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How to Set Up a WDH

NCMODELA
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, I got a wdh hitch from a friend it is a 14,000 lb max system. I am trying to figure out how to set it up, I am assuming the hex spacer with numbers is the angle of the hitch head? Does anyone have some suggestions. I was going to set the hitch height 2" above the top of the trailer hitch and measure the front and back fenders to see how much they rise and fall. The front should not change once the bars are hooked up. The bars are also supposed to be parallel with the trailer arms right? I guess i don't completely understand where the head angle comes in? Does it take weight off of the tounge?

Thanks
Bill
18 REPLIES 18

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
burber wrote:

...
Not to hijack this thread, but is there a general rule of thumb on the set up to lower porpoising (rocking fore and aft on dips in the road)?


Heh, I put on Heavy Duty shocks, front and rear. But I don't use a WDH and the regular F150 has a wimpy suspension
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

burber
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks guys. After reading the 35 pages of engineering observations about the 2500 Suburban WD issues, I wasn't sure....the summary said to take them to the scale. I saw many of yours' posts on that thread from 2006.

Not to hijack this thread, but is there a general rule of thumb on the set up to lower porpoising (rocking fore and aft on dips in the road)?
'04 Suburban 2500, 4x4, 6.0, 3.73 Jordan brake controller

2013 Rockwood 2703SS

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
burber wrote:
And what should the numbers look like for a correct hook up? Front axle weight about the same as unhooked?
You should consult your TV's Owners Manual for WDH adjustment instructions.

I believe the specification for GM/Chevrolet SUVs says the front fender height should be the same before hitching and after hitching with WD applied.

To me, that implies the front axle load should be approximately the same before hitching and after hitching with WD applied.

Ron

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
burber wrote:

...
And what should the numbers look like for a correct hook up? Front axle weight about the same as unhooked?


When you hitch up your trailer, some weight is lifted off the front axle.

Since 2011 Ford has recommended for its trucks that you only return half of that weight. Equal-i-zer and others suggest that you return between 50 and 100%. Everybody now says do not add any additional weight beyond that.

These recommendations have changed over the years based on some studies done by the SAE and the RV industry.

More info from Ron Gratz
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

anaro
Explorer
Explorer
burber wrote:
brulaz wrote:
NCMODELA wrote:
One question, how do you know how much you are putting on the tounge with changing the angles, I want to be around 12%. Is taking it to the scales the only way?


I think so.

After filling with gas, I get on the CAT scale 3 times and get Drive, Steer and Trailer weights each time:
1) Fully loaded truck+trailer+WDH,bars normal
2) Fully loaded truck+trailer+WDH,bars slacked
3) Fully loaded truck+WDH, no trailer

Using runs 2 and 3, you can calculate the trailer's GVW and Tongue Weight. Run 1 lets you see what the WDH is doing and whether you are over any of your GAWRs or GVWRs.

CAT scales are cheap for multiple runs. Usually only 1$ or 2$ per extra run. So you can try different WDH settings and see what happens pretty quickly.

EDIT: 1400# bars might be too strong for your trailer. You will be at the limit of their adjustment, and will not be able to fine tune as well.


And what should the numbers look like for a correct hook up? Front axle weight about the same as unhooked?


The front axle should be as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. See Wdh set up thread for more info.
2014 Silverado 3500 Duramax, SRW, Crew Cab, 4WD
2014 Palomino Sabre 34REQS -
2011 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BL - sold in 2014

anaro
Explorer
Explorer
I would go 1200 lb because it is possible to go a little over 1000 lbs tongue weight with that tt but if you already have them you can try to set up and see how it does for you.
2014 Silverado 3500 Duramax, SRW, Crew Cab, 4WD
2014 Palomino Sabre 34REQS -
2011 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BL - sold in 2014

burber
Explorer
Explorer
brulaz wrote:
NCMODELA wrote:
One question, how do you know how much you are putting on the tounge with changing the angles, I want to be around 12%. Is taking it to the scales the only way?


I think so.

After filling with gas, I get on the CAT scale 3 times and get Drive, Steer and Trailer weights each time:
1) Fully loaded truck+trailer+WDH,bars normal
2) Fully loaded truck+trailer+WDH,bars slacked
3) Fully loaded truck+WDH, no trailer

Using runs 2 and 3, you can calculate the trailer's GVW and Tongue Weight. Run 1 lets you see what the WDH is doing and whether you are over any of your GAWRs or GVWRs.

CAT scales are cheap for multiple runs. Usually only 1$ or 2$ per extra run. So you can try different WDH settings and see what happens pretty quickly.

EDIT: 1400# bars might be too strong for your trailer. You will be at the limit of their adjustment, and will not be able to fine tune as well.


And what should the numbers look like for a correct hook up? Front axle weight about the same as unhooked?
'04 Suburban 2500, 4x4, 6.0, 3.73 Jordan brake controller

2013 Rockwood 2703SS

NCMODELA
Explorer
Explorer
I just looked and there are 1000lb bars, are these heavy enough or do i need 1200lb bars? I guess i just assumed since it was a 14000 lb hitch it was 1400lb bars

Thanks

NCMODELA
Explorer
Explorer
Oh, okay, I thought bigger was better, I will search for some 1200 bars. Thank you very much.

anaro
Explorer
Explorer
I agree 1400 lb bars are too strong. you probably want 1200 lb bars. my TT was 5700 lbs dry, weighs 7000 lbs loaded. I'm running 1200 lb bars. I wouldn't want heavier.
2014 Silverado 3500 Duramax, SRW, Crew Cab, 4WD
2014 Palomino Sabre 34REQS -
2011 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BL - sold in 2014

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
NCMODELA wrote:
One question, how do you know how much you are putting on the tounge with changing the angles, I want to be around 12%. Is taking it to the scales the only way?


I think so.

After filling with gas, I get on the CAT scale 3 times and get Drive, Steer and Trailer weights each time:
1) Fully loaded truck+trailer+WDH,bars normal
2) Fully loaded truck+trailer+WDH,bars slacked
3) Fully loaded truck+WDH, no trailer

Using runs 2 and 3, you can calculate the trailer's GVW and Tongue Weight. Run 1 lets you see what the WDH is doing and whether you are over any of your GAWRs or GVWRs.

CAT scales are cheap for multiple runs. Usually only 1$ or 2$ per extra run. So you can try different WDH settings and see what happens pretty quickly.

EDIT: 1400# bars might be too strong for your trailer. You will be at the limit of their adjustment, and will not be able to fine tune as well.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

NCMODELA
Explorer
Explorer
Trailer weighs 5700 UVW, estimated 6600 loaded.

anaro
Explorer
Explorer
On the Reese dual cam one turn of the washer on the hitch head is equivalent to 2 links on the chain. Do you have the straight line or the dual cam? As stated above the towing forum has the procedure for you. Use the wheel well measurements and trips to the scales to really check your setup. Also how much does your trailer weigh? 1400 lb bars may or may jot be too strong for what you need.
2014 Silverado 3500 Duramax, SRW, Crew Cab, 4WD
2014 Palomino Sabre 34REQS -
2011 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BL - sold in 2014

NCMODELA
Explorer
Explorer
One question, how do you know how much you are putting on the tounge with changing the angles, I want to be around 12%. Is taking it to the scales the only way?