so for the few other brave souls (or crazy, you decide) who venture out in the winter with the camper...what do you do about your power cord being frozen stiff when you are out with power? mainly, im talking about campers with power cords that do not disconnect from the camper. it is a pain in the butt to get the darn thing back in its storage. the only thing I can come up with is to use a different cord, connecting it to the end of the camper cord while in the "box" and run the extension to the power post. then I can just throw the cord in the camper regardless of being able to roll it up or not. so, besides just doing that...has anyone else come up with a nifty trick? no, not going out during winter is not a nifty trick either.

Hi,I cut the cord off leaving about 2 feet. I put on a male 30 amp plug. I went to an electrician and had him make up a cord that is flexible in cold weather.

pianotuna wrote:Hi,I cut the cord off leaving about 2 feet. I put on a male 30 amp plug. I went to an electrician and had him make up a cord that is flexible in cold weather.hmm...that's a good idea. it would be nice if the camper manufacturer used a cord material that was flexible in very cold temps. then again, only a small percentage of people go out in that weather so its a numbers thing im sure.thanks

To this point, all I've done is buy a kit to convert mine to a separate cord that plugs in to the side of the camper. Haven't ever gotten around to cutting off my cord and putting it on though. The old cord would still be THE cord, but it would connect/disconnect directly to the camper. That kit is sold a lot of places like camping World. I think that is ultimately the only solution other than replacing the cord completely with a thick yet flexible cord and I think that would be really pricey.So in the meantime, I did open up and make a little more space in the box, and, I improved the heat a bunch to down there so when the cord comes OUT, it is nice and flexible.....but I still go out there to leave the house or camp site, and it is 15 degrees, and the cord is so stiff I am afraid I'll bust a pipe in there shoving the cord in. The best I can offer, is to make sure you know exactly how long between each 180 where you bend the cord and wear heavy gloves that you can bend without bending it against any pipes etc. Over time, those bends get set into the cord and that does make it a bit easier. Not much help from me, but there you go. "I feel your cold" so to speak though, that's for sure.

I have a 50amp cord and its almost a fight that ESPN could show on Sporscenter. 18 degrees Saturday when I broke camp. I always win but what a battle and I have a large compartment. For the 30 amp cord on a truck camper, you can buy cord at the electric supply place that is rubber covered and is cold flexible. Most all normal RV cord is vinyl covered. Hard wire to TC and then get a plug to put on end. I'd get the new style like a Camco Mfg 55242 30-Amp Power Grip Plug Randu

btggraphix wrote:To this point, all I've done is buy a kit to convert mine to a separate cord that plugs in to the side of the camper. Haven't ever gotten around to cutting off my cord and putting it on though. The old cord would still be THE cord, but it would connect/disconnect directly to the camper. That kit is sold a lot of places like camping World. I think that is ultimately the only solution other than replacing the cord completely with a thick yet flexible cord and I think that would be really pricey.So in the meantime, I did open up and make a little more space in the box, and, I improved the heat a bunch to down there so when the cord comes OUT, it is nice and flexible.....but I still go out there to leave the house or camp site, and it is 15 degrees, and the cord is so stiff I am afraid I'll bust a pipe in there shoving the cord in. The best I can offer, is to make sure you know exactly how long between each 180 where you bend the cord and wear heavy gloves that you can bend without bending it against any pipes etc. Over time, those bends get set into the cord and that does make it a bit easier. Not much help from me, but there you go. "I feel your cold" so to speak though, that's for sure.hey thanks. ill look into changing to the shore power style that disconnects from the camper. wont have time to do that before this weekends trip but ill look into it for sure.

frozen stiff power cords | Good Sam Community

okan-star
Explorer
Dec 07, 2013
Most of the time I `m not useing power that requires a 30 amp cord
I have removed the onan gen and sold it and use a Honda on a platform on the rear ,in front of the gen compartment, so to power with the honda I put a short piece of 20 amp cord on the existing gen junction box in the compartment to plug into the honda , the 30 amp cord in the power comp remains pluged into the receptical that goes to the junction box
Aside from a little line voltage drop it works good
If I was in a park and useing the AC I would use the 30 amp cord , but most times I`m useing the honda , or at home just pluged in for battery maintance so I use a household 20 amp cord and throw it into a compartment when I travel
Havent unpluged the 30 amp from the receptical in a long time
whizbang
Explorer II
Dec 07, 2013
I just pull out 4 to 6 inches and then hook up with an extension cord.
the_tc_life
Explorer
Dec 06, 2013
I stopped at wally world before I left and bought a 30 foot 30 amp extension cord to use. Worked great last night.
Now if only my truck battery would have held up that would have been fantastic. Local Napa in town...new battery...but more about that in my trip report later.
Moose10
Explorer
Dec 06, 2013
tc life, your suggestion is exactly what I do. Living up here in the Interior of AK, we all carry arctic rated extension cords to plug our vehicles in anyway, so I do the same with the truck camper.
Arctic extension cords are sold everywhere here so if anyone is interested in onw, let me know and we can work something out.
the_tc_life
Explorer
Dec 04, 2013
yes some great ideas indeed. thank you all for your insight.

this is why I brought it up...

keep in mind...we are usually on average around here...mid 30's for highs and lows mid 20's during this time of year.

so watch out for those in the central states and then towards the east...its coming your way. we are in it today here in my area. now, more hot coffee please.

thanks again for your insight.
camperpaul
Explorer
Dec 04, 2013
The shore power cords on my TC and my first TT both had Neoprene insulation which is still flexible at -40°.

Subsequent TTs were equipped with vinyl insulated cords which I immediately replaced with Neoprene cords.
noteven
Explorer III
Dec 04, 2013
Our cord is like handling a piece of copper tubing when it is cold. I mumble swears at the manufacturer and hope they didn't spend the $3 they saved all in one place.

There are some nice ideas here.
bb_94401
Explorer
Dec 04, 2013
A generic twistlock NEMA L5-30 receptacle, plug or connector body for the cord can be found at most good building supply and hardware stores. Finding a water tight version usually means going to a good electrical supply store or using the net.

Marinco makes marine NEMA L5-30 receptacles and the result is a somewhat water proof connection when used with a standard connector body. It just requires more pieces to setup a receptacle. My sailboat connection was corrided after a couple of years in a salt water environment, so they aren't the best.

We used lots of Hubbell twistlock, watertight connectors at work, up to 480 VAC three phase, thus my preference for them since they functioned so well in a wet environment. They can be found at Newark Electric, Allied Electric or other suppliers on the Net if you do a search.

btggraphix - I took your advice on my original post and sealed the edges of the insulation. You should still make the change when it gets warmer ;-)
pianotuna
Nomad III
Dec 03, 2013
Hi btggraphix,

The twist lock is a great system. It costs more. It is harder to find (try Walmart for a twist lock and it will be in vane.)
btggraphix
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
bb_94401 wrote:
Remove the Cord. Install a twist lock connector in the door opening and on the end of the cord.

I completely removed the interior uninsulated, sheetmetal cord box. More inside storage and warmer.

......

Hey BB - thanks for the additional pictures! I still have your comments from when I bought those parts and your description linked and printed. In fact, maybe I can blame you :B for my delay because you did make me "think bigger" and I didn't do the cord because I have 'designs' on that whole box. So instead I procrastinated. :)

Isn't that the same "twist lock" style that pianotuna thinks are too rare to use? It seems like I see them on many C's and other RV's, plus at Camping World, so I thought it was relatively 'standard' out there.

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