Heki 2 Skylight Inner Frame Failure

[Mikell]

Anybody had this happen yet to their Heki skylight? The inner frame point where one of the black latches contacts broke. I’ve already replaced the latches once on my 16 year old unit. Now, I’m faced with a different challenge, repairing the inner frame right at the location of one of the latches. A new inner frame is around $300. I thought I would try some JB Weld at the brake, and supplement that repair with some sort of “scabbing” between the broken piece and the surrounding frame area. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

[HMS_Beagle]

Mikell wrote:
It is a ridiculously expensive part.

Unless you buy one from Europe, then it is fairly reasonable. It is, however, not a durable part.

[notsobigjoe]

Mikell wrote:
Thanks. I might not have needed to go all the way along the side with the sandwich, but since the failure was so catastrophic with the stop piece breaking off, and given the age of the skylight, I thought it best. I need to shine it up a little to remove the JB spillover. This fix addressed two problems - 1) the stop piece failure and 2) minimizing failure of the latches (which is the weak link in the skylight’s design).

Mine was cracking and breaking from the Florida sun. It wasn't worth replacing at 700.00 bucks but I did it anyway. I'm still thinking of just having my guy put in a skylight and take the new one out and sell it. I pretty much stay away from the roof work as I'm not that good at fixing leaks and stuff. It is a ridiculously expensive part.

[Mikell]

Thanks. I might not have needed to go all the way along the side with the sandwich, but since the failure was so catastrophic with the stop piece breaking off, and given the age of the skylight, I thought it best. I need to shine it up a little to remove the JB spillover. This fix addressed two problems - 1) the stop piece failure and 2) minimizing failure of the latches (which is the weak link in the skylight’s design).

[notsobigjoe]

That's a great fix! Well thought out. Better than coughing up the bucks for a new one.

[Mikell]

[Mikell]

[Mikell]

[Mikell]

[Mikell]

Well, it’s been a few months since I’ve had the time to attempt to implement my fix. I finally finished it today. I sandwiched the broken section between two slats of aluminum, attached with JB Weld and rivets. It doesn’t look pretty, but it’s not noticeable unless you are looking for it. I was also going to try the YouTube fix I referenced earlier in the thread with the locking bar to provide additional protection; however, my Heki must be a little different than his because the bar would not go straight across the bottom of the skylight bottom (apparently it bows downward slightly. So, I came up with my own version which are just two locking clips. I think this should solve the problem. If you want to try it, you just have to notch the clips to fit. I did place a flat washer in two places on each side at the ends near the clips the same thickness of the aluminum angle used for the clips so I could slip the clip between the HEKI latch and the skylight.

[Mikell]

Regarding the YouTube “fix”, since the HEKI 2 does not have a gap above the latch mount for the angle to slide into, I will need to install some spacers at the 4 points where the mounting screws attach the clear lid to the brackets.This should create the necessary gap

[Grit_dog]

Mikell wrote:
Here’s what I plan on doing after the fix so I don’t have to depend solely upon these sorry latches which also keep breaking.
https://youtu.be/bl2I3a4N2xU
The manual I have for the HEKI 3 Deluxe says it is “suitable for max. speeds of 100 km/hr” (or 62 mph). I usually drive around 60 mph, but occasionally faster. Perhaps speed as well as poor quality are contributors to failure. I didn’t see this speed factor in the manual until just recently.

What a joke! Kinda like the mag mount strobe light that got ripped off the roof of my truck with a gust of wind last week. Reading the fine print, it says not recommended for >50mph....seriously? It's designed and marketed to go on top of an on road vehicle. It held up to 90+mph for a few days, then 80mph with a strong wind gust out of the canyon flipped it.

[Mikell]

Here’s what I plan on doing after the fix so I don’t have to depend solely upon these sorry latches which also keep breaking.
https://youtu.be/bl2I3a4N2xU
The manual I have for the HEKI 3 Deluxe says it is “suitable for max. speeds of 100 km/hr” (or 62 mph). I usually drive around 60 mph, but occasionally faster. Perhaps speed as well as poor quality are contributors to failure. I didn’t see this speed factor in the manual until just recently.

[HMS_Beagle]

I believe the Heki is molded from ASA, which is similar to ABS plastic. I'd use West Systems GFlex, after flame treating it (instructions can be found on the WestSystem.com website). That only takes a second and greatly improves adhesion in many plastics. If you use rivets, be sure to use large backing washers, or you risk further cracking due to concentrating the stresses.

[ticki2]

Mikell wrote:
Correction. The connection points are part of the inside surface of the exterior frame (not the interior frame). The more I look at it, I’m considering running a 1” wide piece of aluminum bar stock (as thin as practical) down either the inside or outside of the exterior frame plastic channel the piece broke from, and riveting it to that channel. If I place the aluminum stock on the outer surface of that channel, I may be able to reuse the broken piece’s connection point. I could also run a piece of aluminum stock down the inside of the track as well, sandwiching the plastic channel wall between the aluminum.

This is the approach I would use . I would use an adhesive but not rely on it alone having the forces of the lock lip on it . Sandwiched with aluminum and riveted will probably hold up , you can only try , I have use similar repair on other projects with success . Good luck .