Sway Problem / Need Help

[mikeratz]

I am towing a 253RB Sunset Trail(30') with a F150 Ecoboost and am having a hard time with it if there is ANY wind at all.
For the most part it tows ok on a calm day but if there is any wind at all it feels very unstable in the back end and reduce speed considerably / "white knuckling" it.
I am using a Anderson hitch which I am debating on changing out with something that can transfer the weight better. I also added a Roadmaster suspension kit to the truck to help take some of the squat out.
I used this hitch on my last Sunset trailer which was a foot bigger so figured it would be fine. (Although we never had it long so maybe just never noticed) Tow vehicle then was a 2015 F150 Ecoboost with Goodyear airbags.

Current Setup
Trailer
2019 Sunset 253RB
Dry Weight 5531#
Loaded 6700#

2019 F150 Ecoboost
levelling kit
275/65R18 'E' Rated Duratracs
Roadmaster Active Suspension

Truck Only - 6063#
Front Axle 3395#
Rear Axle 2668#
GVWR 7850#
GAWR F-3750#
GAWR R-4800#

Truck & Trailer Combined
Front Axle 3110#
Rear Axle 3924#
Trailer Axles 5710#

I can't get all the sag out and am wondering if the Anderson is just too light for this setup and possibly what is causing it to feel unstable as well.

Any thoughts, hitch recommendations??

[Slowmover]

An Andersen shouldn’t ever be considered if a WDH is needed. It isn’t one.

Of the obsolete hitch types (non-Hensley patent) the original WDH is still the best. The Reese Dual Cam. (An Equalizer IS NOT in its class).

The DC takes more time to first set up — and benefits again by adjustment from significant weight changes to vehicles — that “sensitivity” pays.

A 4WD pickup with a lift kit describes the worst possible tow vehicle.

In the same way, a TALL conventional travel trailer (slides) on leaf springs — a box without aero design — is the worst of its type.

The combination isn’t worth owning, IMO. Not if one really wants to travel.

The pickup when loaded for camping and with passengers SHOULD BE close to 50/50 in weight distribution BEFORE hitching. (Cat Scale proof).

The purpose of WD is to re-distribute TW approximately 1/3-13-1/3: Steer, Drive, Tandem. Ideally it shows the solo truck Steer value and Hitched (tensioned) Steer value as the same. The Drive ought to then be 10% greater than Steer when finished.

Tires are inflated to the load value pressure. No higher. TT tires to sidewall max.

Better than stock shock absorbers a requirement. Even a brand new truck.
The trailer needs them also, but changing to Dexter Torflex axles the best way forward.

The pickup bed WILL move against the suspension. A Panhard Rod is a GREAT addition. And/Or upsizing anti-roll bar size one step, front and rear.

Braking tests are mandatory. Properly hitched, the combined rig should stop FASTER than the loaded TV, solo.

Contributor Ron Gratz posted a Three Pass Scale Method back in 2010. That’s the minimum. The start. THERE IS A RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT FOR A GIVEN COMBINED RIG. Need to know both ends of it.

.

[OleManOleCan]

Not To Simple answer... More truck... Tow with a F-250 or Chevy 2500 and you will see a difference. I tried my camper behind an F-250, I eventually traded for one.

My Solution... Buy something like an Equalizer with 1200# bars.
Install it yourself. Plenty of videos to teach you how.
Add a sway bar... Lots of problems will disappear.
When you tow, load up your tires to 60-65 lbs. A stiffer tire helps.

Can't do squat about the wind. It will push your wind catcher around.
I got in a strong cross wind situation coming home from the Smoky Mts. I was on I-24. My solution was to get off the Interstate and drive 2 lane black top, back to Alabama. There are enough trees and buildings to serve as kind of a wind break. The guys are right that tell you the set up is wrong, and you have too much weight on the hitch.
BTW: An F-150 HD with an Equalizer will tow that trailer just fine if it is set up correctly.

[TomG2]

Borrow or rent a F-250 to find out how enjoyable towing can be. Much more stable platform, even for a 6,500 pound trailer. Or, keep changing hitches, tires, suspension, etc. until you find something workable.

[mordecai81]

I used an Andersen with our former TT with a 600lb tongue weight and it worked great. Our new TT has an 1100lb TW and the Andersen couldn't transfer enough weight so got an Equalizer with 1200lb bars and it is perfect, both for sway and weight transfer. I would guess 1200lb bars would be what you need.

[camp-n-family]

By your calculations your Andersen hitch isn’t transferring enough weight which is a known problem with tongue weights over 600lbs. An Equil-I-zer hitch with 1200lbs bars would likely solve a lot of your problems.

[ppine]

Weight distribution hitch and a sway bar.
Go back to stock rake.

[GrandpaKip]

Sounds like that is too much for the Andersen. Most of the recommendations I’ve seen are for a max tongue weight of 800# or so.

[jerem0621]

mikeratz wrote:
I appreciate all the feeback!
So as originally thought, it sounds like I should spring for a new WDH.

From the reviews I looked at I like the Equalizer. It's also a lower profile and my trailer is fairly low (the Reece dual cam does hang down a bit. Had one a few trailers ago)

Should I go with the 1200#?? 1400# would allow more weight options but would it give up ride quality when running less load?

Also according to the Equalizer website you only add behind the axle cargo weight? (I've always used all passengers and truck cargo)

Thanks for putting up with all my questions...:S

No worries at all, this is a helpful group of people.

