Tahoe hitch height

archeofuturist wrote:
Question:

Is your Tahoe running as you hook up?

I'm dealing with a similar situation with a 2015 suburban.

It seems that if these vehicles are running, the auto leveling system kicks in and cancels the WD effectively removing weight from the front and causing the trailer to ride hi on the tounge.

My suggestion is to follow the GM instructions regarding the auto leveler and WD hitch. Back up to the trailer, then turn off the. While until the WD has you level and distributed properly. Then turn the Tahoe on again. The auto leveler won't need to do anything and your hitch should be working properly.


Please let me know how it goes. My rigs at the dealer until next week and can't investigate this in person. But I'll tell you, the auto level can create a scary towing situation with the WD if not configured properly.

I too have a tahoe (2007) with auto leveling. Maybe the systems are different from 2007-2011-2015, but I'm not sure auto leveling works in this way.

My understanding is that the vehicles rear height is determined by a level sensor. When this sensor reads that the level is not at it's predetermined spot (via how the truck is made at the factory), it turns on a compressor which inflates air bags (on mine they are built into the shocks) and returns the vehicle back to this predetermined height.

So by turning off the vehicle, loading it, adjusting WD bars, and then turning back on, the vehicle is just going to crank it right back up to that height.

To what the Op was asking however, the auto leveling is not making the trailer ride unlevel...its because the shank isn't dropped low enough.

On mine its dropped to the lowest position, and I need just a little bit longer one to make it work, but its not terribly high so I haven't bought one yet.

I still am not 100% sold on having the vehicle on or off while connecting. I have yet to find a definitive answer, and yet to prove one way is better than the other. I guess I can't wrap my head around adjusting the WDH bars with it off, because its going to change when it kicks in.

I had to purchase a longer drop shank when I bought my Suburban as well. The receivers on today's SUVs are integrated into the rear bumper/frame, which is higher than the generations before where a receiver bolted to the bottom of the frame and dropped below the bumper. My Reese Strait Line came with 54970 and I went to 63971. Make sure you have use a compatible brand because I do not believe they all have the same bolt spacing, like Equal-i-zer vs. Reese.

I have a Yukon Denali. I had to get the longer shank with more adjustment to get the trailer level with the truck. Worked out fine.

X2 on a longer shank. 1st,is your shank in the rise or drop position. If it is in the drop position, you will need a longer one.

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Weight_Distribution-pc-Shanks.aspx

You can purchase a longer shank that will give you a longer drop. I had to do the same. They're pretty pricy for a chunk of metal but if you need it you need it.

Question:

Is your Tahoe running as you hook up?

I'm dealing with a similar situation with a 2015 suburban.

It seems that if these vehicles are running, the auto leveling system kicks in and cancels the WD effectively removing weight from the front and causing the trailer to ride hi on the tounge.

My suggestion is to follow the GM instructions regarding the auto leveler and WD hitch. Back up to the trailer, then turn off the. While until the WD has you level and distributed properly. Then turn the Tahoe on again. The auto leveler won't need to do anything and your hitch should be working properly.


Please let me know how it goes. My rigs at the dealer until next week and can't investigate this in person. But I'll tell you, the auto level can create a scary towing situation with the WD if not configured properly.