72cougarxr7 wrote:
westend wrote:
Most leaks will start at the roof line. When the water has intruded for awhile, and rot in the frame ensues, other siding joints will start to leak because there is no longer any frame to support the siding.
The holes adjacent to the window frame may have been from fasteners that attached siding to the frame. If the holes are in places where a fastener could not be used to attach to frame, then you'll need to seal them. Conventional auto body fillers work well in this kind of repair.
Corner trim that is leaking should be removed and if butyl putty tape has hardened or missing, it should be replaced. After the corner trim is fastened, seal the edges to the siding with a polymer sealer like Proflex RV.
I restored my Starcraft from the inside, removing the interior paneling instead of removing the siding. If necessary to remove siding, it is interlocked between pieces and is installed from the top-down, unlike residential. Removal is the opposite, from the bottom-up. You'll also need to remove any corner, door, and window trim that secures the ends. I'd suggest to work on any framing from the interior, if at all possible. That takes siding removal out of the process and leaves the trailer closed to the elements while work continues.
I think I will try to rebuild the framing from the inside.
One question I have for you.
How do you re-secure the tin to the new framing. Would a product like liquid nails be able to bond them together?
Glad you got a handle on the aluminum corrosion, my take is about the same as yours. FWIW, I had a few holes in my siding and for the biggest ones, I used a piece of self-stick asphaltic window flashing (sold as Protect-All) on the inside. If I had known about Eternabond at that time, that would have been my choice. I then went to the outside and filled with conventional auto body filler. I also used this flashing over the 1" diameter holes Starcraft felt was necessary to lead through the marker light wires. :p
The siding to frame fastening: I do some residential siding so am equipped for installation. I have a narrow crown stapler that shoots a 9/16" narrow crown staple (available in different colors). I did attach large pieces of aluminum sheet over windows I removed with conventional self tapping screws. Really, any fastener that is rated for exterior use can be used. Small head, stainless screws come to mind and there is always a need for them with an RV. You can dress the heads with a magic marker or paint and cue-tip to make it look professional. I did use a significant quantity of tubed construction adhesive but I used it between framing joints and where I reinforced some of the wood frame. I wouldn't trust it totally for holding the siding against the frame, there is too much movement involved while on the road.
Tip: be thinking ahead to what type of insulation is going back into the walls. I chose to use extruded foam and cut each piece to friction fit the cavity. I also used foam adhesive to fill any small gaps. The result is that my trailer is quieter inside than anything you can buy. It is also easy to heat and cool.
You can search through the restoration thread in my signature line,
The Cowboy/Hilton to see how I did some of this kind of work.