I suggest making a trailer tongue scale (bathroom scale method) and use it for EVERY POSSIBLE SITUATION.

I weighed my TW with the trailer nearly empty, I weighed it will full grey water tanks (behind the axles on my trailer) ... and then I did a worst case scenario. I added full fresh water (50 gallons in front of the axles) with empty gray and black tanks WITH NOTHING loaded behind the axles.

I also had the hitch head latched into the coupler and hanging with the entire hitch on the tongue for accurate weights.

Yes you also count cargo weight behind the TV axle. I just make it a rule that nothing goes behind the TV axles. Load the camper and not the TV.

Also, if you weigh your tongue weight under the jack like I did you need to multiply that number by .95 to get a close approximation to what the weight is at the coupler.

I did my math and took a screen shot on my phone and scribbled some reference notes on it.

Here are some crude pics and screen shots I took when weighing. Yea I know it should be on concrete but I don’t have any and I’ve done this for years and double checked via a cat scale that this works pretty good.







Thanks, and JMHO

Jeremiah

[mikeratz]

I appreciate all the feeback!
So as originally thought, it sounds like I should spring for a new WDH.

From the reviews I looked at I like the Equalizer. It's also a lower profile and my trailer is fairly low (the Reece dual cam does hang down a bit. Had one a few trailers ago)

Should I go with the 1200#?? 1400# would allow more weight options but would it give up ride quality when running less load?

Also according to the Equalizer website you only add behind the axle cargo weight? (I've always used all passengers and truck cargo)

Thanks for putting up with all my questions...:S

[jerem0621]

Is your new trailer taller than your old one? We just bought a new TT and it’s 11 ft 2 inches tall. It’s a FOOT taller than my last camper. Let me tell you the wind buffeting is more noticeable from passing rigs and wind.

I double checked my tongue weight and I am well in range of my payload and receiver (I actually weighed it in various configurations)

Also, I have a round bar hitch with dual sway control. I am totally comfortable towing. I am not one to expect to never feel the camper. As a matter of fact I appreciate being able to feel what it it doing some back there. But it’s never out of control or feeling like I’m white knuckling it. My wife sitting right next to me can’t even feel it.

As far as the Andersen, I have my doubts with its benefits approaching the 700-1200 lb tongue weight range. I’d spring for a traditional spring par style WD hitch and dual friction sway control.

JMHO based on experience.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[opnspaces]

mikeratz wrote:

opnspaces wrote:
^ It's more accurate to add up the hitched front and rear axle weights. 3924 + 3110 = 7034 lbs on the axles This is the truck weight when hitched to the trailer.

You have 971 lbs hitch weight. Subtract the truck only weight from the hitched weight. 7034 - 6063 = 971 lbs tongue weight.

You lost 285 lbs from the front axle (3395 - 3110 = 285)

You gained 1,256 lbs on the rear axle. (3924-2668 = 1256)

Your tongue weight it 14.5 percent which you can find by using the tongue weight and the total loaded trailer weight. (971 / 6700 * 100 = 14.5% tongue weight)

With almost 300 lbs missing off the front axle I'm betting you're getting light steering more than actual sway of the trailer.

Unfortunately it looks like you're going to need a more stout weight distribution hitch like an Equal-i-zer ***Link Removed***
or a Reese Dual Cam ***Link Removed***
The leveling kit on the truck might be aesthetically leveling the truck. But it's doing nothing to transfer or re-distribute the weight which is what you really need.

Just reread this..Is the 970lb in your calculation not just the total weight added to the truck and not the actual tongue weight?

Yes it's the added weight. I was assuming you towed the trailer up to the scales and then made a few passes, truck alone, truck with trailer and trailer alone. If you did get all the weights at the same time then yes the added weight and the tongue weight are the same thing. The tongue weight is the amount of weight that the tow vehicle carries.

If however you're weights are from different days then yes the calculations can be off by a bit based on the current loading of the trailer.

[TomG2]

What is the rating on your receiver? Both with and without WD.

[mikeratz]

Thanks for all the feedback I have gotten so far. It is really helping out. :B

[mikeratz]

Lynnmor wrote:
Tell us the size, load range, air pressure, brand and tread style of your tires.

They are in the original post but they are:
275/65R18 'E' Rated Duratracs
I've ran everything from 35/40psi psi to max 75psi and haven't seen any improvement

[mikeratz]

opnspaces wrote:
^ It's more accurate to add up the hitched front and rear axle weights. 3924 + 3110 = 7034 lbs on the axles This is the truck weight when hitched to the trailer.

You have 971 lbs hitch weight. Subtract the truck only weight from the hitched weight. 7034 - 6063 = 971 lbs tongue weight.

You lost 285 lbs from the front axle (3395 - 3110 = 285)

You gained 1,256 lbs on the rear axle. (3924-2668 = 1256)

Your tongue weight it 14.5 percent which you can find by using the tongue weight and the total loaded trailer weight. (971 / 6700 * 100 = 14.5% tongue weight)

With almost 300 lbs missing off the front axle I'm betting you're getting light steering more than actual sway of the trailer.

Unfortunately it looks like you're going to need a more stout weight distribution hitch like an Equal-i-zer ***Link Removed***
or a Reese Dual Cam ***Link Removed***
The leveling kit on the truck might be aesthetically leveling the truck. But it's doing nothing to transfer or re-distribute the weight which is what you really need.

Just reread this..Is the 970lb in your calculation not just the total weight added to the truck and not the actual tongue weight?