NEWBEE NEEDS ADVICE!!!

I can tell you from experience, you will know if you are under powered.

I spent 10 day in the Ozarks towing a 5000 lb. dry weight TT with a 200 hp V6. The odd thing was, in spite of the diminutive motor the F-150 had a towing package and suspension upgrade so weight was not a problem.

The problems with under power are,
• Lack of acceleration when pulling out or trying to pass.
• A max speed of 62 to 65 mph on the flat.
• A struggle to maintain 50 to 55 mph on anything that resembled a hill.
• Most importantly, it took a keen amount of accelerator playing to keep the engine from dropping down into a lower gear and creating excessive motor rpms.

We were kind of lulled into a false sense of security by the towing package but decided to rent a TT to see what this RVing was all about.

Other than the annoyance of an underpowered TV we also discovered,
• A 250 to 300 mile day was quite enough.
• You have to like driving at 60 to 65 mph and being passed by everything on the road.
• There are no fast moves or last minute decisions when pulling one of these barns down the road.
• RVing suited our touring life style. We like it but it is not for everyone.
• And finally you will get about 10 mpg.

Still it is up to you to decide what kind of TV/TT combo suits you.

I've got the same Tacoma, tow package etc. I hauled my 19' trailer 11,000km in June and July. Dry weight 2600#, probably 3200# loaded. Truck performed well, but you would be sorely underpowered with the weight you're looking at.

If brand is paramount, the Tundra could easily haul that rig, but a Tacoma...only on the downhill flats, both ways.

Ralph

Need-A-Vacation wrote:


Another thing to understand when the manufactures state a tow rating, it is a flat bed trailer with a slab of steel on it. Very little wind resistance unlike a high walled travel trailer. Some manufactures will state a max front square feet area for vehicles as well.

Which is why my manual says MAX TOW 10,450 then list STANDARD TOW at 5000. If you tow at MAX,all the time, you will kill your truck. That is a "you can do it" number, not the you SHOULD do it number. Reality is somewhere in the middle of the two numbers.

Your toyota will be maxed out for weight and underpowered.

IMHO a respectable V8 (ok ford guys---maybe a turbo 6), 1/2 ton truck is where you would want to be.

Of course I see that the 3/4 ton crowd, and a 1/2 ton owner who used half the payload for a cap, have already spoken up. I am sure the 1 ton, dually crowd will be spewing diesel comments any minute now.


EDIT:

As I have previously mentioned, I pulled our KZ Sportsment Classic 170 (19'--3500 gvwr) with a V6 Dakota when I first bought it. Put me at about 85% of tow capacity, but maxed me at payload (900 ish) with just the dog in the bed. I have pulled trailers all my life, was prepared for the wiggles I would get (even with WDH/anti-sway), and the lack of performance. As an experienced truck driver---I was not afraid to go fast down hill, in an effort to GO GO GO up the next hill.

I sure am glad the wife let me buy a Ram (16?? payload) with HEMI.


Let me also add that the opinions on here will differ---often based on what people take with them. For me, a "LOADED" trailer is my payload with the exception of a couple of Kayaks, the wife and dog.
I think many people make the mistake of thinking they can pull a trailer AND load the bed. A trailer IS the load. If you are taking the kitchen sink-----you may need a 1 ton.

Like NEED-A-VACATION said: "As mentioned, the payload of your truck is the limiting factor. All passengers, cargo (coolers, firewood, chairs, etc), any accessories added after it was built, the wdh, and the tw all add toward the payload of a vehicle."

As mentioned, the payload of your truck is the limiting factor. All passengers, cargo (coolers, firewood, chairs, etc), any accessories added after it was built, the wdh, and the tw all add toward the payload of a vehicle.

What is the yellow sticker in the drivers door jamb state for payload? Estimate the tw at 13% of the trailers gvwr. Plus the family weight, plus cargo weight, plus.....

Another thing to understand when the manufactures state a tow rating, it is a flat bed trailer with a slab of steel on it. Very little wind resistance unlike a high walled travel trailer. Some manufactures will state a max front square feet area for vehicles as well.

Good luck!!!

I got away with towing our other camper, 28' Outback RLS from MD to FL with our 1/2 ton Dodge. It was a long, slow, careful trip. For that size TT go with a 3/4 ton minimum and V8 with tow package and a WDH.

Find out the gross weight of the TT, and then find out what the payload of your Tacoma is - look at the door sticker. It will say something like passengers and cargo weight not to exceed...

Where do you get this 6500 number? Is that the stated Tow capacity? It's not what the truck can pull, its what it can carry. Looking up payload your vehicle, I see there is a range of 865 to 1465. Payload will be exceeded before tow capacity, and towing a high walled TT is not like pulling a weighted flat trailer that is used to determine tow capacity.

When you get the gross weight of the TT, multiply it by 12% to estimate the tongue weight. Then subtract the estimated weight of the people and stuff you will be carrying in your truck. Then subtract from payload.

Notice the use of the word estimated. To be sure, Google Cat Scale, load up the truck for camping and take it to be weighed.

I have a 4.0 v6 in my Explorer, it has trouble pulling my 17' boat.
BTC

I don't think you will be happy with the 4.0'same performance towing a full profile travel trailer

See if you can rent the unit for a week, or at least take it for a long test drive. We rented a TT similar to the one we bought, because we were not familiar with towing. You learn a lot and you know what you are getting into.

Only you can decide if the combo fits your needs for acceleration, truck buffets, etc.

Enough TV is very subjective but you do need to be sure you are not overloading the TV cargo capacity.