Cool Mods - Thread restored 10/18/2012

[2Rad4U]

My daughter was getting a little warm in her bunk during our last camping trip, so I decided to put her a fan in to keep the air flowing.

I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.

She picked the spot, and I got to work -



I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -



I added one in the main area -



I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -



I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -



Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -

[martipr]

Anthony21403 wrote:
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO

I am one of the guilty parties and I agree with you completely.

[swebber]

dbcc186 wrote:

Anthony21403 wrote:
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO

Yes

I second that !

[dbcc186]

Anthony21403 wrote:
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO

Yes

[tedrowan]

It seems that the discussion revolves around whether you nee to use a fiber / nylon plug or a metal plug. If you don't believe in galvanic properties of metals, use any metal you like. If you believe in the laws of physics, use nylon. Anyone done any cool mods??????????

[DarylSue]

Here..........Here.

[Anthony21403]

this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO

[ARIZONA_GUIDE]

Is the coating just pipe dope. It is a pipe thread sealer. I have not looked that close to the W/H in my trailer. Being in az i do not winterize. S i have just glanced at it from time to time. I am a plumber and use pipe dope on all my threaded conections. That includes on W/H,s and boilers.

[LarryJM]

cheezy26_81 wrote:

martipr wrote:

Loopy wrote:

cheezy26_81 wrote:

martipr wrote:

Loopy wrote:

MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.

it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.

I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.

I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".

Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.

There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.

Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.

if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?

I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.

The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.

martipr, you dont have to be a metallurgist, i am talking about your water heater that is in your trailer right now. look at your pressure relief valve, it is brass not nylon. so with your thinking you need to change your pressure relief valve to nylon (hold on they dont make one out of nylon). so i guess your next step should be to take it out and put in a nylon plug in it to, so you dont mix brass and aluminum. manufactures have safety specs they must follow and have tested and what you said about it is the poorest recommendation possible is crap. if the manufacture of your trailer recommended you to bring it in for repair im guessing you wouldnt because the manufactures recommendation is the poorest recommendation possible.

However what you don't know is if either the relief valve threads or the threads in the actual WH are either coated (like with epoxy, etc.) or the threads in that one fitting in the WH are made with a layer of something that won't react with the brass.

The fact is that brass is very reactive with aluminum so you take your chances by going against the grain with other alternatives known to be safe are available.

Larry

[cheezy26_81]

martipr wrote:

Loopy wrote:

cheezy26_81 wrote:

martipr wrote:

Loopy wrote:

MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.

it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.

I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.

I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".

Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.

There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.

Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.

if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?

I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.

The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.

martipr, you dont have to be a metallurgist, i am talking about your water heater that is in your trailer right now. look at your pressure relief valve, it is brass not nylon. so with your thinking you need to change your pressure relief valve to nylon (hold on they dont make one out of nylon). so i guess your next step should be to take it out and put in a nylon plug in it to, so you dont mix brass and aluminum. manufactures have safety specs they must follow and have tested and what you said about it is the poorest recommendation possible is crap. if the manufacture of your trailer recommended you to bring it in for repair im guessing you wouldnt because the manufactures recommendation is the poorest recommendation possible.

[martipr]

Loopy wrote:

cheezy26_81 wrote:

martipr wrote:

Loopy wrote:

MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.

it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.

I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.

I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".

Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.

There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.

Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.

if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?

I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.

The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.

[85AllegroSam]

Are you saying these guys are doing crafty craftmanship?

[dtbriz]

Thanks for all the ideas - just spent about an hour or so going over them.

Some of you are very inventive and crafty! Great work!!

[shadows4]

snarfattack wrote:

Patrick45 wrote:

Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?

I got it at Sams in a pack with that D battery flashlight and a AA one.

I got one at Sams also but googled Mag-lite holder and found several online.

[snarfattack]

Patrick45 wrote:

Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?

I got it at Sams in a pack with that D battery flashlight and a AA one.

[Patrick45]

snarfattack wrote:
Got tired of rolling into each other, so I replaced all the framing with 2x4s.



Mounted a flashlight in a convenient location..



Cheap security feature...



Battery Disconnect Switch. You'll also see the SS bolts I put in to keep the battery from moving back and forth.



The controversial brass water heater drain. I like this tiny short one as I can just open it, close the door and drive away. It will finish draining by the time we get home.

Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?