I think I've got this all figured out, but wanted to run it by the good forum folks to see if I'm missing anything.I want to add a 12v outlet near my radio, and a cutoff switch for the radio itself. I'm planning on installing this.The switch will control the 12v outlet, radio, and voltmeter. The USB ports will stay powered regardless of the switch. I have full/easy access to the back of the radio, and all the wiring is clearly/neatly labelled (lucky me!). I also have the manual with wiring diagram if needed. the radio is a Jensen jcd2010So what I think I have to do is tap into the power going to the radio +12VDC BATTERY (memory) to power the USB (always on). Then the radio +12VDC SWITCHED (ACC) will go to my new switch, acting basically as the ignition if the radio were in a car. This will allow me to shutoff the radio so that darn superbright display won't keep me up at night, but I won't lose presets/clock.Is it that straightforward or am I missing something? I've done a lot of house wiring/electrical, but never DC, so just double checking. I plan on using 12GA stranded wire and crimp connectors to tap into the existing wiring.

I think you have the wiring layout right. Ideally, I would want two switches, one to control 12V to the radio and one to control 12V to the power ports and the gauge but your circuits will work.Do you know how to solder? In this application, a soldered connection may be more durable than a crimped connector.

Radio doesn't have a standard off/on switch that would do the job?? Otherwise, it sounds good from here. Might want to check fuse size on the radio circuit.

Johno02 wrote:Radio doesn't have a standard off/on switch that would do the job?? Otherwise, it sounds good from here. Might want to check fuse size on the radio circuit.the radio turns off, but not the display. it's pretty much a really bright annoying clock when its "off". I think currently the +12v for memory and +12v for ACC are wired together, so both are always on.

westend wrote:I think you have the wiring layout right. Ideally, I would want two switches, one to control 12V to the radio and one to control 12V to the power ports and the gauge but your circuits will work.Do you know how to solder? In this application, a soldered connection may be more durable than a crimped connector.The reason for wanting 2 switches, is that just to avoid "leaking" power when not in use? I'd like to keep USBs separate to charge phones overnight, but without the radio all lit up.I've never soldered wire before, but plenty of copper water pipes. Pretty similar?The reason I figured crimped would be fine is because that's how the radio connections were already done, from the dealer (TT was purchased new).

your " usb always on" maybe a problem IF you store your trailer "for a bit".... most usb "adapters" always draw power whether anything is plug into them or not. Hence there will always be a draw if you have no switch to cut power to it... sometimes "parasitic draws" can add up unexpectantly... :-(

adding 12v outlet and switch | Good Sam Community

westend
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017
I think you have the wiring layout right. Ideally, I would want two switches, one to control 12V to the radio and one to control 12V to the power ports and the gauge but your circuits will work.

Do you know how to solder? In this application, a soldered connection may be more durable than a crimped connector.
Johno02
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017
Radio doesn't have a standard off/on switch that would do the job?? Otherwise, it sounds good from here. Might want to check fuse size on the radio circuit.
danimal53
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017
Johno02 wrote:
Radio doesn't have a standard off/on switch that would do the job?? Otherwise, it sounds good from here. Might want to check fuse size on the radio circuit.

the radio turns off, but not the display. it's pretty much a really bright annoying clock when its "off". I think currently the +12v for memory and +12v for ACC are wired together, so both are always on.
danimal53
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017
westend wrote:
I think you have the wiring layout right. Ideally, I would want two switches, one to control 12V to the radio and one to control 12V to the power ports and the gauge but your circuits will work.

Do you know how to solder? In this application, a soldered connection may be more durable than a crimped connector.

The reason for wanting 2 switches, is that just to avoid "leaking" power when not in use? I'd like to keep USBs separate to charge phones overnight, but without the radio all lit up.

I've never soldered wire before, but plenty of copper water pipes. Pretty similar?

