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Newbie Question:Advice on used AllWeather TC for work travel

PipeRunner
Explorer
Explorer
I'm new to the forum and have really enjoyed all the real world experiences from all of the folks on the forum. I'm starting a new topic, because I haven't seen any posts pertaining to my specific interest.
I'm looking into a truck camper to be used for semi-full time use while traversing a maintenance job on the US section of pipeline stretching from the Canadian Border in North Dakota all the way down to Oklahoma City. The job is year round, regardless of weather,(snow/blizzard,rain, wind, tornadoes, blizzard, sub-zero overnight temps, etc), and I would be required to stay on site or nearby until the job is complete before moving on. With that said, I need to be able to cool it in the summers and keep it warm and functional in the Northern winters.
I have no preference, other than the ability to "boondock", (dry camp) for long periods of time when a campground can't be found reasonably close, and stay warm at night.
I do not have a truck yet, and my intent is to find the camper and then tailor the truck purchase to support it with a margin of safety.
Let me state this upfront, I know I will have to make modifications to achieve my needs, but I would like help to identify the camper that will require the least modifications.
Thanks in advance for any advice or help.
39 REPLIES 39

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
They do not have slides. Might weigh more in a given size. Much more difficult to find used. The availability to purchase a new one may not currently be an option. Bigfoot closed it's doors for a while. May or may not be back in business with new owner/s. Northern Lite recently had a major fire. They may or may not be back in production.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

PipeRunner
Explorer
Explorer
A clarification question: I know the advantages to an all fiberglass two piece camper (northern lite & Bigfoot). Can anyone breakdown disadvantages to this style camper? I'm looking for experiences, but I would settle for scuttlebutt and supported conjecture.

homefor2
Explorer
Explorer
Here is the link worth checking out for a quality safe heater
1998 Carriage Conestoga 3742

PipeRunner
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the details on the diesel goodies data Sparky87k5. I'll take a look and sort out whether it would be feasible to slowly transition existing fuel source specific equipment to the diesel applications.

PipeRunner
Explorer
Explorer
Jefe, Thanks again for all the input. I will expand my search grid in the search. I have contemplated the trailer angle as also suggested by Homefor2. I have seen several long term boondockers on the forum with cargo trailers used for the purpose of stores and equipment, particularly solar panels and an extensive battery bank of 6v batteries for extended dry camping stays.
I have also considered a hard side travel trailer, but I hesitate because I have dreams of off the beaten path fire road camping with the family when I'm not babysitting the pipes. That's not something I could do well with a travel trailer. I do recognize I'm approaching the elusive "one size fits all" concept that simply does not exist.
At this point I have narrowed to the following:
1 ton crew cab long bed 4x4...still contemplating merits of gas over diesel.
Hard side no slide TC with heated basement, dual pane storm/thermal windows...leaning toward the two piece fiberglass campers based on research and forum feedback. Solar, extra batteries, wave3 heater...
Anyone have an opinion on black water tank and toilet vs thetford cassette toilet during extreme temps?

Sparky87k5
Explorer
Explorer
I researched some very nice used Bigfoot and Northern Lite TC for possible choices. They all were less then $15k and in the 98-2004 model years. A Wabasto diesel heater is about $3200. A Wallas cooktop is about $700, add another $1000 if you want an oven too. Cummins makes a nice diesel gen set for RV use that could be installed in the old propane locker. They're about $5700. So if you're really wanting to go all diesel it can be done reasonablly if you find the right TC to build on.
2000 F350 Lariat LE V10 CC LB 4WD DRW
2005 Eagle Cap 850 Camper
1993 Robalo 2440 twin '07 Merc Optimax 150's
1978 Glasply 28' with twin 310hp V8's

jefe_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
Pipe,
I see. Increase your canvas to include all the western states using craigslist and the Recycler (in CA). Just be sure to get enough truck. Another thought, since you have a 1600 mile drive from home is to buy a trailer and leave it along the line when going back to casa pipe. After your explanation, it looks like you could use a smallish, 4-season hard side, with a basement and heated tanks. You don't need to keep them full when traveling, especially with only one person living in it.
God luck,
jefe
'01.5 Dodge 2500 4x4, CTD, Qcab, SB, NV5600, 241HD, 4.10's, Dana 70/TruTrac; Dana 80/ TruTrac, Spintec hub conversion, H.D. susp, 315/75R16's on 7.5" and 10" wide steel wheels, Vulcan big line, Warn M15K winch '98 Lance Lite 165s, 8' 6" X-cab, 200w Solar

homefor2
Explorer
Explorer
What about towing an enclosed utility trailer to store all the stuff like fuel, spare parts, generator, BBQ, tools, batteries, solar on the roof, bicycle and whatever else you deem necessary. It would sure give you a lot of options.
1998 Carriage Conestoga 3742

