Changing a flat

Tvov wrote:

Tom/Barb wrote:
While you are at home loosen and retorque each nut, and be certain you can break them loose when you need to. then all you really need is a breaker bar and proper socket, and an extension to get the brakes bar out beyond the rim. (or a 4 leg)

This doesn't need to be complicated.

But a good torque wrench is a great tool.

This is pretty much what I do if my wheels are put on by a garage / tire shop. Every tire place I've seen uses impact wrenches that drive lug nuts on incredibly tight.

Interestingly, I have talked to dealer mechanics who say they are required by their job to use those pre-set lug sockets (usually color coded) on their air wrenches that prevent over tightening. Which is a great thing to say - until I bring home a dually from a dealer that has half the lug nuts loose.

Anyways, I usually change my own tires, and if it is done by a shop I try to "re-change" them at my house so that lug nuts aren't impossible to take off.

on any of the three tag along trailers we towed, I always had the tires changed at Les Swabs(sp) and watched them use a torque wrench and checked the setting on it.
Not all trailers have the same requirements, and it is the axel manufacturer that sets that requirement, not the trailer manufacturer.
Using long cheater bars in most cases will simply allow the wrench to twist off the nut and make it near impossible to remove after that.