โJun-17-2014 04:03 AM
โJun-23-2014 11:10 AM
โJun-20-2014 08:01 PM
jus2shy wrote:SLE wrote:
Well, I know a slotted cross drilled rotor is going to dissipate heat better than one that is not. Therefor they will stop better under most circumstances with heaving braking such as we do with our trucks towing RVs and so forth. When I can do this at a cost equal to or cheaper than OEM, it certainly appears to provide a very good reason to change! Just some food for thought.
Be careful with those cross-drilled rotors. They like to develop very fine cracks around the holes and sometimes slots (although much less likely to occur on slots). Especially if you're rough or hard on the brakes (lots of temperature differentials). I personally prefer solid surface as you don't give many edges for cracks to form NICO Forum. The slotted ones I can live with as well as the new J-hook styles. But the ones fully drilled-through, I don't think I'd ever buy a set of those rotors after personally seeing the stress cracks as shown on this forum on vehicles that aren't even tracked at all.
โJun-20-2014 06:21 PM
SLE wrote:
Well, I know a slotted cross drilled rotor is going to dissipate heat better than one that is not. Therefor they will stop better under most circumstances with heaving braking such as we do with our trucks towing RVs and so forth. When I can do this at a cost equal to or cheaper than OEM, it certainly appears to provide a very good reason to change! Just some food for thought.
โJun-20-2014 05:32 PM
โJun-20-2014 01:01 PM
โJun-20-2014 10:40 AM
SLE wrote:
I gave Rotor-Pro's a call and they set me with there heavy duty pads and slotted and cross drilled rotors for all four corners a fantastic price for my F250. So far I've been happy with them but I only have about 8k miles on them. Thus far I have not noticed any dust on my polished rims! I don't remember the exact price, I think it was around $300-$400 shipped. What I do remember is they were about $50 cheaper than buying only front rotors and pads from the local dealer!
โJun-20-2014 10:11 AM
you'll continue to have that kind of braking problems if you do NOT find and/or
understand the root cause
โJun-20-2014 06:18 AM
Grit dog wrote:Orcusomega wrote:
Ok, I am going to look into OEM brakes - I don't really have any significant complaints, but dont have any complaints about the OEM pads. Dusty, yes, but i dont really care about that much... I will trade off clean for safe ๐
I will replace the rotors and pads (I don't know how they were treated, and for the price, better to replace them since they are basically off with the removal of 2 extra bolts).
Thanks for all the help!
Bob
Only 75k on front pads on a truck that was used otr is not very long service life at all. Especially with the smart transmissions and OE exhaust brakes now.
100k + mi is common for haulers. Even got 80 k out of the fronts on my wife's Ram and she never downshifts to slow down. Just throws it in neutral and clamps on the binders!
Why would you replace the rotors if they are not warped or not serviceable? It's not like you will get better braking just cause the rotors are new.
I wouldn't even reccomend having them turned unless they are warped. You can scuff them up when installing the new pads and the the new pads will bed in fine.
โJun-19-2014 06:34 AM
โJun-18-2014 11:56 AM
โJun-18-2014 11:15 AM
JamesBr wrote:
snip....
Yeah, so not true. But believe what you must, but don't state it as fact unless you repair or design ABS systems. I was actually talking about all the systems I have encountered have always worked the same way. The pump only activates when it "thinks" there is a locked up wheel or one slowing greater then the vehicle speed which again indicates tire lock up. In every case of premature ABS activation it has never once been the brake pads that caused it.
The only complication that's happen over the past 3 years (and again does not take into account the brakes coefficient factor is that now even under throttle or based on g load the car can apply one or more of the individual calipers to assist in traction/ride control. Still does not require you to reprogram the abs ecu every time you replace brake pads to ensure the have the correct coefficient.
โJun-18-2014 09:58 AM
โJun-18-2014 09:35 AM
ah64id wrote:
ABS systems contain algorithms for application that are based on the OEM brake pad coefficient, any change in cF will result in a change to the ABS performance. Not sure why you think different, but that's how modern ABS works. It's possible that 20 years ago it didn't matter, but on today's vehicles it does.
โJun-18-2014 09:09 AM
Orcusomega wrote:
Ok, I am going to look into OEM brakes - I don't really have any significant complaints, but dont have any complaints about the OEM pads. Dusty, yes, but i dont really care about that much... I will trade off clean for safe ๐
I will replace the rotors and pads (I don't know how they were treated, and for the price, better to replace them since they are basically off with the removal of 2 extra bolts).
Thanks for all the help!
Bob