So Trailer level is another concern of mine, i have been measuring all 4 corners of Trailer only, by that i mean all 4 corners of the I beams under the camper itself. but i have been reading that people measure the very front of the trailer, which in my case is a very different measurement. There are beams that extend from under the I-beams of the camper up to the ball coupler. Those beams are about 4 feet long and are not parallel with the I-beams under the camper, so when i get the I-beams under the camper level those going to the coupler are downward sloping and consequently about 2-3 inches lower.
so my dilemma is do i level the camper or level the entire trailer
wanted to attach a picture but im not allowed. anyone know why?
You have the two main I-beams. Those should be level front to back. That should keep the weight on the trailer axles roughly equal. (make sure you are checking on a level parking lot).
The bottom of the box beams for the a-frame at the front are obviously not going to match the back of the trailer. Once you get the trailer level, then measure the height of the trailer coupler (to the top oft eh socket for the ball. Before adjusting the ball, check how much the truck squats when loaded. It will probably go down an inch or so, so when setting the ball height for level, raise the ball the same amount as the squat you measured. That way wen it squats, the trailer will be back to level.
If you are off by an inch, not a big deal but you do want it close.
Tammy & Mike Ford F250 V10 2021 Gray Wolf Gemini Catamaran 34' Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
I'm going to settle on leveling the camper as opposed to leveling the entire frame, as the majority of the weight from camper is obviously over the two axles. I'm thinking since my front axle is within 1/4 inch of uncoupled distance and camper is slightly leaning down towards the hitch, (under 1") i should be good.
I would say you are good if you kept the weight the same on the fronts. usaly they get a little bit lighter and you just minimize the amount. I have not seen actual weights used to adjust them, the tried and true method is to measure how much the front of the truck rises when you hook up and try get it to within a inch of the starting hight again.
Idealy you want to be as level as possible so you can measure the hight at the fron and at the rear cut the difference in half and thats how much you have to raise, or lower, the hight of your hitch. being out front to back can chage the how your trailer tires hold up if it is extreem enough, a little bit of nose down isn't to bad but if it can be corected I would readjust the hitch hight.
- Keeping the front axle the same is ideal though not common. A couple hundred pounds off isn't a big deal.
- You are at 10.9% hitch weight.... 640/(640+5220)= 10.9%. I like 12-15% but it should be fine. Below 10% is where it really starts to get sketchy.
Since you didn't mention it, I assume the back of the truck isn't squatting noticeably when you hook up.
The one item, that needs adjustment. The camper should be level when hooked up. An inch low isn't a big deal but since you noticed it, I'm assuming it's a few inches low. Your WDH should have adjustments so you can raise/lower the height of the ball. Take some measurements while hooked up to see if how much you need to raise the ball. A side effect of this is you will likely need to adjust the WDH again as raising the hitch will reduce the tension on the bars if everything else is kept the same. If it's the chain style, you may just need to raise it a link or two. If it's the L-bracket style, you probably need to raise it a bolt hole or two. Check the hitch manual as it should describe how to adjust.
Tammy & Mike Ford F250 V10 2021 Gray Wolf Gemini Catamaran 34' Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
I'm not a WDH guru, but it seems like front has not become unweighted which is good. Having front wheel wells returned to original distance is the desired outcome.
Is vehicle level with WDH applied? Trailer level or slightly nose-down is OK.
What about the weights is concerning?
Aspen Trail 2710BH | 470 watts of solar | 2x 6V GC batteries | 100% LED lighting | 1500W PSW inverter | MicroAir on air con | Yamaha 2400 gen
I have been following your post and am surprised that a knowledgable member has not replied. I am following because I am new to WD hitches as well. My best guess is to talk to the dealer where you purchased the hitch and/or the hitch manufacture themselves.
dealer is useless, and hitch manufacturer only is concerned with how much front wheel wells return to original distance. Im more concerned with weight on both axles.
