Hitch Selection - TW Questions

[Baja_Man]

I have used both Equalizer brand and Blue Ox. EQ made quite a bot of screeching sounds. BO was quiet. They both worked great.

Considering both with my new to me TT (2011 Outback 250RS). GVWR of 7550#; It has a brochure TW of 640#. After I load trailer and full water tank (50Ga), I would assume it will be between 700-1100. I have a TW scale and will weigh before I decide on which model rated bars/head unit.

My questions are:

1. If TW loaded is 900#-1200#....will a 1500# rated bars to stiff for the application?

2. How much over loaded TW should the hitch size (head/bars) be?

3. Bars (EQ/BO) vs Chains (BO)?

Thanks!

[Grit_dog]

^ Which is further evidence that maybe wdh is only needed WHEN it's actually needed, and not whenever a trailer larger than rowboat on 10" wheels gets hooked up to a 1 ton truck?

[Mickeyfan0805]

Boomerweps wrote:

Baja Man wrote:
Based on one of the responses...

Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH?
Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating?

Chains vs solid bars?

Short answer. NO.
By that logic, you’d have to add all weight in the TV, people, etc.
The WDH is sized by the trailer towed.
WDH weight gets added to truck payload and rear axle load.
In the example above, you would get the next size up available, like a 1000# rated or even a a 1200# rated, depending on your choice of WDH sizes.
I use 400-600# rated bars, next sizes are 600-800 & 800-1200, interchangeable on my hitch head. I could use the 600-800# bars now, depending on my TT loading for tongue weight, but I’m trying to keep the TW within my WDH specs.

I am NOT an expert by any stretch in these things, which is why I go by what the manufacturer states. That said, cargo in front of the rear axle does not lift the front axle, it lowers it - so passengers and cargo in front of that point are not included in the numbers. That is why this impact is limited solely to gear and passengers behind the rear axle.

If you use the Equal-i-zer guide to select your hitch size (see here) they clearly include this in their recommendation. An 1,100 pound HW with nothing in the bed calls for a 1,200 pound hitch. An 1,100 pound HW with 200 pounds behind the rear axle calls for a 1,400 pound hitch.

Everyone goes by their own judgements on how to set-up their rigs, but it is black and white that at least some hitch manufacturers DO included cargo weight behind the rear axle in their recommended calculations.

[Boomerweps]

Baja Man wrote:
Based on one of the responses...

Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH?
Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating?

Chains vs solid bars?

Short answer. NO.
By that logic, you’d have to add all weight in the TV, people, etc.
The WDH is sized by the trailer towed.
WDH weight gets added to truck payload and rear axle load.
In the example above, you would get the next size up available, like a 1000# rated or even a a 1200# rated, depending on your choice of WDH sizes.
I use 400-600# rated bars, next sizes are 600-800 & 800-1200, interchangeable on my hitch head. I could use the 600-800# bars now, depending on my TT loading for tongue weight, but I’m trying to keep the TW within my WDH specs.

[mr_andyj]

The TW can be as light as possible, even zero and your heavy duty springs will still be fine.
They do two things in their spring action. 1. They do move the weight to the front axle taking it off the rear axle, but 2. they might not move any weight if not tensioned up, but when you bounce down the road and the rear of the vehicle dips down, then there will be weight on the bars/hitch and they will be under load and thus resist the downward forces on the hitch, thus keeping the rear of the vehicle from a bottom-out situation - not unlike helper springs on a truck. Helper springs are not in use until the truck sags a crtain amount, enough to drop down and touch the helper springs. Same kind-a thing here with un-tensioned WDH springs.
So, yes, springs will still work with a light load.

If you have noise then you can just put grease on the connection. Grease gets dirt from the road, so clean and re-grease often.

[dodge_guy]

You want to closely match the loaded tongue weight to the lo WD bars. I would not go over.

[Grit_dog]

PS, if you believe the instructions from any wdh manufacturer would recommend NOT needing a wdh, you haven’t learned much about marketing….

[Grit_dog]

Mickeyfan0805 wrote:

Baja Man wrote:
Based on one of the responses...

Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH?
Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating?

Can't speak for all hitches, but Equal-i-zer specifically includes any cargo behind the rear axle in the calculations for hitch size.

