help me decide on a new WDH

[dolbsss]

Hi all, my previous post was whether or not to buy a new WDH and after this past weekend my decision is set. I'm gonna buy a new one. I have a big trip coming up in August and I don't want the issues I've been having. So, I'm completely open to suggestions here. Let's start with facts.

I have a 2015 2500 HD 6.0L and a 2018 JayFlight SLX 284BHSW(6800lbs dry).

My truck does well with this camper with the old WDH when it was working right and didn't sway too badly when Johnny Semitruck went flying by me. That being said, this will probably be the last WDH I buy(previous was on its 3rd owner, round bar reece). So budget is flexible but I don't want to break the bank if possible. Let's hear your thoughts. Happy 4th all!

[myredracer]

Strolling around CGs, the most popular WDH by far is a simple round bar type and no sway control, regardless of TT length. Second most popular looks to be an equal-i-zer. Least popular are the Reese dual cam and Hensely/ProPride. 'Course, survey says nothing...

We have the Reese dual cam on a 29' TT and love it. No sway, ever. In the 5 years since I installed our dual cam, I've only ever seen 3 at most in CGs. The Reese DC takes more effort and know-how to install and adjust though and has some unique issues that may need to be dealt with sometimes. Worth the effort IMO.

But remember, it's more than just the WDH you choose and how you set it up that affects sway.

[Hannibal]

I think you'll be happy with the Equalizer 4 point 10k. I have one for our 32.5' travel trailer and it takes all of the little bit of wind induced minor sway we occasionally felt with passing trucks and cross winds. I put a small dab of grease on the L brackets before each trip to keep it quiet. I keep the socket bolts torqued to 60ft/lbs and the surfaces lubed. If the bars are easy to move in and out toward the trailer's tongue, time to re torque the bolts. The Equalizer is a simple concept and it simply works.

[HuckleberryHunt]

dolbsss wrote:
ended up getting a 1000/10,000 4 point equalizer locally. I told them I could buy it off amazon for $570 or they could match the price. Guy went with $560 and sold it to me. Gonna try to get it installed later today hopefully if I have time.

I think you'll be happy with that.

I had an EZ lift WDH with the added anti-sway bar on the last trailer. It worked great and I liked the ease of adjustment using the chain links for the WD.

On our new setup I went with the 4 point equalizer 1200/12,000. The adjustment isn't as quick, but once dialed in it is a nice setup.

[dolbsss]

ended up getting a 1000/10,000 4 point equalizer locally. I told them I could buy it off amazon for $570 or they could match the price. Guy went with $560 and sold it to me. Gonna try to get it installed later today hopefully if I have time.

[Huntindog]

dolbsss wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

dolbsss wrote:
Ok it shows the equalizer in 10,000, 12,000 and 14,000lb models. My trailer's dry hitch weight is 695lbs. The price difference between the 10k and 12k is only $30 but the jump up to the 14k is another $70 on top of the $30. In my situation it seems overkill for all 3 but will probably get the 12k because of the price value and potential to maybe go 32 ft TT in the future. Agreed?

I wear a size 12 shoe... Should I buy a size 14, in case I need that size later?

Size the spring bars to the load you have NOW.
What is the GVWR of your TT? Take that and figure 15% for TW. Buy the hitch that most closely matches the result.

Caveat: Some run heavier bars than that formula.. Usually They are compensating for their TVs weak suspension. This approach has some merit, but does not apply in your case.

I don't have suspension issues as you guessed. My only thoughts were that eventually I'm either going 5th wheel on the next camper or with a TT in the 8500lb ballpark. I won't want to upgrade WDH then if I could have spent $30 more now.

It just doesn't work like that. The bars are working springs designed for a specific load.... Sure you can use whatever you want, and many do for just your reason....
BUT.... Why are there different sized bars?
According to that logic, everyone should just buy the heaviest bars they can.

I have owned a 10K, a 12K and now a 14K Equalizer. As I moved up in TTs, I simply sold my old one, usually to the new owner of the TT I was selling... No I did not throw it in. I charged 300.00 for them, and installed and set it up for them. They were happy that they had a good setup, and I had a nice chunk towards my new PROPERLY sized hitch.

[Fordlover]

For what it's worth, I had my 600/6000 Equal-i-zer for about 11 years. I sold it recently for about half of what I paid. I bought a 1200/12000 unit (used)to replace it for less than what I sold my old hitch for, to use on the new camper. Then I ended up with an additional spare 1000/10000 unit that will also be up for sale shortly. From my perspective, buy the hitch you need now, don't try to future proof it, it just isn't that big of an expense.

