Safety Chains

mkirsch wrote:
Shock cords don't make the chain any shorter.

If it's long enough to need shock cords to keep it off the ground, it's too long to safely do its job in the event of a disconnect.

Twisting the chain does make it functionally shorter, but compromises its design strength to a degree.

The "right" answer is to make the chain the proper length, but that is not so easily done if you are using multiple vehicles with vastly different chain length requirements. You can cut and cut and cut a chain but it will never get any longer. Sure you can use a double clevis to add length, but then you're fiddle-farting around with six cotter keys and six pins every time you switch vehicles.

I wonder if the extra stress on the long chains using shock cords is any worse than twisting them. In the event they are needed, the shock cord solution means the truck and trailer have slack to "get a run at it" before the chains pull taught. Not only that but the longer the chains, the more the trailer can divert from the path the vehicle is taking.

mkirsch wrote:

The "right" answer is to make the chain the proper length, but that is not so easily done if you are using multiple vehicles with vastly different chain length requirements.

That's my situation - there's three trailer I tow, and I have 3 trucks and two ball mounts. One of the ball mounts has an extended shank. the trucks and trailers get mixed amongst each other.

I have a set of the hooks I mentioned previously. I use them on one trailer. I haven't tried them for shortening the chains on the other trailers, so see if the pin will fit in a middle link of chain. If the chain is of a certain size, I can see that it won't fit, just like someone mentioned earlier.

When driving on uneven surfaces, my chains can drag. This may be when heading out to a boon docking site or a typical driveway approach. Don't discount the use of shock cords to keep the chains clear.

Shock cords don't make the chain any shorter.

If it's long enough to need shock cords to keep it off the ground, it's too long to safely do its job in the event of a disconnect.

Twisting the chain does make it functionally shorter, but compromises its design strength to a degree.

The "right" answer is to make the chain the proper length, but that is not so easily done if you are using multiple vehicles with vastly different chain length requirements. You can cut and cut and cut a chain but it will never get any longer. Sure you can use a double clevis to add length, but then you're fiddle-farting around with six cotter keys and six pins every time you switch vehicles.

deltabravo wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Physically shorten the chains to proper length.

There is a type of hook that you can easily remove from the chain to take up slack when shorter chains are needed.

This style of hook

ANy well equipped hardware store, famr and ranch supply, or even a tractor and equipment dealer will likely have these hooks.

I use these types of hooks with both my trailers, but they only fit in the last link of the chain. The idea of using shock cords to keep slack out of the chain seems like the best solution for trailers that have lower tongues.

I have also questioned twisting chain to take up slack and was always dismissed although I based my concern on tow strap experience with extractions off-road. My lighter trailer uses the same safety chains as my larger one - I don't have a concern twisting chain with my 3000 lb flat bed, but I do not want to test this on my 10,000 lb enclosed.

The working load limit on a 3/8" Grade 70 chain is 6600lbs. Breaking strength is 26,400lbs. You've got two of them. Together they're strong enough to hang any 10,000lb trailer by its tongue and bounce it up and down like a yo-yo.

The 500-1500 lbs referred to is only taking into account the tongue weight . In the event a hitch fails , which is what the safety chains are for you are trying to keep a 5000-10000 lb trailer attached to the tow vehicle under less than ideal conditions . I shutter to think of the forces involved . Most safety chains and hooks I've seen are under rated if anything .

Most chains on a hitch are usually over kill. Mine came with 3/8" grade 70 transport chain and a grade 70 grab hook like the picture above.
Mine are always twisted on my bumper pull trailers. I don't cut my chains to a certain length as I use different trucks with different type hitch/ball placements.
No more weight (500-1500 lbs) than the chain is carrying on a unhitched trailer its not going to break with twisted chains. Now if the OEM chains were undersized or owner replaced the chains with a cheaper lower grade 40 chain and a smaller diameter then its possible a chain can be broke from a break away condition.

Agree with old-biscuit and deltabravo. Have snapped a bunch of chains during my farm days mostly because the chains had two links twisted. Easy to tell when you find the busted piece bent over.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Physically shorten the chains to proper length.

There is a type of hook that you can easily remove from the chain to take up slack when shorter chains are needed.

This style of hook

ANy well equipped hardware store, farm and ranch supply, or even a tractor and equipment dealer will likely have these hooks.