PipeRunner
Explorer
Explorer
Jefe,
I'm located in Central Arizona, so the all weather Fourseason camper market is less than ideal. Regarding the commute distance, it is approximately 1600 miles from door to pipeline at the northernmost point and approximately 1000 miles from the southernmost point. The northern commute would of course take me through Utah, Colorado, parts of Wyoming, Nebraska, and on up into the Dakotas. That of course also depends on whether and road conditions. Therein lies the issue gas or diesel. I have a propensity for trying to consolidate as much as possible and keep things as simple as possible. While I agree with what Sparky87K5 said regarding diesel appliances, diesel generator, etc., I don't know that I would find a truck camper with such conversions, which means a high initial cost to procure said appliances and generator.
Having a diesel truck with diesel appliances and diesel generators would eliminate a lot of the fuel storage required by most campers now. With LP gas appliances typical for TC's, gasoline generator (honda eu2000 & 3000), and a diesel truck, it becomes far too complicated to manage and maintain fuel storage.
Truthfully my intent is to run the camper like a submarine. As efficient as possible, as simple as possible, with lots of redundant systems, (high battery count, at least 300 watts of solar, dedicated charge controller, and efficient heat, e.g. Wave 3 or 6 units over the built in furnace.)
I have no issues with gas trucks, but worry about loaded hill climbing, engine longevity, and yes even MPG. The more mileage I can squeeze out of the truck, the more money I have for the camper. It not uncommon for members of the team to put 30k - 40k miles a year on the vehicle. I must buy used, so I have to consider which 8-10 year old truck will still have the longevity and power remaining in the engine when I make it mine, a diesel or gas?

jefe_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
Pipe,
Where in the western U.S. do you live? This makes a difference about inspecting possible candidates. If you live in the northwest, then any camper built up there with 'Northern', or 'Fox', or' Snow' in its name would be a good choice. If you live farther south the pickin's get slimmer.
My perception about campers that will be lived in for prolonged periods is: the longer you are out, the bigger and more luxurious you want the white box. BKA on here is THE prime example of form follows function for long term truck camping in all seasons. I'm sure once he gets back from Timbuctoo he'll chime in. Another decision is, new or used? You may have to expand your search out to include multi western states. That's easy to do now-o-days, but the inspection is still the crucial factor. Take someone along with you that knows about RV's in general, and hopefully TC's in particular when on your TC inspection tour. You need to make the right decisions the first time out.
If you are not going to move very far each time for the job, consider a used Ford or Dodge 450/4500, V-10 gasser. They get awful mpg, but work well in cold weather and don't have to pay the $5K-10K diesel penalty.
Another option is the rig i saw a couple weeks ago. It was a Ford F-550 cab and chassis, 28 foot class C, with the 4WD option and a transfer case. Plenty of room in there and come winter or high water, and it would be a spacious place to live. That's the difference. We're not talking about a week-end romp in the old 8 foot TC.
jefe
'01.5 Dodge 2500 4x4, CTD, Qcab, SB, NV5600, 241HD, 4.10's, Dana 70/TruTrac; Dana 80/ TruTrac, Spintec hub conversion, H.D. susp, 315/75R16's on 7.5" and 10" wide steel wheels, Vulcan big line, Warn M15K winch '98 Lance Lite 165s, 8' 6" X-cab, 200w Solar

Sparky87k5
Explorer
Explorer
Going with a long wheel base crew cab dually is good, use a flatbed with under and above storage lockers, a good fiberglass non slide TC and consider changing out the furnace to a diesel fuel unit. Look into some of the marine grade diesel heaters like Webasto. There used by long haul truckers running the north country in sub zero temps. There are also some very good cook tops that are diesel fueled also. Look at a Wallas cooktop. We've used them in boats for years. The less propane you need the better off you'll be in cold temperatures. There are also some very good diesel powered small gen sets that are sold for TC use.
With a flatbed you can easily install additional fuel tanks for the required diesel fuel. Just some thoughts.
2000 F350 Lariat LE V10 CC LB 4WD DRW
2005 Eagle Cap 850 Camper
1993 Robalo 2440 twin '07 Merc Optimax 150's
1978 Glasply 28' with twin 310hp V8's

