simple and relatively cheap repair. Can be done in your driveway with even the most basic tools and spare tire Jack if you have to.

[FloridaReLoaded]

AlmostAnOldGuy wrote:
Your rotors should not warp, maybe the trailer brakes are not doing their share of the work. Do you have the integrated brake controller? If you do go ahead and reset the brake controller setting as described in the manual and you should be good.

Good luck,
Stu

Okay they replaced the throttle body and it appears to have fixed it. Thought about trading it in but after looking around it seems as tho they just don't make trucks like they used too. So I'm thinking of just keeping this one and hoping and praying for the best.

Now to my warped rotors, first of all I do have the integrated brake controller and I have it turned up to the max setting of 10. Ive had others brake controllers on previous rigs so I know how they are supposed to work but this one is NOT making the trailer do it's share of the stopping. With the controller set on 10 (max) doing 25 mph and sliding all the way over it just slows the trailer down. It does NOT lock up the trailer wheels like it supposed to. Now the trailer is only a year old so its basically still pretty new. But is my problem with the travel trailer brakes or with the integrated brake controller?

And thirdly, since Ive already been told that both the rotors and brake pads will more than likely have to be replaced, will it hurt it to continue driving it like it is. The shaking to me when applying the brakes is bearable.

thank you

[GottaRunGottaCa]

I can't comment on the engine problem, mine is a 2014 at 71,000 and still running good.
Now about the rotors, out of the 71,000 miles I have towed a 6' x 10' enclosed trailer with no brakes about 15,000 miles and most of the towing miles were put on when the truck was fairly new, and I just replace my rotors, I should have done it about 20,000 miles ago.
Good Luck with your engine problem.