Rear of camper sagging

I'd say 1/8" over a 6ish foot gap decently centered between the axles. The rear really doesn't sag but 2-3", enough to get the overloads fully involved. It's the front that lifts without cranked bars. I'm thinking I'll decrank to get it just level when fully loaded. I may be able to find a smidge more crank in the hitch as well, but at the current stance I'm maxxed. Can barely get the chain on the frame dealie, but the bigass handle Reese gives you is more than enough to load the bars with little effort. In fact, when I last set the hitch the trailer moved when I honked on one of the bars, so I figure they're probably doing their job halfway decent. Tough to limit the front rise to 1/4" when the hitch is sitting on a 4 foot extension. Funny thing about how the truck drives: empty it tracks straight, but load it up with camper and trailer and now suddenly it pulls to one side, much moreso when your foot is in it. I aligned the truck myself, gave it -.5 degrees of camber, maxxed caster on the side that gave the least, and matched the side that would give the most until the truck drove straight. This method works great on my 1500, but this truck has always pulled to the right in 1st gear when fully loaded. I never bothered with the alignment until this year, and now that I feel it's correct I have to wonder if I have some cross-KPA going on. Aside from the weird pulling, the truck drives nice. In total control, no wiggling, no white knuckle and still stops all the weight I hook it to with confidence. I'm thinking I'll just cave and take it to a shop to put on the rack and get all the numbers as they can see more than a camber/caster gauge and a set of toe plates. There are just so many garbage shops out there though that's it's damned difficult to decide who to trust. My steering wheel is actually straight when unlaiden driving down the road which is more than I can say for the folks who take their cars to Firestone for a POS alignment.