Ok...... Got another Christmas Camping trip planned in the south west where there will be snow & etc...The last couple of camping trips I had my dump valves & or tank froze solid & its always an issue to keep the fresh water fluid as well.So I'm looking for the latest affordable options at keeping all this properly operating as it should.

At the very least dump in some rv antifreeze? Or run another duct tube from furnace down to that compartment.I added more insulation by using the 1/2 inch foam used for a sleeping bag pad used by pack packers. sliding it into various places. Also when rv builders cut out for the tail lites they don't insulate behind them. I went about finding ways to better insulate my camper which that is only one of many ways. I don't like fiberglass insul so I bought some cheap pillows, cut them open and used the fiberfill out of the pillow for places that need stuffing around wiring and other odd places.You will find many places not insulated very well if you start studying your camper in all the places most don't put the effort into investigating. I basically lowered the amount of furnace run time by going crazy with this mod. Also the duration between furnace off and on times increased notably.

My Truck camper has no compartment for the dumps, its an '85 Lance 900 & all is open & exposed behinds the back bumper under the camper.2 years ago I spent an hour chipping ice away & using a heat gun trying to thaw it out & then realized the tank was a solid block & so it was a wasted effort.I'm thinking about either 12 volt or 110 heater tapes & or wraps?any one have experience with these and recommend the best way to go about it?The fresh water so far has only froze once in the intake to the toilet & I learned right away keeping the bathroom door open at night so the heat goes in there as well solves this issue.

I would build a compartment around it. Flash it in so no leaks and insulate. open it up inside to the ambient camper belly temperature. That's how my Northern Lite camper is only they run one heat duct down to the camper belly somewhere.It helped a lot to insulate my campers basement floor and sides. Before that I could feel the floor getting very cold. And then I could feel a draft where the main wire loom runs down to the camper belly under the convertor. I got in there and insulated all around the wires crooks and crannies. That helped the most but then we are talking about exposed dump valves aren't we :S

For sub-freezing camping in our old Alpenlite, I installed shutoff valves so only the kitchen sink had fresh water. The bathroom plumbing lines were open (drained) and blown dry.We dumped pink antifreeze to "flush" the toilet into the black tank. And filled the gray tank about 1/3 with more pink antifreeze.We camped down to 19 degrees F, with exposed pipes, and never a freezing problem.

Use 3/4" foam board to wrap the tanks. Either secure with galv sheet metal for long term or just use tape for single trip. You could lay a piece or two of heat tape along the bottom of the tank before you put the bottom foam piece up against the tank.For the valve, wrap with a heat tape around the valve and cover a towel and plastic bag, then tape to keep the bag from flapping. This will keep it dry and warm.I would also set the camper on a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 foam board. Use the foam tube for wrapping pipes to go between the fender and camper after you set up camp. Finally, the reflectix or foam board to fit the windows you don't care about seeing through. For the ones you do want to see out, use a piece of acrylic sheet and tape it in with the blue painters tape. I used a band saw to cut mine close to size than a file to finish the fit. Finally added a piece of 3/8"x1/2" foam gasket to prevent direct metal contact. Makes a huge difference.Between the foam under, foam in two windows and escape hatch over the bed, acrylic in the two windows by the dinnette, I can heat the TC with a 600 watt fan forced heater down to about 25* before the furnace starts to cycle.

Looking for tips on our 2016 Christmas camping prep?

Blanco1
Explorer
Oct 09, 2016
d3500ram wrote:
No disrespect towards Jim as his advice is quite sage, but how much salt are we talking about and for how long?

What I mean is this- if you trip is not all winter long then my opinion is that anything to help keeping the tanks from freezing is a plus. I had my gray valve freeze up upon return from a hunting trip... no fun laying on one's back in 20^ weather with a heat gun trying to un-stick it! Besides, if there is the possibility of rinsing affected components in a warm environment as soon as possible after the outing then it is 'prolly not much different from driving your rig in winter conditions when DOT puts down salt on the roads.

Very good point it would only be once a year during our Christmas/Newyaers putting that lat about 2 weeks & then FLUSHED!
bb_94401
Explorer
Oct 07, 2016
Ultraheat makes RV tank heaters and dump valve heaters (to thaw out a frozen valve). You might consider their products. The dual voltage one is appealing as you can use it on 120VAC (if a hookup or recharging batteries by generator) and on 12VDC while driving or carefully depending on the size of your battery bank

I wouldn't put salt as a solid in either the gray or black tanks as Murphy's law would have it get stuck in your shutoff valve and either prevent closing or damage the seal. Replacing the dump valve while possible is a less than desirable task.

If you are adding RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) or -40 Windshield washer fluid (Methanol), whichever is less expensive, remember that the freezing point depression is effected by dilution.

The more you dilute it the higher the freezing point. Dilute either by four fold and the freezing point is around 25F. Eight fold dilution and the freezing point is around 28F.
JumboJet
Explorer
Oct 06, 2016
I camp at my hunting grounds in the Ozark mountains October to January. I flush the toilet with RV Antifreeze and pour a gallon down the grey water tank. I use bottled water for drinking and carry water in jugs for bathing. I heat the bath water on the stove.

It is only me in the camper so no problem.
d3500ram
Explorer III
Oct 05, 2016
No disrespect towards Jim as his advice is quite sage, but how much salt are we talking about and for how long?

What I mean is this- if you trip is not all winter long then my opinion is that anything to help keeping the tanks from freezing is a plus. I had my gray valve freeze up upon return from a hunting trip... no fun laying on one's back in 20^ weather with a heat gun trying to un-stick it! Besides, if there is the possibility of rinsing affected components in a warm environment as soon as possible after the outing then it is 'prolly not much different from driving your rig in winter conditions when DOT puts down salt on the roads.
Blanco1
Explorer
Oct 05, 2016
jimh425 wrote:
The concern about rust from salt is more about drips etc impacting the handle on the valves or anywhere the hose touches.

Oh ok, that makes sense.
jimh406
Explorer III
Oct 04, 2016
The concern about rust from salt is more about drips etc impacting the handle on the valves or anywhere the hose touches.
Blanco1
Explorer
Oct 04, 2016
jimh425 wrote:
I wouldn't add salt unless you like rust. ~snip~

My tank is Plastic.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Oct 04, 2016
Blanco1 wrote:
Might a gallon on radiator Anti-freeze be enough for my black water tank?
it might, but why??? Stuff is crazy expensive compared to the suggestions already made. Not taking into account that it's toxic as well.
covered_wagon
Explorer
Oct 04, 2016
Blanco1 wrote:
Might a gallon on radiator Anti-freeze be enough for my black water tank?

I think some folks need to do a load of reading and research. I feel I've tried helping with some information but it's going no where.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Oct 04, 2016
Heat tape and pipe insulation on exposed drains and water lines. Presume you'll have power.
But if you keep the tanks thawed then the drains shouldn't freeze hard, be liberal keeping the tanks thawed. Salt or rv antifreeze. Or both.