Changing a flat

GypsiesAtHeart2016 wrote:
Thanks everyone for the responses.

I think I'll try the 3/4" breaker bar & socket with a cheater bar (haven't carried one of those in a while).

When you do that, be sure to buy a long enough extension get out side of the trailer and a crutch to hold it level of the lug nut. other wise the socket will not stay on the lug nut.

I use a 4"X2" aluminum square tube, with a few holes in it for hight adjustment. a wooden 2X4 works as well.

Thanks everyone for the responses.

I think I'll try the 3/4" breaker bar & socket with a cheater bar (haven't carried one of those in a while). And make sure the lugs are torqued properly not slammed on by the garage.

I'll let you know after the new year if I break all 56 lugs!

What exactly are you trying to change the tire on ? Camper, tow vehicle, or both ? .. Didnt see any thing stated about what the tow vehicle is, the torque on the lugs for for my F350 Dually is 175 ft/lbs .. not gonna get that with a 3/8" wrench

Ductape wrote:
Low tech is best for unplanned emergencies. Breaker bar and pipe makes it easy.

Do not lube threads. Torque values are computed dry in almost all cases. Check your manual to see if yours is an exception.

Not sure on automotive lugs but astm specs for bolt tensioning by turn of the nut require the bolts to be oiled.
Otherwise the spec would have to account for a large possible range of Friction losses.
Either way, some grease or anti seize will not make a hill of beans difference when tensioning your lugs. And they won't rust on there.

To the op, breaker bar with cheater pipe if you don't have enough lead in your shorts to get the lugs loose with a 4 way, or 1/2" electric impact of you have power makes it super easy, and get a good Jack that works with your rig on all wheels. Either a bottle jack or floor Jack if you have the room.

If you use a 4 way,check it out first,on my F250 it would not fit all the way.
The stock one works fine

mkirsch wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
"Using long cheater bars in most cases will simply allow the wrench to twist off the nut and make it near impossible to remove after that."

Used incorrectly, you could be right. Used correctly, almost no chance of rounding anything off. You just need to be aware of how to use your tool. :)

Is there some sort of voodoo dance I should be doing beforehand?

Definately. If you got the correct cheater bar, you should have got the voodoo dance instructions.

Wayne

fj12ryder wrote:
"Using long cheater bars in most cases will simply allow the wrench to twist off the nut and make it near impossible to remove after that."

Used incorrectly, you could be right. Used correctly, almost no chance of rounding anything off. You just need to be aware of how to use your tool. :)

So what is "correctly?"

Near as I can tell the only way to use a cheater bar is:

1. Slip over handle of wrench.
2. Reef on cheater bar until something gives way.

Is there some sort of voodoo dance I should be doing beforehand?

Purchased the latest model 20v Dewalt DCF889B impact which is rated at 400 ft. lbs. (older ones are 300 ft. lbs.). VERY easily removes and retightens all the lug nuts on my truck and trailer (150 ft. lbs). Always do final tightening with a torque wrench.

For the heck of it, used the Dewalt to install a new 2 5/16" ball (1 1/4" shank) on my WDH. The original ball was installed with a 750 ft. lb. impact gun to approx. 400 ft. lbs. Yes, the Dewalt DCF889B struggled to remove the old ball, but it did remove it. Nice to know I can use the DCF889B (in a pinch) to remove/tighten a 2 5/16" ball or adjust my WDH while I'm on the road.

FWIW, as a backup, I also carry a 24" 3/4" breaker bar with all the appropriate sockets to work on my truck, trailer, and WDH on the road if need be. I've found 1/2" breaker bars are too weak to properly service my WDH.

For those that need even more torque, the 20v Dewalt DCF899B impact wrench is rated at 700 ft. lbs (1,200 ft. lbs. breakaway).

"Using long cheater bars in most cases will simply allow the wrench to twist off the nut and make it near impossible to remove after that."

Used incorrectly, you could be right. Used correctly, almost no chance of rounding anything off. You just need to be aware of how to use your tool. :)

Tom/Barb wrote:

coolbreeze01 wrote:
Try your equipment out at home before you need it.

Proper maintenance is the clue, inspect it, have in the best condition possible prior to leaving will prevent most tire problems. But when a road hazard happens most times the tire is beyond repair.
When lug nuts have been properly torqued, they can be removed with a common 4 leg wheel wrench.
Every year they should be removed cleaned and replaced torqued properly, when you do your bearings, inspect your brakes.

I'm not too sure about that last statement about a 4-way lug wrench being enough. The lug nuts on my Dodge dually are supposed to be torqued to 160 lb.ft. That is a little tough to loosen with a standard 4-way.