Installing scissor jacks???

BAL jacks and self tapping screws. Had them on 3 different trailers with no problems. Periodically spray them with SuperLube.

Retired JSO wrote:

rbpru wrote:
Two of mine are bolted on. I had two replaced and they were welded on.

Personally I would drill and bolt them as already suggested.

Plain ole drill screws work just fine. The only thing the screws do is hold the jack when not in use. I have 6 bal jacks. 4 on the corners and 2 just ahead of the front axle. That axle jack has helped greatly taking the spring bounce away.

Self tap screws can indeed work, BUT, the OP was asking about real nuts and bolts and how to go about that..

Self-tap screws may be better in some respects in the fact that if the jacks bottom out on something solid, the screws will most likely give instead of the frame or jack..

Seen quite a few severely bent jacks on the back of trailers since the jacks tend to stick down lower than anything else under the trailer.. Worse on longer trailers as they do tend to drag more than short trailers..

My 26ft trailer drags a lot more than my previous 20ft trailer..

I would rather have the jack come off without damaging the trailer frame when dragging or hitting a solid object..

After seeing bent jacks, I went the old school route of not attaching jacks, especially on my 26ft TT.

Food for thought.

rbpru wrote:
Two of mine are bolted on. I had two replaced and they were welded on.

Personally I would drill and bolt them as already suggested.

Plain ole drill screws work just fine. The only thing the screws do is hold the jack when not in use. I have 6 bal jacks. 4 on the corners and 2 just ahead of the front axle. That axle jack has helped greatly taking the spring bounce away.

plasticmaster wrote:
With the frame being a rectangular tube, how could I drill a hole and get a bolt and nut in there to mount it? I may have to use self tapping screws.

You would have to put a steel tube to create a spacer through the frame tubing otherwise risk crushing the frame tubing.

Basically would have to drill oversized holes to accommodate tubing with a large enough inside diameter for your bolts to fit through.

I would not attempt to bolt through a tubing frame without reinforcement like a spacer.

Personally attached jacks are over rated, while they are a short cut, they often get damaged or like around my area heavily rusted from road salt..

I bought 4 auto scissor jacks and modified them by welding about a 8" long piece of "C" channel to the tops. The "C" channel is wide enough to fit around the trailer frame and the 8" length keeps the jack from "rocking" back and forth.

I modified one of the jack handles by cutting off the offset part and then I can use my cordless drill to wind them up and down in a hurry.

Yep, I do have to remove and store them, but they don't rust up or get damaged.

4,000 lb auto scissor jacks typically sell for $20 each or you can often get deals at your local auto scrap yard..

I would not use bolt-on on a tubular frame. A heavy tubular frame where the tube is strong enough not to collapse could be a different story. If you can get the nuts inside the outer wall of the tube could work. I would still be concerned over ripping tube out.
Internior corrosion would be my next concern bolting straight through.
Yes, even with self tapping screws corrosion can be an issue if some type of corrosion protection is not used.

I added additional jacks to my previous camper. I had to pre-drill the hole in the trailer frame, just slightly smaller than the self tapping screw. It still took all my strength to screw them in, but once there, they were meant to never be undone.

If I were you, I'd leave the electric ones there and just add 4 more manual ones. Place them strategically for the maximum coverage. The more you have, the better. I think, even with this arrangement, you will still experience trailer shake though.

With the frame being a rectangular tube, how could I drill a hole and get a bolt and nut in there to mount it? I may have to use self tapping screws.

Two of mine are bolted on. I had two replaced and they were welded on.

Personally I would drill and bolt them as already suggested.

I would start by measuring the distance from the frame to the ground. Get a jack that the mid operating point is about one half the distance. If you get a jack that is nearly maxed out, it will be wobbly.
Bal jacks would be a good choice.
Bal
Since the bolts are only to hold jacks in place, there is no reason not to use the self-tapping screws. Make sure you use the correct size drill bit.

I've had good luck with the Bal jacks. Yes you can use the heavy duty hex-head self tap screws, that likely come with them.

Jerry