Huntindog wrote:N-Trouble wrote:Impossible. My regen "times" are all over the map...FishOnOne wrote:Huntindog wrote:FishOnOne wrote:They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.N-Trouble wrote:The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.
As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.
1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.
2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...
Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.
Well said....
But wrong...
Once the regen STARTS it IS time based in order to complete. Soot level readings during regen are not accurate due to elevated temperature of the differential pressure sensor used to calculate "soot grams". If you have a Edge CTS monitor you can disconnect the differential pressure sensor when regen starts yet soot levels will continue to drop. How is that if the differential pressure sensor is disconnected??? Its because soot grams are simply theoretical values based on TIME the truck has been in regen. Once the tegen process is over and the diff pressure sensor cools soot grams are based on actual measured values. This is why some will see soot grams jump up right after regen completes.
As for comparing regen times/frequency between Ford and GM its "six in one, half dozen in the other". GMs have a longer but less frequent regen process. At the end of the day they probably work out to similar amount of time in regen.
It seems to be related to temperture. Here in AZ it gets really hot, 115 is not uncommon. Regen times are noticably shorter then. If towing in high heat, then even shorter.... So something is being monitored, and it is not the clock.
N-Trouble wrote:Impossible. My regen "times" are all over the map...FishOnOne wrote:Huntindog wrote:FishOnOne wrote:They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.N-Trouble wrote:The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.
As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.
1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.
2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...
Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.
Well said....
But wrong...
Once the regen STARTS it IS time based in order to complete. Soot level readings during regen are not accurate due to elevated temperature of the differential pressure sensor used to calculate "soot grams". If you have a Edge CTS monitor you can disconnect the differential pressure sensor when regen starts yet soot levels will continue to drop. How is that if the differential pressure sensor is disconnected??? Its because soot grams are simply theoretical values based on TIME the truck has been in regen. Once the tegen process is over and the diff pressure sensor cools soot grams are based on actual measured values. This is why some will see soot grams jump up right after regen completes.
As for comparing regen times/frequency between Ford and GM its "six in one, half dozen in the other". GMs have a longer but less frequent regen process. At the end of the day they probably work out to similar amount of time in regen.
joe puma wrote:
Thanks for the input, I will check both my factory and extended warranty. This time he tells me they didn't find anything. All sensors and everything is working since it is all monitored when they do the manual regen. Of course they didn't try to charge me, and we'll have to see if it happens next time. I still think its something in a computer, never had this issue before.
Thinking of writing to GM, both about the warranty and a dealer that really knows how to work on diesels.
Thanks again.
FishOnOne wrote:Huntindog wrote:FishOnOne wrote:They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.N-Trouble wrote:The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.
As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.
1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.
2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...
Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.
Well said....
Huntindog wrote:FishOnOne wrote:They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.N-Trouble wrote:The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.
As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.
1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.
2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...
Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.
FishOnOne wrote:They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.N-Trouble wrote:The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.
As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.
1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.
2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...
Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.
FishOnOne wrote:N-Trouble wrote:The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.
As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.
1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.
2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...
Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.
