GM 2500 ball joint UPDATE

BurbMan wrote:
Just finished installing new ball joints, tie rods and control arm bushings. Wound up replacing the entire upper control arms, since they are stamped steel and deformed quite a bit when attempting to press in new bushings. Lowers are cast and I was able to press in new bushings and ball joints.

Right at 160k now and the BJs had surprisingly little wear. If you moved the stud around the socket they felt tight, but when placed in it's "normal" position where it spends most of it's time, there was a little play. Maybe a 1/16". Nowheres close to being "bad", but hoping to tighten up the front end a little overall.

The lower BJs were a bear....I would have used a stick of dynamite had I had one handy. After I snapped the handle off the pickle fork, all I had left was the ol' heat and beat, and they both finally came loose. My BJ separator tool didn't have enough span to reach down to the end of the stud, so couldn't use it. Off to get an alignment this morning and see how she drives.

I had the same fun day at the carport changing them out on my last Ram. But the satisfaction of the results made it worth the effort.

travelnutz wrote:
MM49,

"Never been under a vehicle"??? Try this on for size. I owned an engineering business and I and my people worked with Ford, GM, amd Chrysler by invite for decades mainly on pickups/vans/and suv's before I'd sold and retired. Been involved in and with front ends and suspensions for decades as well as engine mounts, bumper systems, engine support components mounting brackets, cross car beams/IP beams, frame brackets, etc. Been under more vehicles before you were even born than you probably have since. Many on this and other forums know who I am but you likely will not and that's just fine. GOT IT?

That explains a lot of failed front end parts on all three. Lol! Things have been much better lately. :B

UPDATE: Just had it out on the road and all I can say is WOW what a difference!! No more shaking over bumps and RR tracks, the truck feels as solid as the day it was new. Honestly was not expecting that much of a difference considering the BJs weren't "shot", but it really did tighten up the ride and handling of the truck. Now to finish off with a new set of E-rated Bridgestone Dueler Revo 2's and an alignment on Saturday.

Note for anyone buying Moog parts...Moog now has an "R" series of parts that is categorized as "affordable", ie el-cheapo...the standard quality Moog products are the K and C series.

Just finished installing new ball joints, tie rods and control arm bushings. Wound up replacing the entire upper control arms, since they are stamped steel and deformed quite a bit when attempting to press in new bushings. Lowers are cast and I was able to press in new bushings and ball joints.

Right at 160k now and the BJs had surprisingly little wear. If you moved the stud around the socket they felt tight, but when placed in it's "normal" position where it spends most of it's time, there was a little play. Maybe a 1/16". Nowheres close to being "bad", but hoping to tighten up the front end a little overall.

The lower BJs were a bear....I would have used a stick of dynamite had I had one handy. After I snapped the handle off the pickle fork, all I had left was the ol' heat and beat, and they both finally came loose. My BJ separator tool didn't have enough span to reach down to the end of the stud, so couldn't use it. Off to get an alignment this morning and see how she drives.

I would have them checked. On my GM trucks the factory ones never lasted past 75,000 miles. On my present 2500HD truck there are 9 grease points and I add a lot of grease every 3,000 miles - which the joints need from how many pumps it takes to expand the rubber dust seals with fresh grease.

I change the oil every 7500 miles so it would be foolish to wait for an oil change to grease the front end of the truck. With my GM I use a 90 degree grease fitting on a pistol grip type grease gun and it is not terrible difficult to hit all 9 fittings and to do so with the truck on the ground (ramps do help though).

Stock on GMT400's is 'positive 1.5 inches, per wheel' and assume GMT800's and GMT900's
are likewise/similar

My 10x16's are 'negative 1.5 inches, per wheel'....meaning my track has increased
by about 10.5 inches...out side edge of the tire is that much wider than stock

Any offset from OEM increases the load on the axle bearings. I'm on my second
set of front axle bearings

I am running 265 tires on 8x16 aftermarket rims...the rims keep the stock backset or offset, I'm not sure which is correct, but basically the inside edge of the tire is that same as the stock 6.5" rims, so the extra 1.5" of rim width is all outboard of the stock position...one of things that kills my front wheel bearings early.

I may get under there after Christmas and see what I can see....not so bad working in the garage in the winter, my small heater keeps the temp around 55-60.

I replaced all the bushings, tie rod ends, sway bar ends and ball joints in mine at 185k. I had been running 19.5" tires for 25k and was planning our Alaska trip. I also had 7.4 big block.

Just keep checking and wait on warmer weather if possible.

Am on my 3rd set of tie rod/links and am at +163K miles of extremely
hard miles

Accident got me my second set and were Moog HD, but not the same as
the old Moog parts. that was around 120K miles

3rd set is good and at that time two years ago, also had a new steering
box installed.

Grease all zerks at each engine oil/filter change and use Molyb filled
in my grease gun

The ball joints are tough, though one was replaced when a LandRover
jumped a stop sign and I nailed him. Shearing off the rivets holding
on the upper arm to the upper ball joint. Told the body shop to replace
both upper and lower as a just in case



The drivers side is still OEM and tight.

Note for this and your other thread...folks Don has a big block and
is several hundred pounds HEAVIER than the normal small block on Subs

Toss in over sized tires and the wear and tear is higher than on a
small block

travelnutz wrote:
MM49,

The OP said his vehicle is a GM not a Dodge/Ram/or Fiat product. Front ends/steering/suspensions last a very long time with normal as per the owner's mnual maintenance before needing replacement parts on GM's or perhaps you haven't been reading this or the many other forums to learn that!

Hi travelnutz. Not looking to start an argument or be disrespectful, but I would bet that a lot of the reason the GM front ends of that era last longer than Ford and Dodge/Ram is because they are able to be lubed where the others aren't. My former 03 Ford F-350 and my current 13 Ram 3500 only have grease points on the steering components and the ball joints are non serviceable. I grew up in heavy construction and learned at a very young age that maintenance and lubrication is key to anything lasting a long time. My first truck was an 85 Toyota 4x4 with a solid front axle and had all original front end parts when I sold it because it was always kept lubed. And I assure you the truck was not babied! JMHO.