Starting an overhaul on '77 Holiday Rambler Wide World

[djdawg]

I'm starting an overhaul on this baby and I realize it will be quite the project. It will be my first foray into trying to recondition a travel trailer but I'm looking forward to the challenge.

There will be lots of questions in the upcoming months so I guess I will start with this. It looks like the wall thermostat for the heat/furnace is missing....I do have paperwork on it and it WAS a Cam Stat T17H or TM17H (not sure which...the manual has both printed on it) so are there special RV thermostats or can I just pick one up at the hardware store?

While I'm at it - and a related question - I found the furnace and it looks like it has new duct work. There is one hose that goes from the furnace to a louvered vent cover which I assume is my main source of heat but I saw another hose that comes out the other side of the furnace and it just runs underneath the dinette benches and just ends there. Like it's just laying there - an open hose, which I'm sure isn't correct...any thoughts on that would be great. I'm wondering if it's supposed to blow heat into the bathroom? At any rate if I don't end up using it I would think I should seal that off because just having a hose blow heat into a bench compartment doesn't seem like a good idea.

[bcrewcaptain]

been there, done that.






Like westend said, just take your time and don't get overwhelmed.

$15 bucks in lumber and a handful of screws will keep you busy all weekend.
Another quick tip..PL construction adhesive is a wonderful thing.

here is a link to my junk that I did the refurb on. Shoestring budget, I still don't have 2K into it

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1092236-camper-budget-build-2-1976-shasta.html

[westend]

Just keep gutting. You'll end up pulling all the stuff, anyway to fix the floor.

Plan on replacing the rotted frame pieces with new stuff. The few ceiling joists I had that were rotten were fixed by ledgering on new tails to the bottom chord of the truss and fastening to the wall top plate. You can find a picture in the Cowboy/Hilton thread in my signature line.

A project like this seems too big and costly at the start. Just take it at a moderate pace, fixing certain areas at a time. Don't get discouraged at the "big picture". If money is tight, look around for pieces you can get free or at a bargain. I tried to keep a steady pace because I was certain that if I stopped in mid-restoration, the whole thing might not get done. You're the boss so set your time accordingly.

We'll be here for 'ya with advice and encouragement. The really cool thing is that you get to rebuild the trailer to your needs and if you do a good job, it will be a better rig when you're done than when it left the factory. I have no regrets.

[djdawg]

Ok....this could be bad. 😮 I tore off most of the ceiling and some of the wall....this is what I found. Check out the videos....

http://youtu.be/IvxMZOo4_1Y

http://youtu.be/sXOy7FBIwnY

I need thoughts. Keep these things in mind when sharing with me...

What I do have:
Time
Patience
Elbow grease
SOME knowledge on how to do things but haven't remodeled an RV or built a house...but I am eager to learn.

What I DON'T have:
A lot of $

I don't mind that it's a project....I don't mind how long it might take. I just don't want to be paying more $ by the time it's all said and done as opposed if I leveled the whole thing and started from scratch. Keep what I can (maybe even the aluminum?) and build it from the beginning. The thought of that seems overwhelming but maybe I can do it....

[bcrewcaptain]

looks like you're in for some work.
Westend and the others have already stated, there is a lot that you're going to find that you can't see yet.
It took me a whole winter to get my '76 Shasta in useable condition. And that was repairing/replacing with working items, and not trying to source/refurb parts that were"time correct"
That being said, there is a minimal investment for a lot of that, most of your parts can come from a big box store, for a small price. The elbow grease is what adds up, and find a friend that's handy and a good set of wood clamps.

Honestly, looking at your pics, it would be borderline if I would take it on as a project, that whole floor will turn out to be shot, the lower couple feet of most of the uprights, certainly the corners, and expect a number of the roof joists to need replacing as well. You'll have that thing down to the shell in no time, and I can say from experience, water damaged cabinets and such never go back like you hope. I'll be following this one, good luck.

[djdawg]

See I learn something everyday here with you folks! : ) It sounds like the white hoses are for potable water. .. works for me.

I think what I'm going to find out this week that I will probably end up tearing out the shower all together.

[westend]

Hoses, pick your poison. I've drank water out of the worst and lived to tell the tale but I can't imagine all that rubber or plastic taste is good for a guys health. A 25' white hose at Camping World is still around $10-$15, on sale, IIRC.

The thing about the on-demand heaters (gleaned from Internet posts, never owned one) is that they cycle so you may be showering with intermittent cold/lukewarm or hot water. When I was looking at upgrading my old 6 gal heater with a new one, there were Suburban dual electric/gas being sold on E Bay for around $275. Single source propane replacements could probably be had cheaper. I would be looking at RV salvage yards for a good deal.

[djdawg]

Ahh....I've drank out of hoses my whole life - I have no problem with it. : )

So the on demand heater I'm talking about - they are the small ones that come with a shower attachment - I think they'd be prefect for boondocking because they run off 12 volt and propane. But I'll price the actual replacement one first for sure...

[uzikaduzi]

djdawg- i'm nervous about messing with a hose that doesn't say it's for potable water use for the fresh water... i don't know about the new ones i see on tv but i had an older one that worked fine for around the house where i wasn't drinking the water. on the hot water issue, if there wasn't much of a cost difference i'd replace it with a 6 gallon one. i've used the small electric on demand water heaters and they worked well but it would limit you're ability to bondock it. the bigger ones are pricey and i'm a cheap skate.

[djdawg]

Funny random thought....how many RV'ers use an expanding hose in their rig set up/storage and if not, why not? Those things look cool!

[djdawg]

BarneyS wrote:

djdawg wrote:
Snip...is it customary for cold water to run through the hot water heater?

Sure. Before you turn on the heater! :W :B
Barney

Holy crap... I can't believe I asked that. Do I win an award for asking the dumbest question on this board? Lol

[BarneyS]

djdawg wrote:
Snip...is it customary for cold water to run through the hot water heater?

Sure. Before you turn on the heater! :W :B
Barney

[djdawg]

Thanks westend! It seems to be seeping out from the bottom. And seeing how much rust is on it while looking in the outside panel I guess that shouldn't be too surprising. One thing I may have forgot to mention was that when I was doing all the testing in running water through the system I only ran cold water...is it customary for cold water to run through the hot water heater?

[westend]

djdawg wrote:
Ok you guys have me lost....lol. The only reason I was considering an on demand type of water heater (like those smaller Eccotemp type) is because mine is leaking...from the bottom. I'm assuming from rust.

So...first things first...can they be fixed? I'd like to do this the most economical way whether it's pressure tank or something that replaces the one I have now or ??

We were discussing fresh water tanks and pumps in the previous posts. The benefits and detriments of the two most common systems-pressurized steel tank and compressor or plastic tank and demand fresh water pump. Has little to do with water heaters, sorry.

As I posted, I would replace the leaking water heater with another 6 gallon tank type. Look on Ebay or Craigslist for a replacement. It is not cost effective to try and repair a leaking hot water heater if the tank has failed. You should look to see if the water is coming out of the pressure relief valve or tank drain before you pull it. The relief valve can be replaced.

[SprinklerMan]

dont bother trying to fix the tank , get the on demand pump and be done