New owner with some questions

Open the relief valve to let the air out it helps

Turn off all sink and shower valves. Open a hot water valve. Allow time for the hot water tank to fill and push water through the open hot water valve. It will take some time. Minute or two. Then close that valve and open the rest of the valves one at a time to purge air from the system.

Also, MAKE SURE HOT WATER TANK IS OFF WHEN EMPTY!!

The on board water pump will prime itself (self priming type of thing), you shouldn't have to worry about that. How long did you let the pump run while "gargling"? It may have just been the air in the pipes getting pushed out. Yes check for valves under sinks and in cabinets, there may be a winterizing valve still closed or set for bypass. I am sure someone here with a better knowledge of your camper will chime in.

As to the jack: When I am home, I use a large rolling floor jack to service the wheels. For on the road, I practiced a tire change using my truck's (F250) jack and it works fine. As mentioned previously, place the jack carefully to avoid any damage. Also, as mentioned, make sure you have the correct size wrench/socket for the trailer lug nuts! I bought a socket specifically for the trailer wheels, and keep it in the truck's glove compartment. I also have a pretty good tool kit I keep in one of the trailer's compartments.

See you on the road!

Thanks fellas,
This morning I drained everything. I have the water tank full of the water bleach solution. I turned on the pump and opened the cold water spigot in the sink but injustice pushing air. There's a gargling sound like the pump can't prime itself. I'm lost at this point. Is there a valve I'm supposed to flip to go from city water to the tank?

Check out Trailer Aid the ramp that gets the bad wheel off the ground. For more info search this Forum for `trailer aid'.

The two lines are your low-point drains, hot and cold water. The third is your fresh water tank.

Jacks? I don't carry any. Never changed a tire myself, never had a flat either. If it happens, we'll just call road side assistance. (AllState Insurance)

I don't think you have anything to worry about on your roof, and should not not worry for a long time. You're camper is still brand new. No need to do anything unless you DO have a problem. If it isn't broken .... don't fix it!

I use Lynx Leveler Blocks on my dual axle, same ones used to level TT at campgrounds. Just build a ramp and pull unflat tire up ramp until flat tire is free. Remember to loosen lug nuts FIRST.

Be sure you have a lug wrench that fits!

Quick guess are that the two together are your low point drains for the plumbing system one for hot and one for cold... As for jacking. My plan is to use a ramp under the other tire to get the one I need to work on up off the ground (if you have dual axle). People speak highly of Dicor for sealing and Eternabond tape.

Two of the lines should be low point drains and the third should be the potable water tank drain.
As for jack? I have a 10 ton hydraulic jack that i use. I also carry the correct socket for the lug nuts, a 4 inch 1/2 inch drive extension and breaker bar. Plus a torque wrench. In an emergency you can some times use the tow vehicles jack. Be sure to only jack under the spring perch.