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2015 AF 990, Do I need to re-caulk the running lights?

Big_Rig1
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2015 AF 990. I am wondering if anyone knows if the hole for the running light wires have been caulked. Also I have noticed they don't caulk the bottom of the running lights, just the top & sides. Seems like in a rain storm that water would be pushed up there while going down the road. Appreciate any input.

Big Rig (John)
04.5 Dodge Quad,3500,CTD,DRW,4X2,48RE, Ranchos, Tatman Wedgies
2015 Arctic Fox 990, 100W solar, power rear awning, Fox Landing, no generator, no oven
15 REPLIES 15

trail-explorer
Explorer
Explorer
Big Rig wrote:
OK, I guess the verdict is in. I popped the lens today & all looks well there. I decided to caulk the bottom & not remove the fixture to see if it is caulked where the wire comes thru.


The lights will have a strip of Butyl putty behind them. That stuff lasts seemingly forever. Keep the perimeter sealed with Pro-Flex or Sikaflex and you are good.

These are the OEM Lights that AF uses: http://www.ledtrailerlights.com/cm-mcl32.htm
Bob

Big_Rig1
Explorer
Explorer
OK, I guess the verdict is in. I popped the lens today & all looks well there. I decided to caulk the bottom & not remove the fixture to see if it is caulked where the wire comes thru. I don't want to disturb the existing caulking. When a time comes to re-do all the caulking around the running lights, I will then remove all the caulk & the lights to check the wires coming thru to the outside to see if the holes are caulked. A Big Thanks for all the comments.

Big Rig (John)
04.5 Dodge Quad,3500,CTD,DRW,4X2,48RE, Ranchos, Tatman Wedgies
2015 Arctic Fox 990, 100W solar, power rear awning, Fox Landing, no generator, no oven

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
deltabravo wrote:
GeoBoy wrote:
Geogel.


Geogel=Proflex (made by Geocel)

It works, but it turns rock hard after a few years.

Did I do that or was it my iPad? Anywho yes Proflex.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
GeoBoy wrote:
Geogel.


Geogel=Proflex (made by Geocel)

It works, but it turns rock hard after a few years.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
If you look at the light base AF uses butyl tape under the light base and only seal the top and sides with Geocel. If you are worried that water will enter the weep holes then pop the lens off and look to see if water can enter thru the power wires. If yes then seal the inside where the wires are.

trail-explorer
Explorer
Explorer
Proflex or Sikaflex works well. I haven't had good luck with "silicone". It peels off on its own after a while.
Bob

bighatnohorse
Explorer II
Explorer II
wcjeep wrote:
Arctic Fox theory is the unsealed bottom allows water to drain. When I converted to Led I completely sealed the lights.

When I had my old Eagle Cap I drilled a weep hole in the bottom of the lens cap.
It does drain - never had a moisture problem there after that.

When first I got the Arctic Fox I silicon sealed the top and sides of the lens caps.
There's no moisture inside (going on five years now).
2021 Arctic Fox 1150
'15 F350 6.7 diesel dually long bed
Eagle Cap Owners
“The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity."
-Yeats

wcjeep
Explorer
Explorer
Arctic Fox theory is the unsealed bottom allows water to drain. When I converted to Led I completely sealed the lights.

kerry4951
Explorer
Explorer
If you look you will notice that your outside bay doors are done the same way. They run an exterior bead of caulk along the top and down the sides a few inches. One of the first things I did is complete the bead of Proflex caulk around the entire 4 edges of each frame.
Just think.... a half tube of caulk and and little more time and the factory could do that!!
2009 Silverado 3500 dually D/A, Supersprings, Stable Loads, Bilsteins, Hellwig Sway Bar.
2010 Arctic Fox 1140 DB, 220 watts solar, custom 4 in 1 "U" shaped dinette/couch, baseboard and Cat 3 heat, 2nd dinette TV, cabover headboard storage, 67 TC mods

trail-explorer
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, I would seal all around the lights. I am so OCD about leaks, I'd probably even pull the mounting screws out and put a dollop of butyl rubber putty in there.
Bob

Christl
Explorer
Explorer
I had a slow leaking running light on my pop-up camper and the strip of OSB board behind the light got wet sufficient enough times to become punky. My solution was to slowly soak the OSB with craze glue until it became saturated but not drip and let it harden to become strong again. Then I used Proflex all around them to make sure they did not leak again.

Jeepers92
Explorer
Explorer
Look at my thread on rebuilding my 811 nose because of the running lights leaking. The pressure on the front of your camper at 60 mph is tremendous. In a rain, it will push the water in any availiable opening. I am removing the 2 center lights, because I will be replacing the Filon, and changing all running lights with led. Caulk and check every 6 months, park in a shelter if possible.
B.Pettitt
Dodge, lwb, drw, 6.7, no mods
Arctic Fox 811
22' SunChaser fishing pontoon
04 Wrangler for mountian roads

Vietnam Vet...and proud of it

Old_Days
Explorer II
Explorer II
Water does flow uphill. The OP was talking about running lights on the nose cap of a TC. I would seal the entire light. I also use pro-flex.

Dick_B
Explorer
Explorer
Leave the bottom open so any moisture that finds its way into the light has a chance to drain out. Water doesn't flow uphill very well...
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)