Forum Discussion

rjsurfer's avatar
rjsurfer
Explorer
Jul 13, 2013

Permanent fix for Coroplast underbelly

Moderator...sorry can you move this to TT or 5th wheel forum, thanks..


I hate working on the underbelly, royal pain in the butt to work on anything under (or above depending on your viewpoint) the Coroplast.

After a 5 years of ownership of my Cougar I have numerous slits and cuts made to gain access to various leaks and wiring problems in the underbelly.

Trying to pull down the Coroplast in one piece (even in sections) by removing the screws is not as easy as it sounds, all of the screws are solidly rusted on and many parts of the Coroplast are under the gas lines that seem to run the entire length of the camper. And even if I did pull it down in one piece it would be a major job for one person to replace it without major sags and billowing.

My thought is to somehow replace the one piece underbelly Coroplast in sections, making it easier for one person to gain access.

How could this be done? I'm sure there would have to be a few cross members to support the ends of the different sections and how could it be made somewhat water proof? I guess I could use self tapping screws again for the edges but is there a smarter easier to replace method, maybe snaps, Velcro or something else?

I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem.

Ron W.
Truck Campers
  • Airstreamer67's avatar
    Airstreamer67
    Explorer
    Jul 14, 2013
    I did like Mquay. I cut where needed and stitched up the patient with pilot holes and zipties. I don't bother with the silicon sealer since my cuts are cinched up well with the zipties.


    I wouldn't touch the side screws with a 10 foot screwdriver. Too many screwed into a questionable base that I have no confidence in. I just use the original construction on the side for support of my ziptied center.
  • mguay's avatar
    mguay
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    rjsurfer wrote:
    mguay wrote:
    I have had mine out several times in the 4yrs we have owned it. I cut mine into 3 sections. In front of the axles, over the axles and behind the axles. I however have gone a different route than others with great success. Rather than installing a cross member of sorts to fasten it to, I laced it with wire ties. I drilled holes on each side of the cut about 2" from the edge, directly across from each other about 6" apart. I then zip tie the holes across the cut and just pull them snug. After they are all tight and cut, I run a bead of silicone the length of the cut and fill the holes.
    This method has lasted up and down 95 many times!


    Great idea..

    How did you attach the sides of the panels? still using self tapping screws?

    Ron W.


    Still using self tappers. I am switching them out to Stainless a few at a time...but I find the stainless ones aren't anywhere near as strong as the cheapo ones and are prone to breaking.
  • rjsurfer's avatar
    rjsurfer
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    mguay wrote:
    I have had mine out several times in the 4yrs we have owned it. I cut mine into 3 sections. In front of the axles, over the axles and behind the axles. I however have gone a different route than others with great success. Rather than installing a cross member of sorts to fasten it to, I laced it with wire ties. I drilled holes on each side of the cut about 2" from the edge, directly across from each other about 6" apart. I then zip tie the holes across the cut and just pull them snug. After they are all tight and cut, I run a bead of silicone the length of the cut and fill the holes.
    This method has lasted up and down 95 many times!


    Great idea..

    How did you attach the sides of the panels? still using self tapping screws?

    Ron W.
  • mguay's avatar
    mguay
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    I have had mine out several times in the 4yrs we have owned it. I cut mine into 3 sections. In front of the axles, over the axles and behind the axles. I however have gone a different route than others with great success. Rather than installing a cross member of sorts to fasten it to, I laced it with wire ties. I drilled holes on each side of the cut about 2" from the edge, directly across from each other about 6" apart. I then zip tie the holes across the cut and just pull them snug. After they are all tight and cut, I run a bead of silicone the length of the cut and fill the holes.
    This method has lasted up and down 95 many times!
  • fuelhauler's avatar
    fuelhauler
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    For a moment I thought I was lost in the trailer forum.I know what you guys mean about taking down & putting back up the under belly. When I had my Everest I had a broken pipe due to freezing & it was a pain to get to it & get everything buttoned back up.
  • ScottG's avatar
    ScottG
    Nomad
    Jul 13, 2013
    Yea, ours is a TT but it's a great floor plan for us.
    I only pulled mine down once but I found I wasn't the first one in there. Mickey had already left his mark. :(
  • 12thgenusa's avatar
    12thgenusa
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    Hey, you have the same trailer as I. The first time I pulled mine down, I cut it into three sections. At one split, I added an aluminum angle spanned between the frame I-beams. At the other I added a metal strip to one end of the cut piece to have something to screw into with the other piece. Yes, it is a pain to pull down the iron propane pipe, but a must. When everything was reinstalled I put strips of Gorilla tape over the split lines.

    I've actually had the whole thing down three different times. The section over the axles is the hardest to reposition.

    This thread should probably be in a different forum.
  • ScottG's avatar
    ScottG
    Nomad
    Jul 13, 2013
    Replace screws with stainless?
    Your right, it's a pain to work under there. Really seems like it's put together without any thought of having to remove it some day for maint.

About Travel Trailer Group

44,029 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 21, 2025