Help with sway control / weight distribution

[Greywolf26dbh]

Hi everyone,

We just purchased our first ravel trailer, which we haven't picked up at the dealer yet, and need some help with a hitch setup. The two I am considering are either a equalizer E4 or propride 3p (I know significantly different). The trailer I purchased is a grey wolf 26DBB (31 overall feet) and I'll be towing with a Ford Expedition EL with the tow package. The dry weight of the trailer is 5,622lbs with a 725lb tongue weight and the capacity of the expedition is 8,700 max tow and 890 max tongue.

The trailer has a rear cargo hitch with a 200lb capacity (planning on loading with bikes) and a majority of the storage is under the rear bunks which is behind the rear axel. I am thinking that the weight of these items in the rear will most likely offset the weight of my propane and battery on the tongue. I am also planning on only camping weekends so will not ever have more than 1,000lbs of gear so figuring a total loaded weight of about 6,750.

Any suggestions between the Equalizer and propride with this combination. I know the propride is a lot heavier but is it worth it for the extra stability? My understanding is that with the propride I would be able to drop down to 9 percent tongue weight comfortably, because of the no sway design, to compensate for the extra weight of the hitch. Tongue weight is a concern and with the equalizer I could not go above a 10 or 11 percent tongue weight within my vehicle limitations. Can the Propride and Hensley really tow comfortably and safely with an 8 or 9 percent tongue weight as they claim?

Thanks for any advise.

[cekkk]

Barney S and Dutchman are right. If you have doubts as to what the socket joints and L brackets, etc., are, the manual shows all those parts with their names.

[BarneyS]

dave54 wrote:
Snip...
You two are talking past each other on two different subjects. The round end of the bars that insert up into the hitch should be lubed. The friction sway control surfaces should not.

Nope! Dutchman and I are both on the same page. We are talking about the Equal-i-zer brand hitch as is the OP when he mentioned the E4 hitch. There are no round bars involved and they do not insert up into the hitch head. They are square bars and insert horizontally into brackets that are bolted on to the hitch head and serve as friction surfaces when the hitch is used. Those friction surfaces should be greased - both to reduce wear and to prevent unecessary noise. No grease is needed on the bars themselves where they insert into the brackets.
Barney

[dave54]

BarneyS wrote:

DutchmenSport wrote:
scbwr, I hope you are not putting grease on your Equal-i-zer. It calls for none. If you're putting grease on the L-bracket, you've completely defeated the sway control. Hope you're not doing this. The only grease should be on the hitch ball, and every hitch needs grease there.

I tow a 35 1/2 foot TT. My tow vehicle is a 3500 duly, but the Equal-i-zer works very, very well. Once installed, it's extremely easy to hook up, and .... no grease!

I keep a cover on my hitch ball.

Dutchman,
I think you need to check your owners/installation manual again. Here is what it says on P.23.
"The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and
well lubricated with a good quality lubricant. They should be lubricated before
each trip. Check for damage or abnormal wear at the beginning of each
towing day and replace if necessary. Use a rag to clean dirt and road grit
from all friction surfaces regularly.

And on P.26 of that same manual,
"Lubricating the socket joint may help reduce this noise, and is part of
the required regular maintenance routine. Lubricating the L-bracket joint is
optional."
If you need a copy, I can send a PDF of it to you.
Barney

You two are talking past each other on two different subjects. The round end of the bars that insert up into the hitch should be lubed. The friction sway control surfaces should not.

[BarneyS]

DutchmenSport wrote:
scbwr, I hope you are not putting grease on your Equal-i-zer. It calls for none. If you're putting grease on the L-bracket, you've completely defeated the sway control. Hope you're not doing this. The only grease should be on the hitch ball, and every hitch needs grease there.

I tow a 35 1/2 foot TT. My tow vehicle is a 3500 duly, but the Equal-i-zer works very, very well. Once installed, it's extremely easy to hook up, and .... no grease!

I keep a cover on my hitch ball.

Dutchman,
I think you need to check your owners/installation manual again. Here is what it says on P.23.
"The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and
well lubricated with a good quality lubricant. They should be lubricated before
each trip. Check for damage or abnormal wear at the beginning of each
towing day and replace if necessary. Use a rag to clean dirt and road grit
from all friction surfaces regularly.

And on P.26 of that same manual,
"Lubricating the socket joint may help reduce this noise, and is part of
the required regular maintenance routine. Lubricating the L-bracket joint is
optional."
If you need a copy, I can send a PDF of it to you.
Barney

[cekkk]

My PPride didn't really fit our Eagle due to the shape of the front of the TT, so I switched to the Equalizer and it's been happy life ever since. Hitch up is a snap and it tows like a dream. When we go camping it's never a short trip due to where we live. If you like the PP, PM me. I'd love to get it out of the barn.

[Walaby]

campigloo wrote:
Those are nice hitches but really expensive for short weekend excursions. Would a cheaper hitch with built in sway control an option?

Husky Centerline TS is a nice hitch for about $350 if I recall. When I bought my first trailer, dealer threw the Centerline hitch in for free. I liked it alot and it worked well for that trailer.

I recently upgraded my TV and my trailer, and hence my hitch as well. I have a Blue Ox Sway Pro now. I was back and forth on the Equalizer and Sway Pro, and decided on Sway Pro. I had to upgrade because the Husky hitch max tongue weight is 1200 and I was bumping up against that with the new trailer.

One word of advice. Don't cheap out on the hitch. Doesn't matter if it is a weekend, or full timing, the hitch is probably the single most important safety item you have available to you. Saving a hundred or so is less important than your safety in the end.

But, back to your question, again, the Husky Centerline is a nice setup, similar in design to Equalizer and worked very well for me on my first rig.

Mike

[campigloo]

Those are nice hitches but really expensive for short weekend excursions. Would a cheaper hitch with built in sway control an option?

[DutchmenSport]

scbwr, I hope you are not putting grease on your Equal-i-zer. It calls for none. If you're putting grease on the L-bracket, you've completely defeated the sway control. Hope you're not doing this. The only grease should be on the hitch ball, and every hitch needs grease there.

I tow a 35 1/2 foot TT. My tow vehicle is a 3500 duly, but the Equal-i-zer works very, very well. Once installed, it's extremely easy to hook up, and .... no grease!

I keep a cover on my hitch ball.

[scbwr]

I have a Equalizer hitch and it has performed extremely well for two full seasons. But, I may consider switching to the Blue Ox Swaypro because the design of it minimizes risk of getting grease on clothes, hands etc. Blue Ox Swaypro

[georgefarl1945]

I have a 30 ft Dutchmen # 7200 wet and use equalizer with min. Sway. I have a 2015 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew with tow package. Going on our 7 hrs trip March 1 to Gulf Shore Al. Sway is from large truck passing. I only drive at 65 mph and inside lanes.