Heki 2 Skylight Inner Frame Failure

[Mikell]

Anybody had this happen yet to their Heki skylight? The inner frame point where one of the black latches contacts broke. I’ve already replaced the latches once on my 16 year old unit. Now, I’m faced with a different challenge, repairing the inner frame right at the location of one of the latches. A new inner frame is around $300. I thought I would try some JB Weld at the brake, and supplement that repair with some sort of “scabbing” between the broken piece and the surrounding frame area. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

[joerg68]

Not sure what material Heki uses for the frame ... some plastics are very difficult to bond. We have a Heki in our camper, and the plastic "feels" like it can be glued with the right glue. I would double it up with an overlapping strip of ABS plastic or Aluminum (or something else that will adhere well) from the back side.

Degrease and clean the surfaces well and sand with 180, 240 or 320 sandpaper to make the glue adhere well. Use clothespins or similar to keep everything together until dry.

Can't really recommend a glue from here, we have different brand names here in Europe. I would use a good epoxy glue. No cyanacrylates, they bond really well but don't like long term exposure to moisture.

[notsobigjoe]

That will hold solid with some JB weld. Clean It up and sand both sides. Is there any way you can loosen the knob a little bit to not be so tight. I'd try to fix it. These things are real expensive.

[Mikell]

[Bedlam]

I would JB Weld or epoxy the aluminum in addition to some rivets. This will create one solid piece and distribute load better on brittle aged plastic.

[HMS_Beagle]

Sadly, another Heki failure. If it comes to that, you can buy one out of Europe shipped to the US - the whole thing - for less than replacement parts cost here.

[jimh406]

I think aluminum will work. My frame broke years ago in the corner part way. It hasn’t been an issue due to where it is.

[JimK-NY]

Pictures would help.

[Mikell]

Correction. The connection points are part of the inside surface of the exterior frame (not the interior frame). The more I look at it, I’m considering running a 1” wide piece of aluminum bar stock (as thin as practical) down either the inside or outside of the exterior frame plastic channel the piece broke from, and riveting it to that channel. If I place the aluminum stock on the outer surface of that channel, I may be able to reuse the broken piece’s connection point. I could also run a piece of aluminum stock down the inside of the track as well, sandwiching the plastic channel wall between the aluminum.