Anode rod necessary ?

I don't know what sort of water heater my 1993 TT has. I've owned it for 10 years and the rod looks to me like the original one. It's not part of the drain plug, in my water heater the rod is screwed into the back higher up on the unit. I've never changed it. I'm afraid too. Like I said, it looks original to me and I'm afraid it will twist off in the wrong place and take part of the tank with it.

dougbo4 wrote:
Not concerned about money, just sulphur reaction (has happened once) and odor. No rod, no reaction....

Given the choice between the sulpher reaction that happened once, or tank corrosion reaction, I think I would keep the anode in place. No rod, possibly no tank in a few seasons.

They do not put those rods in because its fun or to make the bottom line smaller.

If money is no object, nix the rod and buy a spare heater to carry around.

Thanks for the replies/help, sarcasm not necessary when someone new to this is trying to learn......

Aluminum anode rods last longer than magnesium but offer less protection. The water quality is a big factor in anode longevity. If you are using the same water as your home, how often do you change the anode in the house water heater?

If using the same water heater and same water then the difference is either fluctuations in the makeup of the water or in the makeup of the rods.

gmckenzie wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
Yes. For the small price of the anode rod keep it. I have gone as much as 3 years on one anode, very little damage. It only dissolved at the end of the 3rd year.

3 yrs?

Mine came with the trailer when I bought mine in 2010 and is still mostly there. :)

I've heard that. I've never had one go over 3 years. One lasted me 1 year. This was on the same trailer. Not sure what makes them last longer? On my current MH it came with a new one. I just drained the water tank to get out some nasty campground water and the rod was already coming apart down by the threads. I kept my trailer plugged in at the house so not sure if being plugged in caused them to wear out faster.

rbpru wrote:
Old biscuit, yes it is a 6 gallon Atwood. It is hotter than the dickens. Fortunately, it is well insulated so we run it for 15 in the morning and we are good all day or until we do dishes.

T-stat controls heat cycles......OPENS at 140*F/Closes for reheat at 110*F
ECO (Energy Cut Off---HIGH temp t-stat) Opens at 180*F/triggers FAULT Light (t-stat recloses at 150*F but FAULT Light has tobe manually reset)

Options are available>

Atwood has a 130*F optional T-stat (Atwood 91470)
Some websites will list it as 120*F but that is incorrect.....no 120*F available discontinued years ago)

Atwood Adjustable 110*F - 150*F T-stat (Atwood 93105)

dodge guy wrote:
Yes. For the small price of the anode rod keep it. I have gone as much as 3 years on one anode, very little damage. It only dissolved at the end of the 3rd year.

3 yrs?

Mine came with the trailer when I bought mine in 2010 and is still mostly there. :)

Old biscuit, yes it is a 6 gallon Atwood. It is hotter than the dickens. Fortunately, it is well insulated so we run it for 15 in the morning and we are good all day or until we do dishes.

rbpru wrote:
My water heater has no consumer temperature control or anode, I am sure it was the cheapest model when it was installed 10 years ago.

It is still going strong on both gas and electricity.

I drain it for winter and if is going to be stored for a long time.

Sounds like an Atwood and it being a 2010 vintage it would be a:
GC6A-10E if 6 gal
GC10A-4E if 10 gal

Most current combo versions and NOT the cheapest (could have been a pilot gas version)


Atwood and Suburban both use pre-set t-stats (no agjustments)
*atwood does have a cheap adjustable optional t-stat