Free Camper Adventure: Moved Successfully!

[BurbMan]

Finally had a nice day here yesterday so I got over to the storage yard where the camper is. Reinstalled the LF jack, tightened the bracket bolts, and checked the rears too. Since no battery onboard or electric, I used the hand crank to verify that all the jacks worked. I just went up a little, just enough to take the weight off of that corner to where I could slide around the boards underneath.

Now for the problem area in the RF...the 1x2 on the front frame was still solid, so I was able to thru-bolt the jack bracket to it. Since that corner bottom is separated, I used a ratchet strap to keep the jack from leaning out with weight on it. I was able to jack the camper the same 1/4" as I did in the other 3 corners and didn't hear any crunching, creaking or otherwise bad noises.

From what I can tell, the jack is carrying the weight from above, meaning that little 1x2 is in compression, and it should carry the weight as long as it stays straight.

All I need to do is keep it on the jacks long enough to get the blocks out from underneath and back a trailer under it. What do you think? Doable? What are my other options for lifting this corner aside from a crane with a sling?

[pira114]

joerg68 wrote:
Have you considered putting it on a low trailer for the short way home?
Much less height involved. Just stabilize the camper, clear underneath, and roll the trailer under the camper. The place where it is parked must have been vehicle-accessible at the time.

This is probably the easiest and cheapest. Just rent a car trailer from Uhaul and tie it down. Easy peasy

[ticki2]

AnEv942 wrote:

BurbMan wrote:
Zulu, will do!

Looking at this pic, it doesn't appear that there are any obstructions in the bed:



I need to get over to HD and check but I believe that all 3 sides fold down so the truck can be loaded with a forklift, in case you buy a whole pallet of something like roof shingles.......

What I think ticki2 was referring to is the side gates fold down but corner post is fixed.

Exactly , a forklift would have to lift the TC floor over the posts . Unless it could be loaded from the rear , doubtful .

[AnEv942]

BurbMan wrote:
Zulu, will do!

Looking at this pic, it doesn't appear that there are any obstructions in the bed:



I need to get over to HD and check but I believe that all 3 sides fold down so the truck can be loaded with a forklift, in case you buy a whole pallet of something like roof shingles.......

What I think ticki2 was referring to is the side gates fold down but corner post is fixed.

[opnspaces]

Measure both the camper and the truck, make sure the sides are folded down if they are not removable. What is the width across between the two front jacks? Will the HD truck be able to back under the camper without hitting a jack?

[BurbMan]

I'm tied up this Saturday again, so will probably get over there Sunday and make the additional provisions. I think the move will be the following Saturday, weather permitting. I have until the end of April to move it, so no sense doing this in the rain if I don't have to.

[joerg68]

Have you considered putting it on a low trailer for the short way home?
Much less height involved. Just stabilize the camper, clear underneath, and roll the trailer under the camper. The place where it is parked must have been vehicle-accessible at the time.

[Kayteg1]

Forklift rental with delivery runs $500 easy, so free camper would not make that very cheap.
I have Atwood jacks and they extend pretty high. I used them on Utility body, what added like 7" over the frame and on flat surface it was good.
Had to add shimming when park on slope.
Since jacks stand on blocks, no way jack height is going to be issue.
So when is the date?

[djg]

You could always rent a fork lift an just put it on that way then u will not worry about the jacks not holding and the toppling effect

Dave

[BurbMan]

Zulu, will do!

I'll take some additional pics this weekend, I plan to get over to the yard and reinforce that right corner with some angle iron, and also build some deadmen for the front corners.

Looking at this pic, it doesn't appear that there are any obstructions in the bed:



I need to get over to HD and check but I believe that all 3 sides fold down so the truck can be loaded with a forklift, in case you buy a whole pallet of something like roof shingles.

According to the HD site, it lists the "Load Floor Height" at 35.2"....which is only slightly higher than where it is sitting now at about 32", so I should only need to jack the camper a few inches....the jacks are sitting on cement blocks, so I would think they have enough travel left. How high off the ground is a typical pickup bed?

Thanks for all the good ideas and suggestions, will keep everyone posted on the progress and share the video when it's done.

[zulu52]

Be sure to video tape the entire process.
If you do it right, we can all learn from your experience. If you do it wrong, you might win $10,000 on America's Funniest Home Videos.

Worth a try in my book!
Zulu

[AnEv942]

I wouldn't trust 1x2 in corner. At minimum I'd sandwich what is left of front wall. Screw on large piece of ply that reaches filon and almost to window, using filon remnant and any internal structure to spread loads. Drill the jack holes thru from inside, then attach another large piece of ply inside, screw (lots) both pieces into the other, reinstall jack. If using angle to catch other mount leg, fill any gaps, those rusted welds may not like any non vertical pull.

Front to back, strap shown is not going to offer anything if camper starts to move or resistance to it moving. Maybe a full length 2x6 U-bolted to back side of front/rear jacks, at least 2 ubolts on front, thin piece of flat bar slipped in at root should keep them from crushing tube. If spanned looks like the edge of 2x would be under edge of wing so fastening some blocks to it then screw the blocks to underside of wing. Would also give some more lift along wing.

Truck mentioned will carry it, Id max rear tires air to rating. 3 miles I assume at least a 15 minute drive, probably take me 30 cause I doubt I could hit 10 mph. Side gates might be close, & camper may have to set back a bit so the 'headache' rack doesn't hit cabover curve
to wall.
No great investment loss if it topples unless it hits what ever that is beside it. Scariest is someone is going to be between it and that box.

[hornet28]

Lots of ideas here. But some thoughts. Strapping the legs together would still allow them to collapse inward, a camper with solid attachment points for the jacks would still be unsturdy at the height needed to get it on a flatbed

[mkirsch]

Don't worry about the truck. It will be just fine for a 3-mile slow-speed drive, even if the tires are grossly underinflated.

I would build some "deadman" stands to prop the wing and cabover on that front corner, to take some of the weight off and stabilize things. If you've ever seen or used a "deadman" to hold drywall up to a ceiling, you'll know what I mean: A braced T made from 2x4's. These would be jammed under the wing and cabover on that front corner at an angle so they clear the truck. The T spreads the load out across the edge of the camper so nothing gets crushed.

[ticki2]

If memory serves me those Home Depo trucks have a solid post at the rear for the sides to attach to , not a true flatbed . This would prevent you from using a cross beam after only jacking a few inches and driving the truck out from under . You would have to rely on the front jacks until the truck was out . If you think the Jack can support the load vertically , big IF , you could Rachet strap the legs together at ground level , left to right front and back , front to back left and right , then X , that should keep them vertical . Think everything over 3 times , be careful .

[hornet28]

With the bad area for the jack attachment I would be leery of jacking it very high. Plus I have doubts if the jacks would even get it high enough to set it on the flatbed