I have a 2015 AF 990. I am wondering if anyone knows if the hole for the running light wires have been caulked. Also I have noticed they don't caulk the bottom of the running lights, just the top & sides. Seems like in a rain storm that water would be pushed up there while going down the road. Appreciate any input.Big Rig (John)

The wire holes are opened holes. I would run a bead of caulk around the entire light. You should have LEDs on that unit since its new, so they are sealed lights, but I would want caulk around the whole light. I used Proflex when I installed my LED marker lights. My AF is a 2010 and back then they still used the old style lights that were notorious for leaking.

Leave the bottom open so any moisture that finds its way into the light has a chance to drain out. Water doesn't flow uphill very well...

Water does flow uphill. The OP was talking about running lights on the nose cap of a TC. I would seal the entire light. I also use pro-flex.

Look at my thread on rebuilding my 811 nose because of the running lights leaking. The pressure on the front of your camper at 60 mph is tremendous. In a rain, it will push the water in any availiable opening. I am removing the 2 center lights, because I will be replacing the Filon, and changing all running lights with led. Caulk and check every 6 months, park in a shelter if possible.

I had a slow leaking running light on my pop-up camper and the strip of OSB board behind the light got wet sufficient enough times to become punky. My solution was to slowly soak the OSB with craze glue until it became saturated but not drip and let it harden to become strong again. Then I used Proflex all around them to make sure they did not leak again.

2015 AF 990, Do I need to re-caulk the running lights?

trail-explorer
Explorer
May 09, 2016
Big Rig wrote:
OK, I guess the verdict is in. I popped the lens today & all looks well there. I decided to caulk the bottom & not remove the fixture to see if it is caulked where the wire comes thru.

The lights will have a strip of Butyl putty behind them. That stuff lasts seemingly forever. Keep the perimeter sealed with Pro-Flex or Sikaflex and you are good.

These are the OEM Lights that AF uses: http://www.ledtrailerlights.com/cm-mcl32.htm
Big_Rig1
Explorer
Jul 08, 2015
OK, I guess the verdict is in. I popped the lens today & all looks well there. I decided to caulk the bottom & not remove the fixture to see if it is caulked where the wire comes thru. I don't want to disturb the existing caulking. When a time comes to re-do all the caulking around the running lights, I will then remove all the caulk & the lights to check the wires coming thru to the outside to see if the holes are caulked. A Big Thanks for all the comments.

Big Rig (John)
GeoBoy
Explorer
Jul 06, 2015
deltabravo wrote:
GeoBoy wrote:
Geogel.

Geogel=Proflex (made by Geocel)

It works, but it turns rock hard after a few years.

Did I do that or was it my iPad? Anywho yes Proflex.
deltabravo
Nomad
Jul 05, 2015
GeoBoy wrote:
Geogel.

Geogel=Proflex (made by Geocel)

It works, but it turns rock hard after a few years.
GeoBoy
Explorer
Jul 04, 2015
If you look at the light base AF uses butyl tape under the light base and only seal the top and sides with Geocel. If you are worried that water will enter the weep holes then pop the lens off and look to see if water can enter thru the power wires. If yes then seal the inside where the wires are.
trail-explorer
Explorer
Jul 03, 2015
Proflex or Sikaflex works well. I haven't had good luck with "silicone". It peels off on its own after a while.
bighatnohorse
Explorer II
Jul 03, 2015
wcjeep wrote:
Arctic Fox theory is the unsealed bottom allows water to drain. When I converted to Led I completely sealed the lights.

When I had my old Eagle Cap I drilled a weep hole in the bottom of the lens cap.
It does drain - never had a moisture problem there after that.

When first I got the Arctic Fox I silicon sealed the top and sides of the lens caps.
There's no moisture inside (going on five years now).
wcjeep
Explorer
Jul 03, 2015
Arctic Fox theory is the unsealed bottom allows water to drain. When I converted to Led I completely sealed the lights.
kerry4951
Explorer
Jul 03, 2015
If you look you will notice that your outside bay doors are done the same way. They run an exterior bead of caulk along the top and down the sides a few inches. One of the first things I did is complete the bead of Proflex caulk around the entire 4 edges of each frame.
Just think.... a half tube of caulk and and little more time and the factory could do that!!
trail-explorer
Explorer
Jul 03, 2015
Yes, I would seal all around the lights. I am so OCD about leaks, I'd probably even pull the mounting screws out and put a dollop of butyl rubber putty in there.