Reese Dual Cam Torque Specs?

[nomad297]

When I purchased my travel trailer, the dealer installed the Reese Straight Line 1,200# Trunion Dual Cam with Sway Control weight distribution system.

Today, I went through all of the paperwork for the system and nowhere can I find the torque specifications for any of the bolts. The only references to torque mentioned in the installation instructions are a couple of places where they say "Do not over tighten".

Does anybody know what the torque should be on all of the bolts for this system?

Thanks,

Bruce

[cockroach]

ScottG wrote:

cockroach wrote:
What would be wrong worth using nylock nuts and tighten them just past snug. Then check them every 100 miles or so until you are comfortable that they are ok? I am referring to the type with u-bolts that straddle the frame.
Absolutely nothing - that would hold just fine.This is the type that I have.1st Picture in upper left hand corner.

https://www.google.com/search?q=reese+dual+cam+weight+distribution+hitch+old+style&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=653&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ioKYVKTsAoaOyATNroCQAw&ved=0CE8QsAQ

[myredracer]

When the tongue weight gets up around 1,000 lbs and upwards, the threads made by the Reese forming screws can be become enlarged/ovalized and the screws can become loose. This happened to ours and I am planning to take care of this before the next season.

If you only tighten the Reese forming screws directly into the frame, I would periodically check the tightness. There is a long, long thread somewhere on the forum about this. There are some ways to overcome this if it does happens, such as through-bolting along with a spacer inside the A-frame. The radius of the cam arm bracket is different than the outside corner of the square tubing on an A-frame which can worsen things too. For higher tongue weights and a Reese DC WDH, the long, long thread is at the very least, an interesting read. Couldn't find it in a quick search though.

[Hondavalk]

http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=RP66084
1. Attach hitch ball to the ballmount (G). Standard height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and
nuts (If you must use a 1” shank ball, use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce hole size in ballmount (G) to 1”). Always use a
lock washer and place washer next to nut. Unless otherwise specified by ball manufacturer torque ball nut to 450 ft/lbs
for 1-1/4" nut, 250 ft/lbs for 1" nut.
2. Install longer 3/4” bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown. Install lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space
for washers to be positioned and aligned. Align the washers as shown, hold in position, and tighten nut. Torque the
two nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If proper torque wrench is not available, torque nuts to 150 ft/lbs then turn nuts an additional
1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
3. •Install the ½” self tapping screw into the hole in the
bracket and frame. Tighten it to 50 ft/lbs.
•Re-tighten the ½” set screw on the inside of the frame.
Turn only ¼ to ½ of a turn after making contact with the
frame.
Cequent Performance Products, Inc.
47912 Halyard Dr. Suite 100
Plymouth, MI 48170
P

[ScottG]

cockroach wrote:
What would be wrong worth using nylock nuts and tighten them just past snug. Then check them every 1oo miles or so until you are comfortable that they are ok? I am referring to the type with u-bolts that straddle the frame. That is the type that I have.

Absolutely nothing - that would hold just fine.

[cockroach]

What would be wrong worth using nylock nuts and tighten them just past snug. Then check them every 100 miles or so until you are comfortable that they are ok? I am referring to the type with u-bolts that straddle the frame. That is the type that I have.

[nomad297]

BarneyS wrote:
From the Reese HP Dual Cam installation instructions:.

6. Leaving the frame bracket on the frame, center punch (2) holes. Drill (2) holes to 7/16” diameter. It may be helpful to drill a
smaller pilot hole prior to final drilling.
7. Install the flanged head, thread forming screws through the frame bracket and into the trailer frame. Torque screws to 50 ft-lb.
8. Install jam nut on long set screw. Install long set screw in frame bracket. Tighten set screw until it contacts frame. Then tighten
1/4” turn more. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLT ) Tighten jam nut.
9. Repeat the previous steps for the other side of the frame.
FOR TRAILERS WITH “C” CHANNEL FRAMES, DO THE FOLLOWING:
NOTE S “C” h lf h thtd t ll th f lt t t tth
26002N 05MAY10K PCN12509 ©2003 REESE PRODUCTS, INC PRINTED IN XXXXXX
NOTE: Some channel frames may have square corners that do not allow the frame plate to contact the
bottom of the frame. In this case, use a 1/2” flat washer between the side of the frame and the frame bracket to
maintain contact between the bottom of the frame and the frame bracket.
10. Leaving the frame bracket on frame, center punch (2) holes. Drill (2) holes to 17/32” diameter. It may be helpful to drill a
smaller pilot hole prior to final drilling.

🙂 Barney

Thank you,

Bruce

[BarneyS]

From the Reese HP Dual Cam installation instructions:.

6. Leaving the frame bracket on the frame, center punch (2) holes. Drill (2) holes to 7/16” diameter. It may be helpful to drill a
smaller pilot hole prior to final drilling.
7. Install the flanged head, thread forming screws through the frame bracket and into the trailer frame. Torque screws to 50 ft-lb.
8. Install jam nut on long set screw. Install long set screw in frame bracket. Tighten set screw until it contacts frame. Then tighten
1/4” turn more. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLT ) Tighten jam nut.
9. Repeat the previous steps for the other side of the frame.
FOR TRAILERS WITH “C” CHANNEL FRAMES, DO THE FOLLOWING:
NOTE S “C” h lf h thtd t ll th f lt t t tth
26002N 05MAY10K PCN12509 ©2003 REESE PRODUCTS, INC PRINTED IN XXXXXX
NOTE: Some channel frames may have square corners that do not allow the frame plate to contact the
bottom of the frame. In this case, use a 1/2” flat washer between the side of the frame and the frame bracket to
maintain contact between the bottom of the frame and the frame bracket.
10. Leaving the frame bracket on frame, center punch (2) holes. Drill (2) holes to 17/32” diameter. It may be helpful to drill a
smaller pilot hole prior to final drilling.

🙂 Barney

[nomad297]

Bob/Olallawa wrote:
make sure those two bolts that hold the head to the shank are tightened right.

I found that there is a sticker on the shank that requires 300 ft/lb on those 3/4" bolts. I checked them and they were right at 150 ft/lb. my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft/lb. I figured with an 18" breaker bar and my full 222lb body weight it might come close to that 300 ft/lb. That's what it got.

Bruce

[Bob_Olallawa]

The online instructions for the dualcam part call for 50 ft lbs for those self taping bolts. If your setup has the serrated washer setup for the head tilt make sure those two bolts that hold the head to the shank are tightened right. If the head slips it screws up the serrations on the hitch head and they are tough to reshape with a file.

[ScottG]

nomad297 wrote:

ScottG wrote:
It's really not critical like a head gasket or something similar - I just run them down good and snug with an impact wrench.

That's basically what I have done up until now. The bolts that concern me most are the self-tapping bolts that hold the cam arm to the frame. I want them as tight as possible, but I'm afraid I will strip the threads in the frame.

Bruce

As long as they're tight to the frame and don't allow movement then they will do their job. Making them even tighter wont make anything stronger as it's their sheer strength that keeps things in place.

[nomad297]

ScottG wrote:
It's really not critical like a head gasket or something similar - I just run them down good and snug with an impact wrench.

That's basically what I have done up until now. The bolts that concern me most are the self-tapping bolts that hold the cam arm to the frame. I want them as tight as possible, but I'm afraid I will strip the threads in the frame.

Bruce

[ScottG]

It's really not critical like a head gasket or something similar - I just run them down good and snug with an impact wrench or a ratchet and use my weight to tighten it.