PipeRunner
Explorer
Explorer
Again,
A lot of really good detailed information. I'm seeing a pattern of experienced campers pushing me toward the two piece fiberglass construction units, such as Bigfoot and Northern lite. Is the two construction better insulated or less prone to drafts due the the lack of open corners and edges when the structure comes together?
Silversand: You live in Montreal, so you clearly have exposure to cold, but is it really that naive to expect a four season truck camper, diligently prepared, to survive the winter months. I've been reading the North Dakota oil field worker blogs where the oil field workers are staying in 25' and 30' foot four season campers set up as bunk houses. There accounts point out a lot of your points regarding the conditions, but they survive and thrive. Now I recognize that that is not camping. They are all plugged in and have full hook ups, but they are still occupying travel trailers that have exponentially more open space to heat in the exact same subzero temps and wind conditions on the Dakota Montana border. We typically have December off, unless there is an unscheduled outage, but "the oil must flow, so we must go", even if its January in Edmonton.
If the consensus is that I need to consider a hotel during the worst time, then so be it, but I need to know I can use my camper 85-90% of the time except in the extreme.

I agree with removing slides from the equation. Any holes in the living envelop creates opportunities for leaks or drafts.

Please keep the information coming, it is most helpful.

silversand
Explorer
Explorer
....you will be working in 2 of the coldest regions in the populated Americas (The Dakotas). Other than a building insulated to R40+, only specialized Arctic research vehicles and specialized military vehicles with "living units" can withstand -50F to -60F prolonged (often present in the Dakotas and Minnesota); imagine an old non-frost-free freezer with 4 inches of ice crystals inside it: the inside of an R10 to R18 camper will look that way or worse after a few nights sleeping inside it at -40F, -50F, -60F. Alaska is Florida-like compared to The Dakotas **interior continental winters** (just check last year's Alaska winter cold stats: they are Florida-like compared to Dakotas/Minnesota).

There is NOTHING in the realm of off-the-shelf RV units available to you at a **reasonable price** that will protect both your fuel system, water storage system, batteries and interior against those kinds of prolonged temperatures. You'll have to go to a specialized Arctic vehicle up-fitter for your needs. Or, pray that your schedule doesn't situate you in the Dakotas during the depths of winter.

Good luck to you,
S-
Silver
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 6.0L Ext/LB Tow Package 4L80E Michelin AT2s| Outfitter Caribou

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Personally, I think I would only consider a Northern Light or Bigfoot. Ideally with double pane windows. I would mount the TC on a flatbed as previously stated. This will allow you more usable space to carry stuff; extra propane, fuel for generator (if not propane), etc. I would consider plumbing the propane into your existing system. I would use aluminum tool boxes that opened from the side, and were removeable. The flatbed would really come into play when summer camping with the family. It would provide more storage.

The flatbed makes it easier to add up to 4" (or more) sheet insulation on the lower sides and wings of the TC. I would sandwitch a 4" sheet of insulation (with 4" tall wood frame) between the TC and Flatbed deck to help insulate the tanks. I think keeping the tanks from freezing will be the biggest single challenge.

I would use two Wave3 heaters, one mounted and the other portable. In a TC, I think the lowest setting on the Wave6 is too high for a TC unless super cold. You will need to install a low amp fan to blow into the basement.

Although not as cold as what you will experience, I did live in my TC for four nights a week in the parking lot at work. I did this for five years. Minimizing your electrical (Amp Hours) is absolutely necessary. You will get a lot of theory, but I highly suggest a Trimetric or equal and accurately measure your usage. Anything to reduce your AH use is your friend in the weather you are talking about. You do not need to replace what you do not use, solar or generator.

Maybe I am expanding to far away from the question of which 4 season TC, but those things I suggest could make a borderline 4 season TC a great 4 season. I would not even consider a TC with a slide. For your primary use I would go with an 8 to 9.5 foot Northern Light or Bigfoot. I might consider a 10.5 foot but it would be less efficient in my opinion.

I am bias, I have a 11.5 foot Bigfoot TC. It took me years to find one I could afford (used). I have had other TCs, but not with slides. My last preference with siding would be filon. I would go to great lengths to avoid it.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

billtex
Explorer II
Explorer II
nycsteve wrote:
Sparky87k5 remarks on a diesel bear repeating............


Diesels hate cold weather and "other than the ability to "boondock", (dry camp) for long periods of time" will require some sort of 120volt power for block heaters in either a diesel or gas engine.


I have heard this rumor before. We have only had our diesel truck in temps as cold as -35 deg F and have had no problems starting.
At what temps did you have trouble with your diesel?

We do not use the block heater or any fuel additives (winter blend is already at the pumps in winter)...not needed.

To the OP...if it is just 1 person I would seriously consider a Northern Light or Bigfoot for this type of duty.

Good luck, once you figure out the details a TC should work great for you.

Bill
2020 F350 CC LB
Eagle Cap 850
25'Airstream Excella
"Good People Drink Good Beer"-Hunter S Thompson