Bubbles in new Proflex

[yankeeslover]

Just looking for an easy fix. I used proflex to seal to top of trim..first time i ever used it.. im the worst hand with a caulk gun..I didnt relize that alittle proflex goes A LONNGGGG way.. anyways its been about 6 hours now and its dry but i noticed a couple bubbles developed along the seam. I am not doing anything till im at my campsite friday and the slide is open, but can i just pop the bubble with a tootpick and put alittle more proflex on? dont really care if it looks like******as long as it does the job..And of course i missed some seams also... not sure how..LOL.. can proflex be put ontop of existing proflex? dumb question, I know..thanks

[westend]

BurbMan wrote:
You're better than me, I ignored the directions the first time I used ProFlex and proceeded to make a mess on the order of a toddler with a chocolate bar in the sun....that stuff was everywhere, and the caulk line looked like the toddler had done it with the hand not holding the chocolate bar!

Lol. The good news is that it isn't like concrete, bad results can be easily redone.

I guess I found out early that heating the Geocel polymer stuff in the tube helped with getting a good result. That was probably more a happenstance due to cool weather conditions than any skillful thought. I paint a few houses every year so a caulk gun is a necessary part of the process. Siliconized latex is a lot easier to apply then the polymer or urethane sealers, though. The good news is that there is a lot less to do on an RV than a house.

[mikakuja]

I clean the area and apply as stated above, then I use a dish soap and water mix to smooth the proflex to a nice consistant smooth finish.....

[yankeeslover]

LOL burbman.... me also.... it looked awful.... oh well. next time i use that proflex i will make the hole smaller... atleast i know the proflex is on there.. boy that stuff is good.. im gonna put a bead right underneath that trim piece on the bottom of the slide.. i dont trust water wicking its way around that bottom slide trim... a bead of proflex should seal it up nice and good... I suppose..

[BurbMan]

You're better than me, I ignored the directions the first time I used ProFlex and proceeded to make a mess on the order of a toddler with a chocolate bar in the sun....that stuff was everywhere, and the caulk line looked like the toddler had done it with the hand not holding the chocolate bar!

[westend]

Thanks for the tip, BurbMan. IIRC, i just used my old standby, my right index finger. I got everything pretty smooth. Next time, I'll try the mineral spirits or hand cleaner.

[BurbMan]

westend wrote:
After the bead is applied, you can use a spoon or your finger to smooth the caulk back into the joint. A spoon is easier for rookies and if you keep it in a small container with water, it will make the bead as smooth as glass.

Good technique but if you do this with ProFlex it will drag, separate and you will ruin what was a good caulk joint. The manufacturer recommends using mineral spirits instead of water and I can tell you they are not joking. You need to dip your finger in mineral spirits, NOT WATER, if you are smoothing a ProFlex joint.

I have also found that dipping my finger in Goop mechanic's hand soap works too. 🙂

To the OP: If bubbles are forming in fresh ProFlex, you may have water behind the joint. Water may be coming in elsewhere and attempting to run out the of the joint you just caulked. Check carefully before you repair, since adding more ProFlex will just do a better job of keeping water in if there is any.

[westend]

You seem like a rookie with a caulk gun so I'll relay a few tips to you just like I do with a new guy on my crew.

First, is the surface you are attempting to seal clean and free of oil, silicone. and dirt? If it's not, it has to be cleaned with the right stuff.

Second, if you're applying new sealant over old sealant, is the old stuff flaking or falling off. If so, remove the old caulk with the appropriate tool.

Cut the tip of the caulk tube just big enough to either stick in the metal puncture rod or a nail if you use that. The opening should be about 1/8" in diameter. The opening should be cut on an angle.

Caulk is applied with the angle of the tube onto the surface and while gently pulling the trigger of the gun, it is drawn away from caulk being deposited.

After the bead is applied, you can use a spoon or your finger to smooth the caulk back into the joint. A spoon is easier for rookies and if you keep it in a small container with water, it will make the bead as smooth as glass.

Different sealants have different characteristics. Proflex is stiff when applied and I will sometimes heat the tubes next to a heat vent in the house or close to a free standing heater to make the sealant more malleable and easier to apply. These polymer sealants dry slowly so can be retooled if not hardened.

Depending on temperature, it's sometimes best to apply and tool immediately, regardless if the whole joint is covered. You can cover a joint in stages.

Good luck with the Proflex. it is a good sealant and I wouldn't worry about a small bubble or three.

BTW, I thought you put the Proflex on this afternoon and closed the slide? Are you out there with a flashlight inspecting your work? If so, go to bed and count caulking guns, lol.

Another BTW, Proflex will harden in the tube in a week or so if it isn't sealed and refrigerated. It will not last a month or an entire summer, one of it's drawbacks.

[Old-Biscuit]

Use a sharp utility blade to cut bubble out....not just pop it
Then reseal with a little more Proflex

Smooth it out using a dab of mineral spirits on your finger

[opnspaces]

You can leave the bubbles alone. They aren't hurting anything and you are sealed.

If they really bother you you can pop them or slice then with a razor. Unless they are all the way through the seal they will be fine and not leak.

Yes if you don't like the look of the popped bubbles you can add more Proflex. Just do it sparingly so you don't make a huge mess.