The reason I figured crimped would be fine is because that's how the radio connections were already done, from the dealer (TT was purchased new).
budwich
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017
your " usb always on" maybe a problem IF you store your trailer "for a bit".... most usb "adapters" always draw power whether anything is plug into them or not. Hence there will always be a draw if you have no switch to cut power to it... sometimes "parasitic draws" can add up unexpectantly... :-(
danimal53
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017
budwich wrote:
your " usb always on" maybe a problem IF you store your trailer "for a bit".... most usb "adapters" always draw power whether anything is plug into them or not. Hence there will always be a draw if you have no switch to cut power to it... sometimes "parasitic draws" can add up unexpectantly... :-(

yep, whenever in storage I pull the fuse by the battery anyway, killing all power draws. the fuse acts as my battery cutoff switch. So I'm not worried about the storage parisitic draw.

Thanks for the tips guys!
RoyB
Explorer II
Apr 12, 2017
This is my JENSEN RADIO setup in my OFF-ROAD POPUP.

The Jensen FM Radio has its own radio ON-OFF push button that when operated will completely shut down the radio and disable all of the presets-everything etc...

My idea was to add the ACC-IGNITION switch that you see to the right of the Jensen radio.

Roy's Image

When I show up at new location then I turn on the main radio push button switch and the ACC-INIGITION and set the different push buttons station selector. When I get ready to turn 'OFF' the radio after doing all of this I will only use the ACC-IGNITION switch on the right side to turn off the radio. Leaving the main push button for the radio 'ON' keeps all of my push buttons settings for this location active...

I use the FRONT-REAR Slider speaker control on the Jensen Radio for the Inside-both-outside speakers on my trailer...

To listen to the FM RADIO I just flip on the side switch and continue to use my station push button settings...

When we go to a new location we have go through all this again..

Clear as mud huh...

Roy Ken
corvettekent
Explorer
Apr 12, 2017
budwich wrote:
your " usb always on" maybe a problem IF you store your trailer "for a bit".... most usb "adapters" always draw power whether anything is plug into them or not. Hence there will always be a draw if you have no switch to cut power to it... sometimes "parasitic draws" can add up unexpectantly... :-(

I have three of these USB's in my trailer and they are on 24/365 with no power problems.
dewey02
Explorer II
Apr 12, 2017
danimal53 wrote:
I think I've got this all figured out, but wanted to run it by the good forum folks to see if I'm missing anything.

I want to add a 12v outlet near my radio, and a cutoff switch for the radio itself. I'm planning on installing this.

The switch will control the 12v outlet, radio, and voltmeter. The USB ports will stay powered regardless of the switch. I have full/easy access to the back of the radio, and all the wiring is clearly/neatly labelled (lucky me!). I also have the manual with wiring diagram if needed.

the radio is a Jensen jcd2010

So what I think I have to do is tap into the power going to the radio +12VDC BATTERY (memory) to power the USB (always on). Then the radio +12VDC SWITCHED (ACC) will go to my new switch, acting basically as the ignition if the radio were in a car. This will allow me to shutoff the radio so that darn superbright display won't keep me up at night, but I won't lose presets/clock.

Is it that straightforward or am I missing something? I've done a lot of house wiring/electrical, but never DC, so just double checking. I plan on using 12GA stranded wire and crimp connectors to tap into the existing wiring.

I did nearly the same modification on my Starcraft 235fb. I included an on/off switch for the radio, and on/off switch for the USB port, a USB port, and a 12volt outlet for a fan that I can mount magnetically to the wall by the dinette. But I have mine wired so I turn the radio and USB completely off to eliminate their parasitic loads, even though they are very small. The only problem is that the radio re-sets each time you turn it completely off, but I can deal with that. It is very straightforward once you sort out and identify the spaghetti bowl of wiring behind the radio. I removed the voltage monitor because I've got one elsewhere. I put the on/off switch for the USB in its place. Good luck, I think you have it figured out.
seaeagle2
Explorer
Apr 12, 2017
Have you tried dimming the display, somewhere in the menu there should be a way to dim the display. On the dimmest, our Jensen isn't very bright.