How level for refrigerator?

wnjj wrote:

Bleugoat wrote:
I try to get close to level, within a bubble on my self installed leveling bubbles.

I use Camco Tri-Leveler ramps and like them better than the wooden blocks I used for years. They work like wooden levelers, but are much lighter, easy to store and relatively inexpensive.

Tri-Levelers

They look decent but can they be stacked? I've used 4 or 5 levels of 2x8 under one corner in a really un-level spot. I can also add any extra firewood 2x4 scraps as needed.

I turn one upside down and stack it top of the other, short end to tall end. My Apex has a step up inside the door and they ride there ready to use when I open the door.

Since I was a construction worker (actually an iron worker) for lots of years I've become pretty good at "eyeballing" if something is level or not so I guess I'll just use my "built in level". I'd always want it pretty level for comfort anyway. I just need to get busy and make some leveling blocks. Since I have shop equipment (plasma cutter, mig, tig, drill press, band saw, etc., etc.) I might have to see if I can come up with something aluminum. It would be more durable than the hollow plastic but still light. I think I'll wait till the daytime temps are out of the 100 degree range though.

How do I unsubscribe from this post lol, Its tearing my inbox up!

I've been using 3/4-inch plywood blocking and they are holding up very good.
Modern dimensional lumber split. . .some tight grain old growth fir might hold up better.
Like the wood used to build houses in the 40's

I'll bet that many of you experienced TC'ers can almost tell from the driver's seat how close your rig is to level.

Bleugoat wrote:
I try to get close to level, within a bubble on my self installed leveling bubbles.

I use Camco Tri-Leveler ramps and like them better than the wooden blocks I used for years. They work like wooden levelers, but are much lighter, easy to store and relatively inexpensive.

Tri-Levelers

They look decent but can they be stacked? I've used 4 or 5 levels of 2x8 under one corner in a really un-level spot. I can also add any extra firewood 2x4 scraps as needed.

I try to get close to level, within a bubble on my self installed leveling bubbles.

I use Camco Tri-Leveler ramps and like them better than the wooden blocks I used for years. They work like wooden levelers, but are much lighter, easy to store and relatively inexpensive.

Tri-Levelers

Eyeball level has always worked for me - just get some distance between you and the TC on all sides and you'll know it when you see it.

bikerdib wrote:
I thought about doing something similar with the wood blocks. Great idea using the carriage bolts as dowels. I'd cut more of an angle though to help climbing on. Home made wood blocks will be more durable and much cheaper but a little heavier. I really need to build a front receiver hitch so I can put one of the carriers on the front of the truck.

I have used wood blocks for years, and after every trip I promise myself I will finally break down and go buy the plastic variety. I end up having to use duct tape on the majority of the wood blocks (I usually use 2x8 scraps from around the house) to keep them from splitting.

Supporting the weight of a fully loaded truck on uneven/rocky ground is usually too much for modern "crap" lumber. Plastic is forever, and the ones made specifically for the purpose of leveling fit together like LEGOs.

One of these days I'm gonna get to the RV store......

RichieC wrote:
The plastic leveling block got big gravel wedged into their waffle shape bottoms and split.
I'm currently using wood blocking.

Funny, I just read this post - now what am I gonna do? (with my penchant for procrastination I'll probably keep using the wooden blocks and duct tape!)

2oldman wrote:
Comfortable for human habitation is how I describe it.

Ding ding ding....

We have a winner!

Don't overthink this

My manual says 6 degrees front to back (refrigerator front) and 3 degrees side to side. That is a pretty big range.

Someone posted back a while that they did the calcs for their long bed quad cab truck. The results were it worked out to be about 8" both side to side and front to back difference.

I'm always closer than this when I back for the night, but it's good to know when parking some place for sight seeing.

When traveling down the highway, it doesn't matter as much since the liquids are being jostled around a lot. Though it still bothers me when I'm running 30 minutes up a long uphill.

I use three levels similar to these.
One is positioned front-to-back and one side-to-side at the exterior wall corner near where the electric jack controler is located.
And one at the front side-to-side.

First though, I leveled the camper with the jacks and used a carpenters level to insure that the camper was level.
And then applied the external levels.

When camping I level to withing a half bubble or better.
If all my leveling blocks are employed and I still can't get the camper level, I'll settle for just getting the bubble to touch the center, but only for overnight, not long term.

The plastic leveling block got big gravel wedged into their waffle shape bottoms and split.
I'm currently using wood blocking.