Forum Discussion

ClayCoops's avatar
ClayCoops
Explorer
Apr 25, 2014

In the TT market, need long beds

We currently have a hybrid with 3 queens. I'm looking to get away from the tents. I use it a lot in the heat of the summer and in the winter for hunting. Condensation, moisture on the tents when putting up, heat/cool air loss... all my main reasons. I also like the idea of getting to the lease and not having to mess with the beds.

But, we are all pretty tall. I'm 6'5", my son is 14 and 6'3" with a lot of growing to do, and my daughter is 13 and 6'2". So the 74" queen beds won't work. I like the floor models with a queen bedroom on one end and bunkhouse on the other side. I have a Tundra with a 10K+ towing capacity so any of the non-fifth wheel models pretty much work.

Can anyone recommend a TT with at least 78" bunks and queen? I don't need 4 bunks, 2 would work.

Thanks for any advice,
Clay
  • ClayCoops's avatar
    ClayCoops
    Explorer
    Apr 28, 2014
    2008Wildcat wrote:
    Look at the Passport line from Keystone.

    The queen bed is a true queen, 60 X 80.

    The 2810 model has 51 X 74 bunks, so the kids may be able to go corner to corner to get more room.


    Thanks, they actually have the bed sizes listed! :)
  • ClayCoops's avatar
    ClayCoops
    Explorer
    Apr 28, 2014
    brulaz wrote:
    ClayCoops wrote:
    I have found one with big bunks. The Jayco Jay Flight Swift 287BHBE has 80" bunks but the queen up front is only 74". Would there be room to change out the mattress for a longer one?


    With my old trailer I went to a lot of trouble extending the bed and putting a full queen mattress.

    But with my new trailer I use a trick that I learned here on the forum. Just before bed-time, pull out the mattress 5-6" and stuff the head space with pillows. Wake up and put it all back. Works fine for me but I'm just 6'1".


    Good idea...
  • ClayCoops's avatar
    ClayCoops
    Explorer
    Apr 28, 2014
    handye9 wrote:
    Here are links to manufacturer web sites.

    You can look at floor plans, bed sizes, tank sizes, trailer sizes, and weights. Besides finding a full size bed, you'll want to stay away from those with a wall at both ends of the bed.

    Forest River

    Palomino

    Primetime

    Shasta

    Thor Industries

    Keystone

    KZ Inc


    Thanks, I've been trying to get that information from the manufacturer's websites for a couple of week now. Less than half show the actual dimensions of the beds. That is the main reason I'm looking for information here.
  • brulaz's avatar
    brulaz
    Explorer
    Apr 26, 2014
    ClayCoops wrote:
    I have found one with big bunks. The Jayco Jay Flight Swift 287BHBE has 80" bunks but the queen up front is only 74". Would there be room to change out the mattress for a longer one?


    With my old trailer I went to a lot of trouble extending the bed and putting a full queen mattress.

    But with my new trailer I use a trick that I learned here on the forum. Just before bed-time, pull out the mattress 5-6" and stuff the head space with pillows. Wake up and put it all back. Works fine for me but I'm just 6'1".
  • 2008Wildcat's avatar
    2008Wildcat
    Explorer
    Apr 26, 2014
    Look at the Passport line from Keystone.

    The queen bed is a true queen, 60 X 80.

    The 2810 model has 51 X 74 bunks, so the kids may be able to go corner to corner to get more room.
  • Artum_Snowbird's avatar
    Artum_Snowbird
    Explorer
    Apr 26, 2014
    Well, back to the OP's problem..

    I so totally agree. The RV market in general thinks we are for the most part a bunch of shorties.. I am only six feet, but sleeping in a 74 or 76 inch bed drove us right out of our nice Regency and back into a great camper with a full length and width queen size bed.

    And yet... those that are six foot six now, they have some that give them the head clearance to be inside and upright, but it seems we grow taller and taller yet as new generations sprout. It's really time for the 84 inch bed, and to that end make it square so it can be turned 90 degrees when it needs to turn.

    Would "Please?" help?
  • handye9's avatar
    handye9
    Explorer II
    Apr 25, 2014
    ClayCoops wrote:
    Thanks! I probably should have mentioned that I have after market (beefed up) springs and air bags. My only point was that I'm not very limited other than no fifth wheels...


    Your ratings are based on frame, power train, drive train, body configurations, suspension, brakes, wheels, and tires. Aftermarket add ons, might make the truck feel a little more stable, but, while they are doing that, they don't change any of your ratings, except payload. They reduce that by whatever they weigh.

    I'm just saying, proceed with caution.

    I've been there and done that, with a Nissan Titan. It had 9500 lbs towing capacity and 1500 lbs of payload. At the time, I had a TT with 900 lbs of tongue weight and 7600 lbs loaded weight. When I deducted 200 lbs for a bed cap and mat, 400 lbs for occupants and cargo, and 100 lbs for the hitch, I was over weight on GVWR / payload. I added Timbren SES and a sway bar, still, towing on windy days, was not pleasant.

    Good Luck
  • sljkansas's avatar
    sljkansas
    Explorer
    Apr 25, 2014
    The upgrades are good, but the brakes are still the same as the tires. Also what about the transmission? do you have a large enough cooler on it or do you need a larger one?
    Don't put yourself and family at risk by not having the truck properly sized for your trailer
  • ClayCoops's avatar
    ClayCoops
    Explorer
    Apr 25, 2014
    handye9 wrote:
    ClayCoops wrote:
    I have a Tundra with a 10K+ towing capacity so any of the non-fifth wheel models pretty much work.
    Thanks for any advice,
    Clay


    Don't get stuck on that 10,000 lb towing number.

    Besides towing capacity, your truck also has ratings for payload (cargo carrying capacity), and a seperate rating on the hitch itself. Your real towing capacity is limited to weakest link in all of your ratings. Payload will likely be your weak link. You will run out of payload, before you get close to 10,000 lbs towing.

    Should be a sticker on your drivers door post. It will show GVWR, payload, and tire loading info. According to Toyota's website your payload should be between 1410 and 1565 lbs. Any added accessories (bed liner, cap, etc) deduct from payload, pound for pound.

    That payload or CCC number is the room you have for weight of everybody and everything in or on your Tundra, weight distribution hitch (about 100 lbs), and trailer tongue weight. A 10,000 lb travel trailer, would need about 1400 lbs of your payload.

    This statement is from Toyota's website:

    33. Before towing, confirm your vehicle and trailer are compatible, hooked up and loaded properly and that you have any necessary additional equipment. Do not exceed any Weight Ratings and follow all instructions in your Owner's Manual. The maximum you can tow depends on the total weight of any cargo, occupants and available equipment.


    Thanks! I probably should have mentioned that I have after market (beefed up) springs and air bags. My only point was that I'm not very limited other than no fifth wheels...

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