Testing AC at home

[love2rvcamp]

We haven't camped in our trailer for almost 2 years. We have a trip,scheduled to MB in July. We just recently got the trailer back after having it repaired for a tree limb going through the roof. Had the trailer checked while there, wheel bearings, brakes and other maintenance items.

We want to make sure everything is in working order before getting so,far from home. We have turned on the frig and it cools, going to,connect water to make sure hot water heater works. We want to make sure the AC cools so my question would it be ok to turn air on (with everything else electric turned off) to just test that it cools. We have a 20amp circuit at the house would not run it long at all just enough to,know it comes on and cools. Planning on testing early on the morning so it is not crazy not.

Thanks

[PUCampin]

Passin Thru wrote:
Get an extension cord, a splitter and plug into 2 different circuits tying them into your 30 amp. That's how we do it. Then you have 40 AMP to 30.

:hUhhh, not quite sure how you are doing this exactly, but casually telling someone to do this is DANGEROUS.

If you are using an adapter box that plugs into the top and bottom of a standard duplex and has a 30a receptical, this is NOT giving you any more amperage because the duplex is fed from the same circuit. It is potentially dangerous because it may be wired as a split duplex with a multi-wire branch circuit.

If you are using some device that has 2 120v cords to plug into 2 different locations that both feed into a box with a 30A receptical, then it is home made. No commercial device does this because it is DANGEROUS! At best you are paralleling two 120V circuits, but the current will still take the path of least resistance and will not be ballanced resulting in most of the current being drawing from one circuit. Worst case is you plug into opposite legs and BOOM! Direct short across the 240. And if either cord is left unplugged you have what is known as a "suicide cord" with exposed prongs with live 120V.

I hope this is not what you are doing, there are other safer ways to accomplish what you want.

[Passin_Thru]

Get an extension cord, a splitter and plug into 2 different circuits tying them into your 30 amp. That's how we do it. Then you have 40 AMP to 30.

[Aluminum_Siding]

mine struggles at home. even with the tt cable (not an extension cord) Even if it struggles a little you can burn it up.

[PUCampin]

Claude B wrote:
@ PUCampain

Note I said the 120V receptical for the washer. If you have an electric dryer DO NOT attempt to plug into it. Electric dryer circuits are 240V NOT 120V. Until as recent as 1996 code permitted the installation of a 3 prong dryer receptical NEMA 10-30 which is a 240V 3 wire (hot / hot / ground). It looks A LOT like a NEMA TT-30r which is the 30A plug for trailers, also a 3 wire but 120V (hot / neutral / ground). With a little effort a it can be made to fit with disasterous results!

This is exactly what I did and it work perfectly well at least, here in Canada.
My dryer is 240V 30 amps so with two 120V hot, one neutral and the ground (4 wires and the electric motor and controls works on 120V). I use an old extension cord 4' long from an older dryer and I baught at Home Depot, a 120V 30 amps RV plug and a metal box. So I use one 120V hot, the neutral and the ground and cap the other 120V hot.

Just plug this adaptor in my dryer plug and my 30' extension of my TT.

Howerver, I don't know is US dryers works only on 240V, electric motor incl.

@Claude B

With a 4 wire it is possible to safely build an adapter, like you have done, but to my knowledge it is not commercialy available, and I would not recommend someone who is not intimately knowledgable attempt it. 🙂

Up until 1996 in the US it was still permissable to install a NEMA 10-30, which is a 3 wire hot/hot/neutral. It looks A LOT like the TT-30r with a ground on the bottom and 2 slanted blades, and people have been known to with just a little effort force their TT-30r into the 10-30, and zap. There is really no safe way to get 120V from a 3 wire 10-30 receptical due to no ground. Since 1996 all electric dryer outlets are 4 wire like yours, and many older homes are also 4 wire, but there is a distinct possibility of running into a 3 wire NEMA 10-30 on homes in the US.

[aluminum_flyer]

I plug mine into a 20A all the time. Works just fine on LOW COOL. Just don't use HIGH COOL.

[Claude_B]

@ PUCampain

Note I said the 120V receptical for the washer. If you have an electric dryer DO NOT attempt to plug into it. Electric dryer circuits are 240V NOT 120V. Until as recent as 1996 code permitted the installation of a 3 prong dryer receptical NEMA 10-30 which is a 240V 3 wire (hot / hot / ground). It looks A LOT like a NEMA TT-30r which is the 30A plug for trailers, also a 3 wire but 120V (hot / neutral / ground). With a little effort a it can be made to fit with disasterous results!

This is exactly what I did and it work perfectly well at least, here in Canada.
My dryer is 240V 30 amps so with two 120V hot, one neutral and the ground (4 wires and the electric motor and controls works on 120V). I use an old extension cord 4' long from an older dryer and I baught at Home Depot, a 120V 30 amps RV plug and a metal box. So I use one 120V hot, the neutral and the ground and cap the other 120V hot.

Just plug this adaptor in my dryer plug and my 30' extension of my TT.

Howerver, I don't know is US dryers works only on 240V, electric motor incl.

[love2rvcamp]

2012Coleman wrote:
Do you have a generator?

No we don't have one. We could rent one I guess if that would be a better alternative.

[2112]

No long extention cords unless it's 12AWG and you will be fine.

[2012Coleman]

Do you have a generator?

[love2rvcamp]

Thanks for all the replies. The 20 amp circuit is a dedicated one that we run the pool off. We are planning on unplugging the pool and plug going in the trailer. So,there would. OT be anything else on that circuit. Turning off all electric in the trailer. Also it is connected to a PI surge guard. Got to flip,switch one and watch it and just long enough to feel,the cool and shut it down.

[ksg5000]

You should be OK hooking up to a 20 amp outlet .. if you have to use an extension cord the shorter/fatter the better. Keep an eye on voltage when running the AC - if it drops below 109 volts turn off the Air Conditioner.

[Fastfwd75]

Mine will spin the fan on 15amp but will not start the compressor.
It will work just fine on 20amp.
To be extra safe check the voltage before and after you start the AC and the compressor kicks in. Make sure voltage is within norms(108-130 I think)

[PUCampin]

It depends on where you plug it in. Find a dedicated circuit or one with no load.

In my case, I normally plug in to the standard receptical on the side of my house, which is fine for everything EXCEPT the AC. I tried to start it one time and the voltage dropped too low and it would not start. Too long a wire run and too much on the circuit.

If I want to run my AC, I use a HD extension cord and plug into the washing machine outlet in my garage. By code for many years the 120V receptical for washers must be dedicated, even in my home built in 1981. Newer homes have other dedicated circuits now, but in mine the washer is the only one. With nothing else on that circuit, the AC fires right up and runs great.

Note I said the 120V receptical for the washer. If you have an electric dryer DO NOT attempt to plug into it. Electric dryer circuits are 240V NOT 120V. Until as recent as 1996 code permitted the installation of a 3 prong dryer receptical NEMA 10-30 which is a 240V 3 wire (hot / hot / ground). It looks A LOT like a NEMA TT-30r which is the 30A plug for trailers, also a 3 wire but 120V (hot / neutral / ground). With a little effort a it can be made to fit with disasterous results!

[ScottG]

Yes, it will run fine on 20A.