Removing underbelly

I have had to cut the tarp like covering on a few of the campers I have had. If you can cut it on a wooden joist or rim board you can staple it back in place. If there is no wood to staple to I have used Gorilla tape to close the repair area back up. I have not had the tape come loose,even areas in the middle of the camper. For those who do not know,Gorilla brand tape is like super duct tape and is strong and sturdy.

I had some water leaks in my TT. It had thin alum covering the whole bottom. It had pink insuluation resting/setting on top of the alum just under the floor. What I didn't realize is if you don't put the insulation back in, the thin alum will flutter going down the road and will eventually crack/rip from fatigue. In other words, the insulation was in there for 2 reasons. Insulating and the weight would keep the underbelly from fluttering. The area where I didn't put any insulation in was only about 3 foot square. Even that small area did crack and rip going down the road.

I appreciate everyone's input.
Going up to the track tomorrow to tackle this.........
Wish me luck!!!!!

Don J.

Mine is just a bunch of screws and a few strategic cuts with a utility knife for things like a propane line running through. It's fairly easy to get it down. To install the liner again it's easier if you can use a floor jack and a piece of wood to lift the center of the panel up while you install the screws.

I just finished removing and re-installing the underbelly (coroplast) on my Bullet. It is a PITA but unless you know approx. where the short is it would be hit and miss. The factory used some black expanding foam to TRY and close air gaps. Once the screws are removed sliding a putty knife between the frame and coroplast will release it.

If you have the time while you are there double check all the tank level connections. I found several loose. Good time to check out the duckwork also.

I wouldn't be a fan of making sections out of it unless you have a way of overlapping the sections when you put it back together. I don't trust tape.

My only warning would be to watch for short screws when taking it down. Those short screws are located where a tank is installed over them. They need to be replaced in the same place they came out of. If you put a regular length screw back in you will puncture the tank. Please don't ask me how I know!!!!!

Richard

Hey everyone,

Thanks for the reply.

I would remove the whole thing and make sections out of it but it is currently parked at a NACSaR race and I need to find a short on my power cable running from the battery.
Is the under belly sealed with caulking or silicon which would make it a real PITA???
It's just held in place with screws??

Thanks again,

Don J.

I have also considered removing our underbelly. I have found it to be a major nuisance. We don't camp in the winter, so I have to wonder if there is any other need for the thing, other than making it difficult to check things out, find leaks, etc..

Now might be a good time to remove it entirely and reinstall it in smaller sections.
If you are going to keep it awhile, you will thank me later. I have found that access to the underbelly is needed every so often, and it is real convenient when this is done.

Simply cut it with a razor knife. If you look where the screws that hold it in place are and cut along the middle of the frame, you can use self tapping screws to put the cut out section back in place. You can find the plastic at any sign shop.