Underbelly removal help needed.

ol' yeller wrote:
Water leaks seek out the lowest point to drain. The actual leak could be a long ways from where the water comes out. You may have to pressurize the system until it leaks and follow the water trail. Or if it is a drain, fill the tank. I'd also try both city and tank water systems. If you still have no source, then your problem is from the weather leaking to the inside. One other suggestion would be that the AC condensate is leaking inside but I'd think that would be apparent on the ceiling. Good luck!

Made an appointment today but they can't get me in until the 17th. put a fan on the wet spot to dry it out and with all the rain we have been getting this should tell me if its coming from the outside or if its from the water pipes as I'm not hooked up to water right now. There are no water marks on the ceiling so I don't think its the AC.

Water leaks seek out the lowest point to drain. The actual leak could be a long ways from where the water comes out. You may have to pressurize the system until it leaks and follow the water trail. Or if it is a drain, fill the tank. I'd also try both city and tank water systems. If you still have no source, then your problem is from the weather leaking to the inside. One other suggestion would be that the AC condensate is leaking inside but I'd think that would be apparent on the ceiling. Good luck!

So further investigating this, It appears my trailer does not have a traditional underbelly. It is a black mesh with insulation above it in about a 2-3"deep space. I cut away the mesh and insulation in the area that is we and there are no water pipes there so my initial diagnosis was wrong. I got up on the roof and found no apparent areas where water could be getting in. Now I'm baffled

CincyGus wrote:
I would suggest gorilla tape instead of eternabond. If the material is cleaned well before applying, gorilla tape will last and be a great solution.

X2
I did some major repairs on mine early last year and Gorilla tape has been holding fine since.

I would suggest gorilla tape instead of eternabond. If the material is cleaned well before applying, gorilla tape will last and be a great solution.

firemedic1169 wrote:

skipnchar wrote:
I"ve seen the coroplast stapled, glued and screwed in place. If you know where you need to get to it may be easier to cut a working hole and piece the part you take out together again with Eternabond tape.

I'm beginning to think that this would be my easiest solution. I know exactly where I need to look and I can probably make due with a 1ft by 1ft hole then patch it back up.

Cut the hole on three sides only and use the 'front' side as a folded 'hinge'. That way when you tape it back up... even if the tape lets go you will have a 'flap' that tends to close while driving. It will also be easier to tape up since the cuts will line up and you can't lose it on the highway. Been there... done that.

skipnchar wrote:
I"ve seen the coroplast stapled, glued and screwed in place. If you know where you need to get to it may be easier to cut a working hole and piece the part you take out together again with Eternabond tape.

I'm beginning to think that this would be my easiest solution. I know exactly where I need to look and I can probably make due with a 1ft by 1ft hole then patch it back up.

I"ve seen the coroplast stapled, glued and screwed in place. If you know where you need to get to it may be easier to cut a working hole and piece the part you take out together again with Eternabond tape.

Doug33 wrote:
My dealer tech told me that I had to remove the underbelly material to get to the manual slideout crank. He said you needed to unscrew the material.

Do you have a Springdale? It seems every manufacturer does it a little different. There doesn't seem to be any screws that hold it in place. I tried pushing up on the underbelly where it lays on the metal cross-members where there are no screws and it is definitely attached by either a "sandwiched" method or adhesive.

My dealer tech told me that I had to remove the underbelly material to get to the manual slideout crank. He said you needed to unscrew the material.