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installing 12v outlets

hedge
Explorer
Explorer
I want to install a few more 12v outlets in the camper, it only came with 1 for some reason.

Is the normal way of doing this to run a line all the way back to the converter or can I just tap into any 12v source I find close to the location? I mostly just want them to charge phones/ipad which I think is a max of 2A.

Also should each one be fused or is if I tap off an existing wire wouldn't it already be fused?

I looked behind the converter but the wiring was way more complex than I expected, I see a bunch of wires going to a bus bar but I'm thinking this is a ground bar.
2017 F350 Platinum DRW
2013 Adventurer 89RB
22 REPLIES 22

bka0721
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mello Mike wrote:
bka0721 wrote:
Mello Mike wrote:
The best way to do this is to run new wiring to the 12v fuse panel, but this is only an option if you have openings on your fuse block. Otherwise, it's perfectly fine to tap into an existing wire, but I would only do this if the wire I was tapping into was a heavy gauge wire like 12 AWG. In my present camper I've done both. Yesterday, I installed a Blue Sea 360 Panel that has a 12v outlet on one side and a dual USB charging port on the other. I ran new 12 AWG wire to the 12v fuse panel for this new panel. The full details on the install are in my blog.


My question would be, if you are installing this closer to the batter compartment, why couldn't you install it right from the battery with an inline fuse? Having this direct would lessen the AmpH loss going through the Fuse box which then goes to the battery. Thus you just cut out the Middle Man. I would look at this as the same as installing an auxiliary item, such as some Off Road Lights on a Front Bumper.

b


Hi Bryan. Sure, going this route works well, too, especially if it's closer than the fuse block. The only negative going this route is if you have a central battery monitor. You wouldn't have a truly accurate reading for amph and amp usage with this wire connected directly to the batteries.
Good point, then I would just attach the lead to the power side of the shunt to the battery monitor, just like anything else you wish to have included in your use distribution monitored by the monitor. Clip here or clip there, works.

b
08 F550-4X4-CC-6.4L Dsl-206"WB GVWR17,950#
09 Lance 1191
1,560wSolar~10-6vGC2-1,160AmpH~Tri-Star-Two(2)60/MPPT~Xantrex 2000W
300wSolar~2-6vAGM-300AmpH~Tri-Star45/MPPT~Xantrex 1500W
16 BMW R1200GSW Adventure
16 KTM 500 EXC
06 Honda CRF450X
09 Haulmark Trlr

Mello_Mike
Explorer
Explorer
bka0721 wrote:
Mello Mike wrote:
The best way to do this is to run new wiring to the 12v fuse panel, but this is only an option if you have openings on your fuse block. Otherwise, it's perfectly fine to tap into an existing wire, but I would only do this if the wire I was tapping into was a heavy gauge wire like 12 AWG. In my present camper I've done both. Yesterday, I installed a Blue Sea 360 Panel that has a 12v outlet on one side and a dual USB charging port on the other. I ran new 12 AWG wire to the 12v fuse panel for this new panel. The full details on the install are in my blog.


My question would be, if you are installing this closer to the batter compartment, why couldn't you install it right from the battery with an inline fuse? Having this direct would lessen the AmpH loss going through the Fuse box which then goes to the battery. Thus you just cut out the Middle Man. I would look at this as the same as installing an auxiliary item, such as some Off Road Lights on a Front Bumper.

b


Hi Bryan. Sure, going this route works well, too, especially if it's closer than the fuse block. The only negative going this route is if you have a central battery monitor. You wouldn't have a truly accurate reading for amph and amp usage with this wire connected directly to the batteries.
2016 Northstar Laredo SC/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Dometic CR110 DC Compressor Fridge
2013 Ram 3500 4x4/6.7L Cummins TD/3.42/Buckstop Bumper with Warn 16.5ti Winch/Big Wig Rear Sway Bar/Talons w/SS Fastguns
My Rig
1998 Jeep Wrangler
US Navy Ret.

bka0721
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mello Mike wrote:
The best way to do this is to run new wiring to the 12v fuse panel, but this is only an option if you have openings on your fuse block. Otherwise, it's perfectly fine to tap into an existing wire, but I would only do this if the wire I was tapping into was a heavy gauge wire like 12 AWG. In my present camper I've done both. Yesterday, I installed a Blue Sea 360 Panel that has a 12v outlet on one side and a dual USB charging port on the other. I ran new 12 AWG wire to the 12v fuse panel for this new panel. The full details on the install are in my blog.
I like the set up. Looked it up and saw it was about $50. A lot for a faceplate, but still like how nice the finished look is. With the new iPhones' and iPads having increased amperage, a lot of the older USBs don't work for them.

My question would be, if you are installing this closer to the batter compartment, why couldn't you install it right from the battery with an inline fuse? Having this direct would lessen the AmpH loss going through the Fuse box which then goes to the battery. Thus you just cut out the Middle Man. I would look at this as the same as installing an auxiliary item, such as some Off Road Lights on a Front Bumper.

Always looking forward to your next upgrade. Thanks for sharing.

b
08 F550-4X4-CC-6.4L Dsl-206"WB GVWR17,950#
09 Lance 1191
1,560wSolar~10-6vGC2-1,160AmpH~Tri-Star-Two(2)60/MPPT~Xantrex 2000W
300wSolar~2-6vAGM-300AmpH~Tri-Star45/MPPT~Xantrex 1500W
16 BMW R1200GSW Adventure
16 KTM 500 EXC
06 Honda CRF450X
09 Haulmark Trlr

Mello_Mike
Explorer
Explorer
The best way to do this is to run new wiring to the 12v fuse panel, but this is only an option if you have openings on your fuse block. Otherwise, it's perfectly fine to tap into an existing wire, but I would only do this if the wire I was tapping into was a heavy gauge wire like 12 AWG. In my present camper I've done both. Yesterday, I installed a Blue Sea 360 Panel that has a 12v outlet on one side and a dual USB charging port on the other. I ran new 12 AWG wire to the 12v fuse panel for this new panel. The full details on the install are in my blog.

2016 Northstar Laredo SC/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Dometic CR110 DC Compressor Fridge
2013 Ram 3500 4x4/6.7L Cummins TD/3.42/Buckstop Bumper with Warn 16.5ti Winch/Big Wig Rear Sway Bar/Talons w/SS Fastguns
My Rig
1998 Jeep Wrangler
US Navy Ret.

narcodog
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have installed 3 extras and just tapped into existing wiring. Be sure to get heavy duty receptacles.

hedge
Explorer
Explorer
I'd like to avoid the inverter. Don't really want to go DC->AC->DC. But you're right it would solve the distribution problem although I'd have to run the entire camper off the inverter. I also don't know how to turn the charger side of the converter off.

I just wish the manufacturers would install more 12v outlets.
2017 F350 Platinum DRW
2013 Adventurer 89RB

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Install a small inverter behind the main fuse/breaker panel. Wire to the existing 120v circuits and you have power where needed.

Gripnriprod
Explorer
Explorer
I installed 2 12v "cigarette lighter" outlets and just tapped into existing wiring near the reading lights at the the bed headboard. Easy access to the wiring and perfect for charging the DW's iPad and my iPhone or Kindle. We have had zero problems with this.
'11 GMC 3500hd SLT DRW D/A 4x4 Spray-in, Air Bags w/comp & controls, TL, Superhitch, 48" Supertruss, 9.5t Warn, front rcvr, Fox Shocks, '11 AF 1140, DB, AC, Gen, Solar, Thermal Windows, Wardrobe, Rear & Side Awnings, 18' Lund/40hp Honda 4 stroke