[mordecai81]

Your loaded tongue weight will probably be 1000lbs or so. I'd go with the 1200lb bars.

[dolbsss]

Lynnmor wrote:

dolbsss wrote:
Ok it shows the equalizer in 10,000, 12,000 and 14,000lb models. My trailer's dry hitch weight is 695lbs. The price difference between the 10k and 12k is only $30 but the jump up to the 14k is another $70 on top of the $30. In my situation it seems overkill for all 3 but will probably get the 12k because of the price value and potential to maybe go 32 ft TT in the future. Agreed?

Why would you not go the company website for the information? FAQ

I'm fully aware of the mathematics of it already, just asking opinions.

[dolbsss]

Huntindog wrote:

dolbsss wrote:
Ok it shows the equalizer in 10,000, 12,000 and 14,000lb models. My trailer's dry hitch weight is 695lbs. The price difference between the 10k and 12k is only $30 but the jump up to the 14k is another $70 on top of the $30. In my situation it seems overkill for all 3 but will probably get the 12k because of the price value and potential to maybe go 32 ft TT in the future. Agreed?

I wear a size 12 shoe... Should I buy a size 14, in case I need that size later?

Size the spring bars to the load you have NOW.
What is the GVWR of your TT? Take that and figure 15% for TW. Buy the hitch that most closely matches the result.

Caveat: Some run heavier bars than that formula.. Usually They are compensating for their TVs weak suspension. This approach has some merit, but does not apply in your case.

I don't have suspension issues as you guessed. My only thoughts were that eventually I'm either going 5th wheel on the next camper or with a TT in the 8500lb ballpark. I won't want to upgrade WDH then if I could have spent $30 more now.

[Huntindog]

dolbsss wrote:
Ok it shows the equalizer in 10,000, 12,000 and 14,000lb models. My trailer's dry hitch weight is 695lbs. The price difference between the 10k and 12k is only $30 but the jump up to the 14k is another $70 on top of the $30. In my situation it seems overkill for all 3 but will probably get the 12k because of the price value and potential to maybe go 32 ft TT in the future. Agreed?

I wear a size 12 shoe... Should I buy a size 14, in case I need that size later?

Size the spring bars to the load you have NOW.
What is the GVWR of your TT? Take that and figure 15% for TW. Buy the hitch that most closely matches the result.

Caveat: Some run heavier bars than that formula.. Usually They are compensating for their TVs weak suspension. This approach has some merit, but does not apply in your case.

[Lynnmor]

dolbsss wrote:
Ok it shows the equalizer in 10,000, 12,000 and 14,000lb models. My trailer's dry hitch weight is 695lbs. The price difference between the 10k and 12k is only $30 but the jump up to the 14k is another $70 on top of the $30. In my situation it seems overkill for all 3 but will probably get the 12k because of the price value and potential to maybe go 32 ft TT in the future. Agreed?

Why would you not go the company website for the information? FAQ

[dolbsss]

Ok it shows the equalizer in 10,000, 12,000 and 14,000lb models. My trailer's dry hitch weight is 695lbs. The price difference between the 10k and 12k is only $30 but the jump up to the 14k is another $70 on top of the $30. In my situation it seems overkill for all 3 but will probably get the 12k because of the price value and potential to maybe go 32 ft TT in the future. Agreed?

[drsteve]

gmckenzie wrote:

drsteve wrote:

gmckenzie wrote:
I have an equalizer. Only downside to it is you can't play with it if you load differently. Once set up you can't just drop an extra chain link if you are towing with or without water. So is I tow with a full load of water, the truck squats a bit more than I like. I think the Blue Ox is better for this.

But this doesn't happen often for me so it isn't a big deal.

Sure you can. Just move the bar saddle on the trailer frame up or down. Each bolt hole gives you about a chain link worth of difference.

Isn't what I consider "playing" with it if I have to break out the wrench and breaker bar. It's nowhere near as simple as dropping a chain link.

My Husky Centerline is the same general design as the Equal-i-zer, and it only takes an end wrench to change the position of the saddle.



The saddle just hangs from the bolts, they have blunt ends that fit into the plate behind, smooth centers, and threads near the heads. So torque is not important. Pull them, move the saddle up or down, replace the bolts and snug them up. Just takes a minute.

I thought the two hitches were the same... Learned something new today.

[dpowli]

NWnative wrote:
Blue Ox SwayPro.....easy hookup and performs as advertised.

X2