Loss of Power after New Fan Clutch
Hello Everyone, I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 and it blew the water pump and fan clutch at the campsite. Got it towed to a auto repair store in San Diego and they replaced the fan clutch, water...
Forum Discussion
Fan clutches are not digital...meaning that they are only on or off with no middle coupling
They are analog...meaning that they will start to couple more over their parasitic as their thermo sensor says it is getting hotter...until it says to turn FULL ON. At which point it ROARS
You can get by with a much smaller mechanically coupled or electric by increasing the radiator's thermal rejection capacity (larger frontal area, but stuck with the vehicle sheetmetal opening...or increasing the stack...and/or increasing the tube/fin efficiency)
It is a whole system...thermal management of the ICE coolant ICE oil, and auto ATF. Toss in the AC radiator.
Heck, even the flow rate (both PSI & GPH) of the coolant running through the radiator matters...as it is a component of how the thermal system works.
When towing heavy, my Suburban's SD fan clutch rarely ROARs, but when it does...a quick look at the dash thermal gauge shows it is crept up to 200*F. That then has the gauge needle drop like a rock back to 180*F (my thermostat rating). Maybe a few seconds if on the flats, but on inclines it might ROAR for a few minutes and will cycle if that incline is long.
They are analog...meaning that they will start to couple more over their parasitic as their thermo sensor says it is getting hotter...until it says to turn FULL ON. At which point it ROARS
You can get by with a much smaller mechanically coupled or electric by increasing the radiator's thermal rejection capacity (larger frontal area, but stuck with the vehicle sheetmetal opening...or increasing the stack...and/or increasing the tube/fin efficiency)
It is a whole system...thermal management of the ICE coolant ICE oil, and auto ATF. Toss in the AC radiator.
Heck, even the flow rate (both PSI & GPH) of the coolant running through the radiator matters...as it is a component of how the thermal system works.
When towing heavy, my Suburban's SD fan clutch rarely ROARs, but when it does...a quick look at the dash thermal gauge shows it is crept up to 200*F. That then has the gauge needle drop like a rock back to 180*F (my thermostat rating). Maybe a few seconds if on the flats, but on inclines it might ROAR for a few minutes and will cycle if that incline is long.
