Atlee wrote:
Can't plug the TV into a Ford and get any juice from the Ford chassis battery, unless you're letting the Ford idle, and that's not a good solution for electricity for the TV.
And even if you didn't idle the Ford, you'd still have to have the switch turned to ON.
When the Ford switch is off, no power can run from the chassis battery to the TV.
I can't speak to GM products, or Rams.
In my previous post I said "light use" - running the truck for a few minutes to supply emergency power to a camper is going to make zero difference to the truck. Yes, with GM products the 7-pin Bargman's charge line is hot all the time whether the truck is running or not. Regardless, I have a 16' 4 gauge booster cable which I can use to connect directly from my Silvy's battery to the trailer battery, resulting in far less voltage drop compared to plugging the trailer into the truck's 7-pin Bargman. This works especially well when my 1000 watt inverter is under heavy load from a toaster - results in far less voltage drop and prevents the inverter from alarming even under full load. Considering we may only dry camp a couple of times each season, just what the OP said is his situation as well, I've eliminated the need for a second trailer battery. It's not complicated. :R