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tooldad1041's avatar
tooldad1041
Explorer
Apr 05, 2020

norcold rv refridge issue

removed a 2008 norcold refridge from a hybrid camper. camper is water damaged and is being used as a donor. I either got the shaft or am not doing something right.

We removed the fridge very carefully. We only cut the propane line (obviously it was empty) and cut the 12v leads back a foot or so. We leveled the fridge in the garage at home and there is no power to the unit on 110v. checked the fuses, all good.

any suggestions?

this happened to me 3 years ago when I stripped another water damaged unit. I ended up scrapping the fridge because it wouldn't come on.

I am pretty sure, but don't want to swear on it, but I saw it running when I plugged it in. Now I'm not even getting a light.
  • tooldad1041's avatar
    tooldad1041
    Explorer
    Apr 09, 2020
    I will be working on the cabinet this week. went back to my lot and took the top vent off to reuse. The only issue is the top of the new trailer is rounded, so I will have to slant it inward like in the middle option of a diagram I found. Option 1 was roof straight up, option 2 was roof inset 6" with a baffle directing the air that way, option 3 was wall.

    I will have the trailer battery tomorrow at the house with the trailer to test power. I will only run the fridge without a cabinet long enough to test power.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Apr 09, 2020
    Maybe OP will post back ----- got infomartion needed ---- would be nice to hear how it worked

    Or maybe not.
    Few ever do.
  • aftermath's avatar
    aftermath
    Explorer III
    Apr 07, 2020
    I believe that the roof vent is far better than venting through the side wall. The roof vent is more efficient. if you vent through the side, you should count on a fan to keep the flow going.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Apr 06, 2020
    Build a cabinet (plywood/2x2) Fully enclosed so fridge sits inside it

    Screened air inlet at bottom and a chimney box with screened opening on top
    Fans at top to help PULL air in and exhaust it into open garage area (12VDC computer fans....low amp draw...in line 1A fuse on POS wire)
    No need to cut holes in garage roof or walls


  • tooldad1041's avatar
    tooldad1041
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2020
    is there a preference or advantage to roof vent over wall vent on the upper? I would prefer not to cut a hole in the roof.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Apr 06, 2020
    tooldad1041 wrote:
    Thank you. That just sucks then that 3-4 years ago I scrapped a perfectly good working fridge. Live and learn, I was ready to go to the RV service tomorrow to have it checked before I built a cabinet around it.


    12VDC draw is minimal so spare battery with 'battery tender' connected should maintain the DC voltage
    Fridge circuit board has 2 fuses....1 for 120VAC (electric circuit/heater element---typically 5A glass fuse) and 1 for 12VDC (circuit board/controls--typically a 3A auto blade fuse)


    Clearances (Standard)
    0"---top/bottom/sides
    1"---backside (if more then baffles should be used to direct airflow up thru absorber tubes and across condenser Fins at top)
  • tooldad1041's avatar
    tooldad1041
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2020
    Thank you. That just sucks then that 3-4 years ago I scrapped a perfectly good working fridge. Live and learn, I was ready to go to the RV service tomorrow to have it checked before I built a cabinet around it.
  • opnspaces's avatar
    opnspaces
    Navigator II
    Apr 06, 2020
    Yes on the 12 volt requirement. Maybe get a small desktop fan and place it on the ground and facing up under the coils. You don't want to overheat anything. Or look up the install manual online and it will give the required spacing. You could probably fab up something with a few scraps of plywood. I imagine the most critical dimension is the rear of the fridge.
  • ItsyRV's avatar
    ItsyRV
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2020
    As Old-Biscuit said, you probably still need 12 volt dc to get the control systems to operate. As was also mentioned, you probably can get it to turn on once you connect the battery but, don't expect much cooling of the interior as it needs the proper enclosure to enable the cooling functions to work properly and cool down the interior.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Apr 06, 2020
    Needs 12VDC for controls/functions etc even when using the 120VAC

    Also...needs to be in a 'cabinet' with tight clearances top/bottom/sides and especially backside.
    Not designed/intended to run & properly cool sitting out in the open (Needs draft across backside...bottom to top w/o much space between cabinet and backside of cooling unit)

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