Dually Conversion

This will still not alter the GVWR sticker on your drivers door post. If your going to go this route, I would suggest you find a donor dually to take the bed, rear axle assembly from. Remember duallies also have different studs, longer to accompdate the dual wheels. Of course, once you have the bed painted to match the cab, and the donor parts your total cost would likely exceed the cost to trade plus cash for a real dually

You might consider super single tires with a much higher than stock weight rating. Look at a place like http://www.ricksontruckwheels.com/index.php

They sell 19.5" rims with a 4,500 pound weight rating, and you can buy tires locally to avoid shipping fees.

If you have 4 wheel drive, then replacing all the rims is required to keep the same outside tire diameter. If you have 2 WD, you can just replace the rear two, and keep the others for the front axle or a spare. Sell the tires once they are nearly worn out on Craigslist to recoup some of your investment in the larger rims. .

Aftermarket conversions usually require a hub being installed to offset the front rim by 4" outward, to fit the dually shape rim on it. And the same type of adapter on the rear axle. Both are somewhat 'weak links' that I would rather not have on a 10,000 pound truck!

Good luck!

Fred.

The dually from the factory HAS the offset hub on it. so how is adding this to a non factory dually to be an issue?

With this in mind, a set of 225-70-19.5's would net you 9000 lbs of tire capacity, 245-70-19.5 upwards of 11K lbs of tires per axel. The 225's would be no diam difference if you already have 265's on the truck. 245;s would be about 1-1.5" more in diam, reducing your overall axel ratio to about a 3.55. Not my first choice, as these rigs are geared a bit too tall for steeper hill ie 20+% grades for starting power.

Marty

you have to convert the front as well for it to track correctly down the road

You'd spend more having it certified with a new GVWR than just going out
and buying a dually...

Going to commercial class tires/wheels will gain more tire capacity, but the
RGAWR and GVWR will still be the same...and...have to go through above to re-certify

In going to a dually conversion using commercial class tires will gain you
higher tire capacity and the biggie...wider track. Along with 8 sidewalls
rated commercial class

Agree...your front axle a spindle will need to changed out to the right
offset if the wheels are NOT dually offset now

Go for it...should cost about 3-4k to do it right with new tires and wheels and off set hubs...

The posters above are correct...the sticker will not change automagically but you will have drastically increased the capability of the truck and for Your peace of mind and your understanding of the trucks new capability.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

check out arrow wheels. They sell dually conversions, I thought about it but I dont tow heavy enough to need them.

Sir,

My dilemma was almost exactly the same as yours; a paid-for well-equipped truck (2006 with 40,000 miles!), but preparing to buy a larger RV. My fifth-wheel weighs within a few hundred pounds of yours and my RV garage is large enough for RV and truck, but not large enough for a dually.

After doing the research on my truck's running gear, sticker weights, and safe weights, I decided a tire upgrade was all I needed. I bought Vision Hauler 81 19.5 inch wheels from duallywheels4u and am very happy with this decision. The truck handles the RV very well with no stability problems whatever. It's actually more stable loaded than unloaded; these tires are designed to carry weight-and lots of it.

Without looking at your specific numbers, if your GM is like my Dodge, your axle is rated at something near 10,000 pounds. That leaves the tires as the weakest link, a legitimate safety concern.

Another poster (no names, no insult intended) suggested you would spend a lot of time or money to re-certify your weight capability. That's akin to re-certifying your toaster; nobody does it, nobody cares to do it, and nobody is overseeing that process (I'm LEO).

As for weighing your rig, a simple search will give you the answers to that question. It's easy but requires a little hassle of hooking, unhooking, etc.

Good luck with your decision.

Randy
-----------------------------
I have a 2011 Chevy 3500HD diesel, crew cab, long box, single rear wheel (SRW), 18,500 towing capabilities. I have seen conversion kits to convert my SRW to a dually, has anyone done this this? If so, are you happen with the results? I bought a 41 ft Heartland Big Horn 3750FL, 16K gvwr and I'm pushing the load capabilities for the SRW tires. I want to feel a little more secure with the camper load distribution on four dually tires vs. two. Any problems with this thinking?
Also, how can one weight the truck and camper to determine the pin weight? Thanks for your positive input and comments.

BenK wrote:
You'd spend more having it certified with a new GVWR than just going out
and buying a dually...

Certification is only required if you are performing the conversion for a customer, or you are selling the truck with the higher GVWR. It is not required for private use.

I converted my van using hub adapters. 300,000 miles later, so far so good. Only problem I've had is the aftermarket out wheels working loose after a while, because they are lug-centric instead of hub-centric like the OEM wheels. I will be fixing that soon. The lug seats are pretty worn down, so they are due for replacement.

donn0128 wrote:
This will still not alter the GVWR sticker on your drivers door post. If your going to go this route, I would suggest you find a donor dually to take the bed, rear axle assembly from. Remember duallies also have different studs, longer to accompdate the dual wheels. Of course, once you have the bed painted to match the cab, and the donor parts your total cost would likely exceed the cost to trade plus cash for a real dually

Find a wrecked dually of your year, take the axle, and the door sticker. Replace your door sticker with the one from the dually.

Problem solved.