Not that I doubted what you said, but read it for myself and I can’t figure out how or why Equalizer would say to use cargo load to calculate hitch load. It literally doesn’t make sense unless someone has a clearer explanation.
What it sounds to me is Eq is attempting to prep folks to buy hitches that also assist in lifting part of the cargo load. I mean, I suppose so, but only applicable if your vehicle is having difficulty with the cargo and tongue weight.
This phenomenon that virtually “any” weight off the front axle is bad, is mind blowing in most any typical situation with a full size truck or suv or larger (hd, diesel).
Think about it. Base model single cab V6 2wd pickup. Lightest front axle curb weight, right? Is it unsafe? Nope.
Add V8 and 4wd. What’s that a few hundred lbs more on the front? What if it handled like the base V6? Oops that’s the same with a little tongue weight off the front.
Just go up from there. Bigger engine, heavier tires and wheels,crew cab, overweight driver and passenger, solid 4wd hd axle and the big one, a diesel.
So what if 1000lb tongue weight takes 250 lbs off the front axle of a V10 4wd F350?
What happens? Not a **** thing other than slightly better front tire wear…
Little common sense and experience goes a lot farther than a $500 steel bandaid between your truck and trailer.
I won’t even get into “sway”. Just like tongue weight, too heavy for truck = needs wdh. Too light of tongue or axles too forward or a lot of weight far aft in the trailer = need for sway control if you can’t change those inherent “conditions.”
So the need for a wdh is somewhat cancelled by the need for sway control. :h

If you don’t believe me, you guys are observant, right. Start watching how many cargo trailers or TT delivery drivers use a wdh compared to weekend warrior TT owners. The difference is staggering. Heck ask a TT hauler if you don’t believe the guy who’s an engineer, mechanic, construction guy and all season trailer tow-er for 30+ years.
There is a time and place for wdhs but ALOT of weekend warriors just drink the koolaid proliferated by RV dealers and websites like this, rather than understanding the basic weights and mechanics of their setups and forcing themselves to be skilled drivers.

[Mickeyfan0805]

Baja Man wrote:
Based on one of the responses...

Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH?
Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating?

Can't speak for all hitches, but Equal-i-zer specifically includes any cargo behind the rear axle in the calculations for hitch size.

[Grit_dog]

Weight in the truck bed has nothing to do with the selection of the appropriate size wdh. However the total load on the rear axle and the capability of the truck has everything to do with the need for a wdh, of which you have no real need, unless your hitch receiver is not rated or able to carry the weight bearing tongue weight, which it is likely not if it's the factory hitch.
Although, real world, I've towed alot more, a long ways with trucks like yours without giving it a second thought.

New Class V hitch is $258, bolt on. Mid grade wdh with shank is close to, or double that amount.

Are you really against taking the setup for a spin and seeing how it handles before spending money to fix a problem that likely doesn't exist?

[Baja_Man]

Based on one of the responses...

Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH?
Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating?

Chains vs solid bars?

[kellem]

Grit dog wrote:

kellem wrote:
Have a 7600# trailer and use 1200# trunnion bars without issue.
Usually carry a bed load and full fresh water tank (60g).
The FWT is located well forward of the axles, something to consider.

I have a 12,800lb gvw trailer, running about 10k ready to camp and use 0# trunnions bars without issue. Tows like it’s on rails.

Still not sure where the brainwashing comes from, but OP ought to tow his trailer first then decide what he wants or needs.

No brainwashing coming from this direction.
I'm towing a scale weight 7600# trailer with a 3/4 ton and much prefer having weight distributed to front axle and also run under speed limit.....err on the side of caution kinda guy.

[Grit_dog]

kellem wrote:
Have a 7600# trailer and use 1200# trunnion bars without issue.
Usually carry a bed load and full fresh water tank (60g).
The FWT is located well forward of the axles, something to consider.

I have a 12,800lb gvw trailer, running about 10k ready to camp and use 0# trunnions bars without issue. Tows like it’s on rails.

Still not sure where the brainwashing comes from, but OP ought to tow his trailer first then decide what he wants or needs.

[wowens79]

When i was buying my Blue Ox, I was on the border between sizes and emailed Blue Ox, and they said to go with the heavier bars if in doubt.

[kellem]

Have a 7600# trailer and use 1200# trunnion bars without issue.
Usually carry a bed load and full fresh water tank (60g).
The FWT is located well forward of the axles, something to consider.