Dayton Fayette Axle Identification and Questions

[Wolfrequiem]

Hello, All,

I just purchased a 20' camper frame from the 1970's to build a tiny house on (the deck actually measures 18' 6", but I think they listed it as 20'). I live in an older Terry fifth wheel now and that is getting old during winter, so I'm hoping to build myself something--as/if funds allow--to do a little better. The camper frame has the Dayton Fayette axles and heavy duty suspension. The hubs are stamped 5-1-70, and they have the 10" brake drums, with brakes on *both* axles... and I'm desperate for some help identifying the axle rating and scoring a few part numbers, as well, if any of you can help me.

The first question, then, is what are the axles rated at?

The diameter of the axle and spindle are slightly more than is typical for 3500lb axles (the 2 3/8" and 1.719" normally quoted numbers--my axle is 2 3/4", or a hair more, and my spindle is 1.732", as best I can tell, on both), and, having read that some of the older models were actually rated at 4100lb, I'm wondering if these are (I need to know before I build on it, is why I ask). To add to the confusion, I've also read that some 5200lb axles actually measure in at the 2 3/8" diameter range too, so I don't know what to assume I have. With the heavy suspension and it being older, I'm thinking more than 3500lb, but can't be sure, if you could help me identify the rating. The coupler, if it matters, is a Marvel Class 3 unit.

The shocks I am getting/that I think will work are the Lippert LC283280. At least, I'm hoping those work.

Second, the trailer is missing four of the tapered 60° 1/2-20 bolts for the hubs, and I'm struggling to find replacements. I've searched and found the various places that sell the bolts of this type that are often linked in the forums, but they sell them with a *fine* thread, and I need *coarse," RH. Anybody know where four could be scored? And a salvage yard is fine.

Last, is there a PDF with the brake diagram on it, so that I can compare to see what might be missing? There are no lights at present, and the brakes have been cut, but I'm going to buy some lights and a harness and rewire it all, and need to know what to look for on the brakes when I inspect them, to know what needs to be replaced. Or if there are just some general things you know of—at first glance, they all seem to be there, though one scrubs when one wheel turns. I am told Dexter makes replacement parts, and have contacted them, but they're not proving very helpful. (Also, my idea of testing them is to wire the trailer, then hook it up to the truck, jacking up each tire or axle and spinning it while someone engages the brakes, to see, first, if it stops the tire and, second, if it releases it; does that sound like an appropriate method for testing them?)
And do any of you know the style or replacement part numbers with Dexter for them?

Anyway, any part references you can give on the bushings or seals or anything, please feel free. Anything you can link me to would be awesome, as well, shematics-wise, etc. I have ordered some seals already that I think will work, and have a shock in mind I'm going to try, as well, but am not sure about Class D or E on tires to order them. As for swapping the axles out--I don't have funds for that with all that I'm in for already, but, given how few times the thing will be on the road, would just as soon not spend the money on it. I mean, I may move it twice in my life, if that.

I am adding photos. I'm not sure if you can see it from the pictures, but the two wheeled axles are connected to that third axle between them, which is hooked to those bumpers between the wheels. It's weird, or, at least, I've never seen it before, but it looks heavy duty.

The main thing is, I'm not even sure what the devil I have or what you would call that suspension to even search for stuff on it. "Dayton Fayette" I can do, of course, not that that is helping any.

Thanks, in advance,
Gary

[Gdetrailer]

Wolfrequiem wrote:
I'm not sure why everyone is ignoring my caveat: Such measures are too expensive for me to afford, especially if you look at the photos and see what all would be involved in pulling the old hardware off, e.g., I don't weld or have access to a cutting torch without having to pay the premium for that, too. It's not just a matter of swapping something out, as on a newer model. The hubs I'm probably in for, but the axles I'm stuck with. Too, given that this thing won't be on the road probably but twice or maybe three times as long as I have it, the benefit-cost analysis makes doing anything more than necessary a waste. Thanks for the advice, though.

You are not listening to GOOD advice.

Dayton Fayette axle parts are made of "Unobtainium", they are obsolete and out of production.

The bolts you seek are rarer then "hens Teeth" and if I remember correctly one side uses LEFT HAND THREADS and those bolts pretty much are non existent the last time I tried searching for a poster on this forum..

You can find the rims, but they are costing $150 each now days USED WHEN YOU CAN FIND THEM FOR SALE and you will need 5 of them so you have a spare..

IF it was a DEXTER axle with the star rims you may have had some luck in calling Dexter to get a cross reference to a modern axle (which is what I was able to do) in order to cross to modern Ford 5 on 4.5 drum pattern (3500 lb axle).

Now, if you REALLY insist on doing it the hard way, you could buy the newer 5 bolt drums, then take the bearings from you old drum and go to a bearing shop and see if they can match a bearing with proper sizes..

BUT, you still have one more hurdle to deal with..

The axle stub length..

This one will have to be carefully measured and will need to MATCH EXACTLY but you have no real way to do this without either another axle stub or using the new drum with a test fit to see if it will come close..

Now, perhaps if you have the energy left you might be able to build your "tiny house"..

But I will toss an additional bomb into your idea..

Your trailer does not have SPRINGS..

It uses a "teeter totter" design and shocks to stabilize the teeter totter..

That is a less than ideal setup and most likely will cause a lot of grief in towing stability and comfort..

Listen to folks, scrap the axles and I would suggest the teeter totter suspension. New axles plus new springs and if you want shocks you could add them in also.

Do it right the first time rather than half way then regret the half way and then try to fix after the fact.

Scrapping the old axles and replacing with new will get you new brakes and new drums..

A pair of drums now days will cost you about $150 and you will need two pairs..

If you don't have the rims they will cost you $750 IF you are lucky to find them..

New Ford 5 on 4.5 pattern rims can be bought new starting at $40 each..

[Wolfrequiem]

I'm not sure why everyone is ignoring my caveat: Such measures are too expensive for me to afford, especially if you look at the photos and see what all would be involved in pulling the old hardware off, e.g., I don't weld or have access to a cutting torch without having to pay the premium for that, too. It's not just a matter of swapping something out, as on a newer model. The hubs I'm probably in for, but the axles I'm stuck with. Too, given that this thing won't be on the road probably but twice or maybe three times as long as I have it, the benefit-cost analysis makes doing anything more than necessary a waste. Thanks for the advice, though.

[DownTheAvenue]

Finding parts for anything almost 50 years old can be problematic,and if you even locate parts, they will be expensive. Replace with current production axles and be done with it. If you think the costs for new axles is expensive, just wait until you have a breakdown on the road with those obsolete axles!

[Ralph_Cramden]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Instead of trying to rebuild those OLD axles/Brakes with parts that are obsolete/hard if not impossible to find........buy a couple of NEW 5200# axle with electric brake assemblies and be done with it

X2 and I'd go a step further by throwing some Dexter Torflex axles on and eliminating shocks and springs entirely. Either #11 @ 6K rating or even #12 (7K) or #D13 (8K).

[Wolfrequiem]

Well, like I was saying, that's too expensive an option at this point, or, at least, given the $700 dollars, etc., I'm seeing them go for. Too, the suspension on this thing is the issue: New axles would mean me having to trade out the suspension too, at least, IF what Dexter is telling me is legit (they are trying to upsale me, so I only half trust them).

Thanks for the reply.

[Old-Biscuit]

Instead of trying to rebuild those OLD axles/Brakes with parts that are obsolete/hard if not impossible to find........buy a couple of NEW 5200# axle with electric brake assemblies and be done with it


But if you gotta have them call these folks. They use to have lots of axle parts etc
Mouser Steel Supply at (573) 866-2979.