Hitch extensions

Thanks Bedlam.

My 20' enclosed has a 10k lb GTWR and weighs about 3500 lbs empty. My trailer typically is loaded 6-8K lbs and I would not think of using something other than SuperHitch and double truss extension (SuperTruss). This is my second go around with this Torklift gear and it has not disappointed me.









BTW: Most 3500 DRW rear axles will be close to their limit while hauling a Host Mammoth. You will have have to watch what you load in the camper and how you load the trailer to avoid overloading an AAM 11.8 or Dana 80.

If you go with a pickup, you will need a 42" extension to clear the Mammoth overhang, but may not be able to fully open the cargo tray with a trailer in tow unless you go to a 48" length. If you get a chassis cab, you will be able to slide the Mammoth almost 9' on a deck before you have interference, so your extension can be shorter.

Boatycall wrote:
Absolutely. Otherwise I would not be able to haul my 12k lb trailer sticking out on a 4' extension. And I have to really reef down on those bars to lift it up.
I've had re-occurring nightmares of my foot being under one of those when it busts loose... Do I need to seek professional help? :B

I haven't seen a professional trailer hooker upper! Is this a WA thing or are they readily available?:B
Brian

I currently have the Reese 48 inch extension, the limit on this is 6,000 lbs with a weight distribution hitch. I am considering a 20 ft cargo trailer (3000 lbs), with a Rzr 4xp (1700 lbs), an ATV (400lbs), maybe a dirt bike(500 lbs). So I will be under the limit of 6000 lbs, just barely. Anyone go this route? It will be for a Host Mammoth not sure what the rear offset is, if I use it at 41 inches I can tow up to 7500 lbs. Obvioulsy I am not going to cheap out if there is a risk, just curious if anyone used the 48 inch standard extension before to the maximum capability.

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Reese/RP45018.html

Absolutely. Otherwise I would not be able to haul my 12k lb trailer sticking out on a 4' extension. And I have to really reef down on those bars to lift it up. I've had re-occurring nightmares of my foot being under one of those when it busts loose... Do I need to seek professional help

After you lock the tongue on the ball, do you jack the trailer back up until you have a good strain? This will make the trailer to hitch an inverted V and reduce the amount of strain required to engage the bars. The more inverted V angle between the trailer and the hitch, the less strain will be required.

When I use to hook up my 7k trailer with 1k tongue weight, I use to pick the tongue back up about 8" to make the bars much easier. I loved it when the campsite had the car and trailer already at the inverted V position, once it was even enough to not even require the pipe to engage the bars.

And as far as needing that help, nope because you have a TC which should ease those nightmares away.

The Equal-I-Zer has better ground clearance, maybe try one of those.
I have one and like it.
I’ve said it before, but, you do have another option: lengthen your trailer tongue so you don’t need an extension. It’ll load better, tow better, and you don’t have all that heavy junk to install and remove every time you load your camper.

Sorry....posted to wrong thread......
TG

I bought a Reece HD WD hitch to use w/my rig.
I have the Super hitch and 48" truss and tow a 20 enclosed trailer.
But IF I install it, the bars & gear will be mere inches from the ground and I fear it will drag every time I hit any bumps or unevenness in the road way at speed. Some of these bridge approaches in the interstares are just horrendously rough.

Id' post a picture but it's too big a PITA on this site.

I have a SuperHitch with a 24" extension and have used it with 500 lb tongue weight AND an Equal-I-zer brand hitch. The advantage is that that hitch uses solid spring bars on L brackets (no chains). The hitching process is to lower the trailer tongue on to the ball, lock the hitch, raise the tongue until you can slide the spring bars on to the "L" brackets, put the locking pins on the brackets, raise the tongue jack, hook up the safety cable, chains and electrical and drive off. No danger to feet or anything else.

I have the Curt extension @ 24".
When towing my 7x14 inclosed bike trailer I run weight distribution. My tongue weight is around 400 lbs. I found some 600 lb bars. I am amazed the truck rides better with WD hooked up, even at low toung weights

Towing my Jeep liberty is 4 down so no WD needed there.