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Bal X chock question

herburban1
Explorer
Explorer
Looking at these chocks for the new rig we pick it up May first.. Jayco 29 BHS.. Would 1 work or do I need them on both sides? On the old TT 26 footer I used just the plastic chocks front and back on curb side.. I hear the new one rocks a bit more so that is why I ask.. Thanks Open to other suggestions
05 Jayflight 29 BHS, 07 Yukon XL Reese Straightline 1200
80 Yamaha Exciter 250
93 Sylvan 17' pontoon
01 Searay 180
Old Town Kayak Otter double "big yellow banana"
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54 REPLIES 54

mdfenley
Explorer
Explorer
facory wrote:
What does "drug around my chocks" mean?


I believe he means that that after he places the standard wheel chock in front of the tire and then tried to pull the trailer forward to place pressure on it, that instead of the chock sitting in place so that the tire can ride up on it, the wheel chock was sliding, thus the dragging around the chocks. Been there, done that, didn't get a t-shirt. :S

facory
Explorer
Explorer
What does "drug around my chocks" mean?
2008 Cruiser RV Fun FinderXtra
Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 SuperCrew 5.4L 6.5' Bed 150" WB 3.73
Schwinn Mountain Bike

jandjbaums
Explorer
Explorer
Lspangler wrote:
t seems to me the x chocks are only a solution for improperly installed chocks.

Those campers that just stick a chock in front of a tire and give it a kick aren't doing it right. You need to pull forward onto the chock, then place one behind the tire and put your truck in neutral. The trailer will settle onto both chocks.

Done this way you won't be able to tell if the xchocks are there or not so you won't need to install them anymore.

The xchock is minimizing movement between loosely installed wheel chocks

Linc
This works in some places but not all. I have drug around my chocks trying this. So using both will help in a runaway trailer and the rocking.
  • 07 Toyota Tacoma double cab
  • 2011 Stellar 18cb TH

The_Weekenders
Explorer
Explorer
The Bal X chocks are not a subsitute for wheel chocks. They are merely for stopping motion in the trailer. It is a bit misleading they use the word chocks in describing their product.
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2004 Ford F350 6.0PSD
2008 Keystone Montana 3585SA

dadmomh
Explorer
Explorer
We originally bought "Brand X", whatever it was, from CW that looked like they'd do the same job as the somewhat pricier BAL X Chocks. After several years we had a problem with the original set and replaced them with the BAL. Much, much better and worth the additional few dollars. Get 2. Check ebay, can't remember what we paid, but it was less than we'd seen advertised other places and free shipping.
Trailerless but still have the spirit

2013 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2604 - new family
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facory
Explorer
Explorer
Good method for installing chocks. Hadn't thought of that.
2008 Cruiser RV Fun FinderXtra
Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 SuperCrew 5.4L 6.5' Bed 150" WB 3.73
Schwinn Mountain Bike

Lspangler
Explorer
Explorer
t seems to me the x chocks are only a solution for improperly installed chocks.

Those campers that just stick a chock in front of a tire and give it a kick aren't doing it right. You need to pull forward onto the chock, then place one behind the tire and put your truck in neutral. The trailer will settle onto both chocks.

Done this way you won't be able to tell if the xchocks are there or not so you won't need to install them anymore.

The xchock is minimizing movement between loosely installed wheel chocks

Linc

facory
Explorer
Explorer
Experience has taught me that Bal X type chocks will not hold the trailer if wants to move forward or backwards. I found this out while working inside my trailer when it shifted and moved forward. I had the Bal X chocks on both sides. From that day on I have not used them again. I use the standard chocks like the yellow ones shown in the picture. Have never had another problem. Being inside when the trailer decided to lurch is a very scary experience.
2008 Cruiser RV Fun FinderXtra
Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 SuperCrew 5.4L 6.5' Bed 150" WB 3.73
Schwinn Mountain Bike

DE88ROX
Explorer
Explorer
jandjbaums wrote:
DE88ROX wrote:
Save yourself the money and just build your own. I have since trimmed off excess threaded rod and painted them black. They blend right in with the tires and you don't even notice them.
I already had the 4x4 laying around. all I had to buy was the hardware.

I just made a set of these. I like the fact they are cheap to make, and nobody would really try to steal them, their only wood blocks! Thanks for the great idea, saved a bundle of cash.


Thanks, but I cant take credit for the idea. I got it right here on this forum. ๐Ÿ™‚
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jandjbaums
Explorer
Explorer
DE88ROX wrote:
Save yourself the money and just build your own. I have since trimmed off excess threaded rod and painted them black. They blend right in with the tires and you don't even notice them.
I already had the 4x4 laying around. all I had to buy was the hardware.

I just made a set of these. I like the fact they are cheap to make, and nobody would really try to steal them, their only wood blocks! Thanks for the great idea, saved a bundle of cash.
  • 07 Toyota Tacoma double cab
  • 2011 Stellar 18cb TH

Atlee
Explorer II
Explorer II
EDIT: Remove Double post
Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

Atlee
Explorer II
Explorer II
WRT to my Bal X-Chock, I always deploy them before I extend the slide. And I pull in the slide before I remove the X-Chock.


As for the nut, after having the trouble you've experienced with the nut behind the wheel skirting, I just turn the X-Chock upside down. The chock doesn't care, and I have easy access to the nut.

myredracer wrote:


One thing to think about with X-chocks is access to them, especially when it's wet and raining out. If you have a slide over the wheels, it can be a pain to mount and tighten them after the slide is out. There's different designs of them. The type that you have to lock with your foot would not work very well in this case.

Another thing with the type that has a nut or handle on the top, in some cases, the wheel skirting can obscure the nut and you need to tighten it by feel and be crouched over. That's what ours is like (BAL) and it's a bit of a nuisance.

Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

Highway_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
Setup and leveling usually requires one side tires be up on blocks. I use wedges on the non raised side and a X-chock type on the side on blocks. I am thinking of making some and using some non-slip deck tape to grip the tires. Home made ones would be less likely to grow legs. Looking at the home made ones, the only thing keeping the tires from rotating is the threaded rod. If it bends, TT is gone.
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2014 OutdoorsRV Wind River 250RDSW
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Tin-bender
Explorer
Explorer
myredracer wrote:


Another thing with the type that has a nut or handle on the top, in some cases, the wheel skirting can obscure the nut and you need to tighten it by feel and be crouched over. That's what ours is like (BAL) and it's a bit of a nuisance.



Turn it over:);)