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30A Surge Protector Recommendations

Surgtech94
Explorer
Explorer
Looking for recommendations for a 30A Surge Protector for our 2020 25 foot KZ Connect . Thank you in advance
21 REPLIES 21

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Boomerweps wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.

As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get.


There were NO switches on the remote display whenever I bought my EMS. I’ll have to contact PI to see if the new remote is usable with my unit. IIRC, at the time I bought & 1st used my EMS, you could separately purchase the remote display later for near twice the additional cost buying it with the EMS.

I bought my PI EMS HW30C in 2008 with the remote pendant. It has the switch. Your PI must be really old, because mine is 14 years old. Here is a photograph of my pendant (note the lower left corner of the pendant):



My PI HWC30 is about 4 years old.
If you have the remote display, you do not have a local, on unit display. I have the display on the main unit. My display plugs into where the remote display plug would. I did find a remote bypass switch accessory compatible with my unit for $24, due in tomorrow. No remote display is available with my original unit. Might be able to McGuyver one but not worth the cost & effort to me. I keep a cheap plug in volt meter in my kitchen outlet for quick monitoring, reads about a volt low compared to the EMS.
Yes, I regret not ponying up the extra for the remote display ;(

You and I have different models. I have the EMS-HW30C, which has the remote pendant/bypass switch. You have the EMS-LCHW30. You just opted to buy the unit without the remote pendant. That doesn't mean that PI didn't offer a unit with the remote pendant/bypass switch.

When you posted "I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it," I misinterpreted it as you were claiming PI didn't make a bypass switch. I didn't realize that you were acknowledging that you merely chose not to buy it.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Boomerweps
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.

As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get.


There were NO switches on the remote display whenever I bought my EMS. I’ll have to contact PI to see if the new remote is usable with my unit. IIRC, at the time I bought & 1st used my EMS, you could separately purchase the remote display later for near twice the additional cost buying it with the EMS.

I bought my PI EMS HW30C in 2008 with the remote pendant. It has the switch. Your PI must be really old, because mine is 14 years old. Here is a photograph of my pendant (note the lower left corner of the pendant):



My PI HWC30 is about 4 years old.
If you have the remote display, you do not have a local, on unit display. I have the display on the main unit. My display plugs into where the remote display plug would. I did find a remote bypass switch accessory compatible with my unit for $24, due in tomorrow. No remote display is available with my original unit. Might be able to McGuyver one but not worth the cost & effort to me. I keep a cheap plug in volt meter in my kitchen outlet for quick monitoring, reads about a volt low compared to the EMS.
Yes, I regret not ponying up the extra for the remote display ;(
2019 Wolf Pup 16 BHS Limited, axle flipped
2019 F150 4x4 SCrew SB STX 5.0 3.55 factory tow package, 7000#GVWR, 1990 CC Tow mirrors, ITBC, SumoSprings,

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
My 2005 HW50C remote has a switch.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Boomerweps wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.

As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get.


There were NO switches on the remote display whenever I bought my EMS. I’ll have to contact PI to see if the new remote is usable with my unit. IIRC, at the time I bought & 1st used my EMS, you could separately purchase the remote display later for near twice the additional cost buying it with the EMS.

I bought my PI EMS HW30C in 2008 with the remote pendant. It has the switch. Your PI must be really old, because mine is 14 years old. Here is a photograph of my pendant (note the lower left corner of the pendant):

Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Boomerweps
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:
Boomerweps wrote:
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.

As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get.


There were NO switches on the remote display whenever I bought my EMS. I’ll have to contact PI to see if the new remote is usable with my unit. IIRC, at the time I bought & 1st used my EMS, you could separately purchase the remote display later for near twice the additional cost buying it with the EMS.
2019 Wolf Pup 16 BHS Limited, axle flipped
2019 F150 4x4 SCrew SB STX 5.0 3.55 factory tow package, 7000#GVWR, 1990 CC Tow mirrors, ITBC, SumoSprings,

cbshoestring
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:
cbshoestring wrote:
I have to shut mine off when we boondock for four wheeling trips. The generator trips the unit for "open ground".

I'm normally only using the trailer for sleeping....with a space heater for heat. Maybe a bit of t.v. as I nod off. So I figure nothing important will get fried.


There is a way around that, so you don't have to bypass the EMS,just make or BUY a grounding plug for your generator.

This Thread may be of help to you if you are interested in doing it.


Thank you.

I normally use CG pedestals with the better half, but have recently started making 1 or 2 trips a year with the brothers to do a bit of ATV riding. One brother kindly shares his generator, as we both set up for minimum power usage.

I may have to add a plug to the collection....we all keep.

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
cbshoestring wrote:
I have to shut mine off when we boondock for four wheeling trips. The generator trips the unit for "open ground".

I'm normally only using the trailer for sleeping....with a space heater for heat. Maybe a bit of t.v. as I nod off. So I figure nothing important will get fried.


There is a way around that, so you don't have to bypass the EMS,just make or BUY a grounding plug for your generator.

This Thread may be of help to you if you are interested in doing it.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

cbshoestring
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:


This is one very good reason to have the remote display if you want to bypass the EMS and restore power and take the risk.



I have to shut mine off when we boondock for four wheeling trips. The generator trips the unit for "open ground".

I'm normally only using the trailer for sleeping....with a space heater for heat. Maybe a bit of t.v. as I nod off. So I figure nothing important will get fried.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Boomerweps wrote:
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.

As IAMICHABOD stated, there IS a bypass. It is part of the remote pendant that you didn't get.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
Boomerweps wrote:
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.


This is one very good reason to have the remote display if you want to bypass the EMS and restore power and take the risk.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

Boomerweps
Explorer
Explorer
I put the hard wired Progressive Industries HWC-30 in my TT. I cheaped out and didn’t get the remote display. Mistake.
Only problem is it does it’s job well. No ground, inverted polarity on the mains, NO POWER passed. No workarounds. Had low voltage at one place, it kept shutting off power. I suggest having a bypassable plug so you can get power in those odd cases IF you determine the risk is worth it.
2019 Wolf Pup 16 BHS Limited, axle flipped
2019 F150 4x4 SCrew SB STX 5.0 3.55 factory tow package, 7000#GVWR, 1990 CC Tow mirrors, ITBC, SumoSprings,

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Comparison chart https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Articles.asp?ID=279
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Surgtech94 wrote:
Looking for recommendations for a 30A Surge Protector for our 2020 25 foot KZ Connect . Thank you in advance


With a handle like that, you should be recommending them to us!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
IAMICHABOD wrote:
On my Class C I went for the hard wired EMS-HW30C for the best protection.

There will be others along soon with many differing views so until then
This Chart may be helpful when deciding what is best for you.

This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB