changing coolant on 2007 2500HD

Got the PM asking for details...

Here is a quote from my last response on the topic

OATs and HOATs has 'organic' material in there that is highly reactive to
oxygen and why most OEMs have removed the radiator cap. Moved it to the over
flow bottle, which is no longer an overflow, but pressurized. Along with a
translucent bottle body so you can check fluid level without opening to allow
O2 into the system

There is also an 'A' in the anagram, which stands for 'ACID', which etches the
metal surfaces to allow the 'O' to plate. That takes over 1,000 miles, while
the old silica based only too a couple hundred miles to plate

BenK wrote:
Here is my DIY kit to reverse flush and get nearly all of the old coolant out

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24272597/gotomsg/24272676.cfm#24272676


Back on DeathCool...some of the OATs and HOATs employ 2-Ethylhexanoic acid as
the organic acid to prepare (etch) metal surfaces inside the cooling system for plating
a corrosion protective coating

That acid is also a plasticizer...meaning it melts or softens plastic. If there
is any plastic in any of the coolant system gaskets (this included the head
gasket)...it will soften it to then potentially have it leak...

So the question...is all of the 2-Ethylhexanoic acid consumed during
the etching process that turns it into a metal oxide or is there any
left floating around looking for something to etch? The what about
the metal oxide floating around in the cooling system? Will it stay
as is?

Nope...if O2 gets in there...they will then combine and or react with that O2